XJ8L just clicks when trying to start Ok.

Tiny
ANONYMOUS
  • 1998 JAGUAR XJ8
  • 98,000 MILES

XJ8L just clicks when trying to start
Ok this one is really bazar. A week ago my car wouldnt start. It clicked and when I reset the key it started. The a few days later it did the same thing. Then 3 days ago my 1998 XJ8L wouldn’t start at all. I called my shop that works on it and they summoned a tow truck. All I would get is a click in the area of the glove box. My mechanic pulled the starter and tried to motorize it on the bench. It wouldn't turn over so we put in a rebuilt starter. I picked up the car later that day and drove it around with no issues. The next day I had to run some errands. I made three quick stops and then went to the grocery store. Up till now the car started every time. I spent one hour in the store came out and it would only click. Had to have a tow to the shop again. The shop was closed so it sat over night. The next morning the mechanic, and I thinking it was a relay, was going to work on it and it started right up. He spent 4 hours trying to make it malfunction so he could diagnose the problem. We even moved the relays around thinking if it was a relay we would put the relay in the air conditioning place and move that one to the starter place. 4 to 5 attempts in 4 hours and every time it starts. Even when I picked it up it fired right up. So I pick it up at 12:30 and drive home. 2 hours later I go out and it will only click. Called the mechanic and we decide to reset the computer by disconnecting the positive lead. After 10 minutes I connected the lead and the car starts. I even shut it off and it fired right up. Here is where the bazaar part comes in. I let the car set for about a half an hour after it started and I try to start it and it just clicks again. I disconnect the positive lead and let it set for 10 minutes like before and now it will not start. Just clicks. I have jiggled the shift lever in hopes it might be the neutral safety switch but that doesn't do anything. Any Ideas?

Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 12:34 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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OTHER TECHS MAY JUMP IN AND HELP

I WAS ABLE TO FIND A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THE "STARTING CIRCUIT"

MAYBE IT WILL SHOW SOMETHING THAT YOU HAVE NOT CONSIDERED

I KNOW HOW EXPENSIVE PARTS CAN BE (I JUST LOOKED UP THE NEUTRAL SAFETY) SHOULD YOU NEED SOMETHING..........

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_neutral-safety-switch-bwd_18971405-p?searchTerm=neutral+safety+switch#

DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU LIVE, "ADVANCE AUTO PARTS" MAY BE AVAILABLE TO YOU. PROMO CODE "A124" WILL SAVE YOU THE MOST (EXPIRES AT THE END OF THE MONTH)----IF THEY ARE NOT IN YOUR REGION, A SIMILAR METHOD MAY WORK AT ANOTHER STORE

IF YOU WANT TO KNOW HOW IT WORKS.....AND HOW TO MAKE IT WORK TO YOUR ADVANTAGE...SEE MY ANSWER IN THE LINK BELOW

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

KEEP US POSTED...MORE QUESTIONS...GRIPES

THE MEDIC

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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 1:25 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Have the battery tested.

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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 9:35 AM
Tiny
WESTWAY
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The battery is just fine! To add to the frustration after attempting all of the above I went to my grandsons Bday party last night. The car sat for 6 hours. When I came home it started right up. I shut it off and started it in neutral. Wouldn't that dispelled the neutral safety switch? As for ground connections we have checked all those already. Could this have anything to do with the body control? I understand it controls the anti theft mechanism. If so where is it located?

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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 12:58 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intermittent_fault

COULD BE MIGHT NEAR ANYTHING......NOTHING MANMADE IS PERFECT----RULE NUTHIN' OUT

BATTERY ......POWER FROM.....SORTA THE SAME THING.....CHECK THIS OUT

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

I DON'T KNOW JUST HOW MECHANICAL/ ELECTRICAL YOU ARE......WITH OLD NEUTRAL SAFETY'S, YOU COULD SIMPLY BYPASS THE NEUTRAL SAFETY OUT OF THE EQUATION........NOT THAT SIMPLE THESE DAYS. IF YOU HAD WIRE DIAGRAMS YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO SEE WHAT "ALL OF THE WIRES" ON IT'S CONNECTOR DO/GO TO

THIS PART, AND OTHERS ARE NOT SOMETHING YOU CAN AFFORD TO "THROW A PART AT" TO RULE IT OUT----MAYBE AN INEXPENSIVE AUTO SALVAGE YARD SPECIAL, NOT SOMETHING NEW

PARTS STORES FROWN ON YOU "TRIAL AND ERRORing" THEIR PARTS....THEN ATTEMPTING TO RETURN A THEN "USED PART" THAT DIDN'T SOLVE THE PROBLEM.

YOU CAN'T BLAME 'EM, SOMETHING MIS-WIRED OR SHORTED THEN PLUGGED ONTO A NEW $300 SENSOR MIGHT SHELL OUT THE SENSOR......AND "YOU" STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM.....THE AUTO STORE IS NOW OUT $300

I GET THE SAME RESULTS WHEN I LEND OUT "SPECIAL TOOLS" OR EVEN AN ANVIL----THEY GET USED THE WRONG WAY, AND ARE NOW USELESS WHEN RETURNED

UNRELATED HERE'S ANOTHER "INTERMITTENT" PIC----THIS THING IDLED ALL DAY LONG AND WOULD NOT OVERHEAT.........DRIVE IT AND IT WAS IMMEDIATELY OVERHEATING........PLASTIC IS JUNK!

KEEP US POSTED

THE MEDIC

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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 3:27 PM
Tiny
WESTWAY
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I hear what your saying. I have been involved in the automotive ind. For 40 years and know just enough to be dangerous. You're right on with your post. However after saying that Im still waiting for some specific advice on my specific problem. I just went out to the garage and the car starts fine, no issues. I will take it to get gas later this morning that way I wont have to shut it off. Then drive back to the house and shut it off to see if it does what its been doing. This one has me and my mechanic scratching our heads for sure. Maybe I'll get better advice when the work week starts

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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 3:51 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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You will need to test the voltage at the starter with the meter when it won't start. This problem sounds like a loose connection. Good luck thank you for using two car pros will be here.

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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
WESTWAY
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Sound like good advice. The shop is yet to have the car when it malfunctions. I presume you mean check the voltage when the key is turned to the start position and nothing happens right? Assuming the connections are making good contact. If there is no voltage coming to the starter what do we look for then?

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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
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Yes you are correct. Or when it won't start holding key start position and tap The starter with a hammer possibly you have a bad Armature. They need to check the car until they can duplicate the condition you're having no matter how long it takes. Intermittent problems are a real bitch.

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Monday, March 11th, 2013 AT 1:10 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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SORTA WHAT I'VE BEEN SAYING ALL ALONG!

ATTACK THE CONNECTIONS!

I SENT YOU A DIAGRAM BEFORE. CAN YOU READ IT?

MY GUESS IS THE STUFF ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE DIAGRAM. STARTER RELAY ITSELF, OR THE CONNECTIONS TO IT.A BAD STARTER, OR THE CONNECTIONS TO IT

WHEN IT'S IN A "NO START" CONDITION---UNHOOK THE RED/WHITE WIRE FROM THE LITTLE TERMINAL

THE PIC BELOW MAY "RULE IN" OR "RULE OUT" THE STARTER WITHOUT TAKING IT OFF

AFTER THE TEST, HOOK THE WIRE BACK ON AND SEE IF IT'S STILL A "NO START" WITH THE KEY

YOU CAN ALSO CHECK FOR FULL VOLTAGE AT THE BIG NUT----AND VOLTAGE AT THE LITTLE ONE WHILE SOMEONE TURNS THE KEY TO "START"

WATCH OUT FOR THOSE EVIL PESKY MOVING ENGINE PARTS. SHOULD IT BUST OFF DURING THE TESTS!

THE MEDIC

IF YOU HAD A WILLYS---YOU COULD USE THE STARTER/ PUSH START IT/ OR SIMPLY HAND CRANK IT AS MY DAUGHTER (THEN AT 10 YEARS OF AGE) DEMONSTRATES WHEN SHE LEARNED TO DRIVE

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Monday, March 11th, 2013 AT 1:38 AM
Tiny
WESTWAY
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This morning someone on the jag forum suggested that the anti theft transponder could be the problem. Or in his case it was the transponder ring in the steering wheel. His symptoms were similar to mine. Id like to hear from a Jag mechanic on this one. Is this a possibility? Where is the unit located? How do you check the unit or the sending coil (ring) I can get both on eBay but I need to know how to check if either of these is the culprit.

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Monday, March 11th, 2013 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
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Exactly cj

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Tuesday, March 12th, 2013 AT 12:53 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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DO THE VOLTAGE TEST! IF IT WAS THE ALARM U WOULD HEAR NOTHING. GOOD LUCK ALL BUT I AM MOVING ON TO GREENER PASTURES.

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Tuesday, March 12th, 2013 AT 1:12 AM
Tiny
WESTWAY
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Update: After 10 days and no malfunctions here is what I have concluded. Thinking back now when this started then coolant reservoir developed a leak. It started leaking out of the bottom where the sensor plugs in. It would drip onto the exhaust manifold near the steering shaft. Steam would come up around the hood and I would relive the pressure and the drip would go away. I ordered a new tank and 10 days ago I pulled the old one and installed the new one. This is when then starting issues have apparently ceased. Can anyone explain this as the tank is on the opposite side of all the electronics and the starter. Right now I'm just happy the car starts but would like to know why. Is there something under the hood that is sensitive to condensation to cause the problem.

Thanks

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Sunday, March 24th, 2013 AT 1:07 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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This is bizarre and I can't think of anything that can cause such problems.

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Sunday, March 24th, 2013 AT 6:44 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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BACK IN '76SIS WAS "SPOTA" TAKE ME TO A BICENTENNIAL FUNCTION AT SCHOOL. I WAS IN THE FIFTH GRADE. (AND SUCH A BRIGHT YOUNG LAD WAS I !!!)

HER 1973 GREMLIN....SUCH A SIMPLE CAR, WITH THAT BEAUTIFUL "258" INLINE 6, HAD BEEN HAVING SOME "NO START ISSUES" FOR MAYBE TWO MONTHS.............MOST OF THE TIME, IT'D FIRE RIGHT UP, OTHER TIMES IT WOULD NOT

IF IT HAD RAINED----IT USUALLY WOULD REQUIRE A BOOST.......BUT IT WOULD BUST OFF AND RUN

...............WELL NOT THIS TIME

MY DAD WAS NOT A BIG AUTOMOTIVE KINDA GUY.......BUT THE BATTERY AND CLAMPS WERE TEXTBOOK CLEAN........IT HAD RAINED.......THE 150 YEAR OLD NEIGHBOR LADY PROVIDED THE BOOST USING HER OLD PLYMOUTH VALIANT............NOTHIN' !

WHILE MESSING AROUND WITH THIS......AND COMPLETELY MISSING THE FUNCTION AT SCHOOL, MY UNCLE WAS CALLED OVER TO ASSIST, SINCE MY DAD WAS AT WORK

WITHIN TWO MINUTES---IT WAS UP AND RUNNING---WITHOUT A BOOST

I CANNOT THINK OF ANY OTHER TIME IT WOULD NOT START AFTER THAT

HE GOT IN THERE AND GAVE IT "THAT TOUGH LOVE"..............AS I LINKED YOU TO IN THE BEGINNING OF THIS POST

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

...........USING DIELECTRIC GREASE NEVER HURTS EITHER!!!

THERE WAS MILD CORROSION (REALLY JUST DIRTY LOOKING TERMINAL RINGS) ON THE RINGS THAT STACKED UP AGAINST THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE ON THE SOLENOID

USING MY BABY, "WILLY", AS AN EXAMPLE ---- THIS WOULD BE THE CONNECTIONS ON "TERMINAL A"

1) POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE

3) POWERS EVERYTHING IN THE FUSE BOX

4) GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

I BUILT AND WIRED "WILLY" PRETTY MUCH FROM NOTHING---"3" AND "4" ARE FUSIBLE LINKS

DAMPNESS "CAN MESS UP" AN ALREADY "LACKING CONNECTION"

THE MEDIC

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Sunday, March 24th, 2013 AT 2:51 PM

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