Otherwise you mean it will crank but not start? Has the Check Engine light been coming on? If so, have you read the diagnostic fault codes?
I don't know if this applies, but it's worth mentioning. It was somewhat common for the dowel pin between the camshaft and sprocket to shear off, and the sprocket would spin slightly on the camshaft. This would mimic a timing belt that jumped a tooth. The Engine Computer would know that from seeing the change in the relationship between the signals from the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors.
When it looks as though the timing belt jumped one tooth, the computer turns on the Check Engine light and sets a fault code related to "cam and crank sync". At two teeth off, the computer shuts the engine down to prevent internal damage. At three teeth off, open valves will hit the pistons as the engine coasts to a stop and would be bent.
There is a procedure to relearn the relationship between the two sensors when one is replaced. It requires the DRB3 scanner, but I've never actually had to do that. The computer always learned the relationship as soon as the ignition switch was turned on, and the engine started right away.
Is it possible the fuel pump isn't starting up? 80,000 miles is a little soon for worn brushes in the motor, but you might have a helper try banging on the bottom of the fuel tank while you're cranking the engine.
Woops, I see you listed no spark or fuel. That would sure lead to the sensors you replaced. To prevent overlooking something simple but unlikely, try switching the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay with one of the other ones, but next I think I would send you to the dealer to ask if it's necessary to perform the cam / crank sync relearn procedure. I suspect the sitting with the ignition switch turned on for 15 minutes will be an important clue.
Friday, March 24th, 2017 AT 11:06 AM