Car cranks but won't start

Tiny
JAG6492
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 138,000 MILES
01 civic cranks but won't start. It just started one morning with out any prior problems. Don't have spark in any of the cylinders. Fuel pressure is within specs. Connected noid light on each injector and none of them lights up when cranking the engine. Timing belt in good condition and not slipping. All fuses/relays in good condition(working). CMP sensor is about one year old. Compression is 130psi in 3 cylinders and about 110 in one. Jag. Auto. Tech@gmail. Com
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Friday, July 29th, 2011 AT 2:11 AM

24 Replies

Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Hello,

There are 2 PGM FI relays that need to be checked because it sounds like on of them is not working here is a guide to help you do some testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Here are the engine wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works and the relay and fuse locations which also should be checked.

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers
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Friday, July 29th, 2011 AT 2:35 AM
Tiny
JAG6492
  • MEMBER
Thanks, but Im stuck. The coil on plugs have 3 wires(power, ground, and v-ref). Its getting 12.54v to each plug and ground, but not spark. All I have left, I think, to check is the CKP and ECM. Oh, and what could be making the injectors to don't work neither? I gave it some thought and checked the PGM FI relay and it was hot to the touch so I replaced it now the engine started and runs great! Thanks for the diagrams.
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Friday, July 29th, 2011 AT 2:48 AM
Tiny
MADMANSVOID
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 183,000 MILES
I bought the car listed above EX in October. First off, I got my license on December 26th, 2019. I was working fine but then I stopped to get some food and I m sitting in the parking lot and then all of sudden I got a rough idle. It went away but then I started to drive and it would only go up to about 2,000 rpm and max out at about 20 mph. I coasted it home and turned it off. It then wouldn t start. It sounded like it was cranking but wouldn t start. I pulled the codes P1362 and P1361. I watched tutorials and did the repair and replaced the top dead center sensor that went bad. After doing that it started and was drive-able. But, when test driving it would stutter when shifting and would have a rough idle. I looked and we forgot to plug in the map sensor. We re-plugged it in and worked like new. I then drove it to a friends house for New Year s Eve and the next day and I go to leave but it wouldn t start. It sounded like it was cranking but not starting. We got the code reader and pulled the code P0108 which turned out to be the MAP sensor. After replacing that part it still wouldn t start. The next day we tried to see if it would start even using carburetor cleaner to see if that would help in anyway. It still would start so we towed my car about 5 miles or so to Belle Tire. They checked it and said the spark plugs were bad. They replaced them and it started and ran like a champ. The next day it started but sounded a little weary when starting. After a day of driving to work and back it was fine. The next day I went to go start it but it wouldn t. We then talked to Belle Tire and they said they couldn t do anything over the phone and we d have to tow it to them again. We then called my uncle who owns a mechanic shop in Utah and he said that it s a common issue with older Civic's that when starting you should hold down the accelerator and turn it on and it should start. Well we tried that and it worked. It started good for a couple days and I was able to go to school and what not. I then come out this morning to go to school but it would not start. We tried the trick of holding the accelerator down but it still wouldn t start. Sorry that it was a lot but I m just trying to figure out what could be wrong with it. Anything will help and I appreciate your responses. Also, we ve put in a new starter and a new battery. Thanks!
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

First, great job on your original diagnosis and fixing it yourself. Most people won't even try. As far as the new issue, do you check to see if there are diagnostic trouble codes again? I have a feeling it is related to the TDC sensor you replaced but before I start suggesting diagnosing those codes, let me know if they have returned.

Now, if it won't start with starting fluid, then my guess is there is no ignition spark to the plugs, so please confirm that for me. To get started, here are a couple links to help. First is the most common cause for a crank no start condition. The second explains how to test fuel pressure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Check for spark and to see if the diagnostic trouble codes returned and let me know what you find.

____________________

I decided to add the diagnostics for the original codes. Take a look through them and let me know if you feel comfortable following them'. The attached pics are of the connectors which indicate which pins are being checked.
___________________

2001 Honda Civic DX Sedan L4-1668cc 1.7L SOHC MFI
P1361
Vehicle ALL Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) Testing and Inspection P Code Charts P1361
P1361
DTC P1361: TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption

1. Reset the ECM/PCM.
2. Start the engine.

Is DTC P1361 and/or P1362 indicated?

YES - Go to step 3.

NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the TDC sensor and at the ECM/PCM.

3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4. Disconnect the TDC sensor 3P connector.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

pic 1

6. Measure voltage between TDC sensor 3P connector terminal No.3 and body ground.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 7.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay 1 and the TDC sensor

pic 2

7. Measure voltage between TDC sensor 3P connector terminal No.2 and body ground.

Is there about 5 V?

YES - Go to step 8.

NO - Go to step 10.

pic 3

8. Measure voltage between TDC sensor 3P connector terminals No.1 and No.3.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 9.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the TDC sensor and G101.

9. Substitute a known-good TDC sensor and recheck.

Is DTC P1361 and/or P1362 indicated?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

NO - Replace the original TDC sensor.

pic 4

10. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal A26 and body ground.

Is there about 5 V?

YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A26) and TDC sensor.

NO - Go to step 11.

11. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
12. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (31P).

pic 5

13. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A26 and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A26) and the TDC sensor.

NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

___________________________________

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PETERBIVEN
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • 130,000 MILES
Backed my car into the driveway to wash it and when I went to start it again the car just wouldn't start. It turns over but won't start. The green key light in the dash doesn't light up anymore at all. How do I fix this?
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • EXPERT
Hello,

This sounds like it could be a problem with your vehicle's immobilizer system. It could be a problem with the components being able to send information between them which is needed to start and run your vehicle. This guide will help you reset it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAZYSOPH@COMCAST.NET
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
I ran out of gas in my 01'honda civic EX, I put about 2 gallons of gas(i was told the gas could have been a little old) in and drove it less than a mile and it sputterd to a stoped. Now it won't start, even after putting about 5 more gallons of fresh gas. The engin sounds like it wants to but it just wont turn over. I checked the fuses they are ok. So what could it be?
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WILDCARD007
  • MEMBER
Did you ever figure out what was wrong?
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAZYSOPH@COMCAST.NET
  • MEMBER
YEP, I toed it to the honda dealership and the replaced the feul pump. So its back on the road. That is untill I get the parts for strut replacement. And engine mounts.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FRANNY275
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,000 MILES
My car wont start. The battery is not the problem though since the electrical components still run fine, I just cant get the engine to turn over and start
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHER1
  • MEMBER
Have you tried starting it in neutral?

Here is a guide that can help you see whats wrong.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know what happens.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRYAN08
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • MANUAL
  • 97,000 MILES
Hi guys, I have a crank but no start issue with my car. I bought the car not running green key light not turning on at all. I have no spark, no injector pulse did replace the crank sensor and still it will not give me spark and injector pulse. I suspected the it is the immobilizer unit went bad because the green key light not turning on at all. I borrowed my friends immobilizer unit from his car and install it on mine now the green key light keep flushing. Is it my immobilizer unit went bad? Am I on the right path? Can you guys help me on this? Thank you!
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Those are not interchangeable, they are programmed to each cars VIN and options coding. Just swapping one in that is incorrect can kill it.

The easiest way to be sure is to put a scan tool on it and query the module. BUT if it is the immobilizer you will be visiting the dealer to get the coding to program a replacement to make it work. No way around that now as the companies are getting real tight on the security systems.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRYAN08
  • MEMBER
Thanks for replying.I have a dtc P0113 intake air temp sensor circuit high. What your saying is. The ecu, immobilizer and my key need to bind to each other.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
P0113 intake air temp sensor circuit high - Check the wiring from the IAT to see if it is broken. The picture shows the sensor. It's a simple heat detecting resistor. They do fail but the wiring is the more common issue.

Yes, the key, ECU, immobilizer are all VIN linked. Basically most of the security systems in vehicles work the same way these days. Setting still the system shuts off the injectors or starter or both. When you get in and put the key in the ignition or get close to the car with the electronic key, the security system reads information from the key/ignition switch/transponder. Then it tells the ECM/PCM/ECU if the device is the correct one for the vehicle and that it can start the engine.
To make sure that stealing the vehicle isn't as easy as simply plugging in a different used module from a similar model, they also use the VIN or other security code to verify the components of the security system. They also code that number into other modules on the vehicle as well to make those useless if stolen.

For instance on many newer vehicles the dash, BCM, radio, ECM, ABS, Fuel pump control, and other modules, are all part of the system and are all coded against not only theft but even simple removal. Remove the factory radio from many cars these days and you lose the door and warning chimes, the memory seats/pedals/mirrors and on some the security system will shut the car down.
Want to swap out your base model instrument cluster for the super deluxe version? You need a dealer level scan tool and the factory coding to make it work.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVIDAMATO64
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 187,000 MILES
Have had no problems in the past. Today I went out to start my car this morning and it is cranking then starts for a few seconds then shuts right off. Do you have any information that can help me out?
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

There are many things that can cause this. Ignition components, fuel system components, sensors and so on can cause it. Take a look through this link. It describes common causes and how to check.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

See if anything helps in the link. To be honest, based on your description, it sounds like a low fuel pressure issue. With that being said, I suggest checking fuel pressure to the engine. Here is a link showing in general how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for testing. You will need a fuel pressure gauge. I realize most people do not have one, but most times, most parts stores will lend or rent one to you. The attached picture correlates with these directions.

________________________________________

COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
Fuel Pressure Test

Special Tools Required
- Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A
- Fuel pressure gauge attachment set 07AAJ-S6MA150

1. Relieve the fuel pressure.

(see pic 1)

2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and fuel pressure gauge.
3. Start the engine, and let it idle.
- If the engine starts, go to step 5.
- If the engine does not start, go to step 4.

4. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel fill port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on.
- If the pump runs, go to step 5.
- If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting.

5. Read the pressure gauge. The pressure should be 270-320 kPa (2.8-3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40-47 psi)
- If the pressure is OK, the test is complete.
- If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then recheck the fuel pressure.

________________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
VEGUITA3
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 237,000 MILES
Just did an engine swap and have everything hooked up. Car won't start unless OBDII scanner is attached. If car is running and OBDII scanner is detached then car dies. When car is running at idle, it lopes (approx. 400 RPM lope) but runs fine at >2800 RPMs Getting an IAC (P0505) fault. Cleaned IAC and reassembled. No change. Please help. Not much hair left to pull out.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • EXPERT
If you hold the throttle open a bit, will the vehicle start and run fine?
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
VEGUITA3
  • MEMBER
Seems to run fine at 2800 rpms and higher but still won't start without the OBDII scanner hooked up. And, as soon as I unplug it, it quits.
I pulled the IACV off and turned the key to on. It seems to be ok but I am not totally sure what I am looking for. It moved and I could feel a slight vibration in the solenoid of it. Pulled the throttle body off and made sure the passages were clean (they were).
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)

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