Changed the thermostat and the mickey mouse radiator cap cus it broke. The car got so hot the o ring seal wouldn't come loose so it broke. Bought a new thermostat and pulled the old one. Old one looked brand new. The car after driving about 10 miles when you stop the water gurgles and then comes out the overflow tube. The temp gauge never gets past half. I have checked the hoses they seem brand new. I think I'm getting flow, cant tell for sure. None of the hoses feel like there is a blockage. The car is immaculate with 88,000 mi The water pump doesn't make any noise
-Could be air in it try bleeding it -if it continues have it block and pressure tested to find out more what's going on.
August, 20, 2011 AT 4:25 AM
How do you do that? I have had the car for two weeks. What would have caused the air to get in it? I know I didn't fill the coolant through the top of the thermostat manifold after I changed out the thermostat. Should I have? Oh and BTW the Stant thermostat wont seat in the housing. I had to file the strut inside for it to work. The car performed well for a week then it started overflowing. The people I bought it from delivered it 75 miles away and no problems. I'm pretty handy with cars but this one is a pain. My son in laws is a drive way mechanic as well and he an together cant figure this one. Why does the temp gauge only go to half and never move. Tuesday it was hissing pretty bad so I had it towed. The temp gage never moved past half. And believe me it was hot
I did the. One final question you didn't say anything about the temp gauge. Any reason why it doesn't move past 1/2. Also there is discussion on the fans not turning fast enough, Apparently there is high and low settings. The fans do come on but how would I know if they are on high, And could that be the problem?
September, 20, 2011 AT 11:17 PM
Air in the system around the temperature sensor probe can cause the gauge to not read properly. A head gasket leaking from the combustion chamber can also cause the coolant to be forcibly expelled from the cooling system at low engine temperatures. You need to have the blocked checked for internal cracks. This can be done using a chemical you can buy at a parts store, or in a pinch, by putting a balloon or plastic bag over the radiator opening and starting the engine. If the balloon or bag fills, there is a leak from the combustion chamber to the cooling system, either in the block or in the head gasket.
September, 20, 2011 AT 11:30 PM
The problem was the two tubes going to the little tank where the cap is were reversed. So fluid was heating up sending fluid to the tank above the cap and then out to the overflow tank. I found out its a common mistake as the tubes look like they shouldn't be crossed but they are. I couldn't find a picture anywhere. A simple picture of the tank on top would have told me. Instead I spent $250 parts and labor for senseless trial and error. Apparently the dummy that worked on the car before I bought it switched them. As long as it wasn't hot outside nothing happened. This is posted on a Jag info line.
September, 20, 2011 AT 11:53 PM
Thank you for letting us know you were able to resolve this issue. Sorry we weren't able to provide enough information to be of better assistance.
August, 26, 2013 AT 12:58 AM
Had the same problem and the solution was to reverse to pipe connections. Problem solved : -)