Will not start just clicks when trying to start

Tiny
ANONYMOUS
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 JAGUAR XJ8
  • 98,000 MILES
Okay this one is really bazaar. A week ago my car wouldn't start. It clicked and when I reset the key it started. The a few days later it did the same thing. Then 3 days ago my car (XJ8L) wouldn’t start at all. I called my shop that works on it and they summoned a tow truck. All I would get is a click in the area of the glove box. My mechanic pulled the starter and tried to motorize it on the bench. It wouldn't turn over so we put in a rebuilt starter. I picked up the car later that day and drove it around with no issues. The next day I had to run some errands. I made three quick stops and then went to the grocery store. Up till now the car started every time. I spent one hour in the store came out and it would only click. Had to have a tow to the shop again. The shop was closed so it sat over night. The next morning the mechanic, and I thinking it was a relay, was going to work on it and it started right up. He spent 4 hours trying to make it malfunction so he could diagnose the problem. We even moved the relays around thinking if it was a relay we would put the relay in the air conditioning place and move that one to the starter place. 4 to 5 attempts in 4 hours and every time it starts. Even when I picked it up it fired right up. So I pick it up at 12:30 and drive home. 2 hours later I go out and it will only click. Called the mechanic and we decide to reset the computer by disconnecting the positive lead. After 10 minutes I connected the lead and the car starts. I even shut it off and it fired right up. Here is where the bazaar part comes in. I let the car set for about a half an hour after it started and I try to start it and it just clicks again. I disconnect the positive lead and let it set for 10 minutes like before and now it will not start. Just clicks. I have jiggled the shift lever in hopes it might be the neutral safety switch but that doesn't do anything. Any Ideas?
Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 12:34 AM

11 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
I know how expensive parts can be (i just looked up the neutral safety) should you need something.

Http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_neutral-safety-switch-bwd_18971405-p?searchterm=neutral+safety+switch#

Depending on where you live, "advance auto parts" may be available to you. Promo code "a124" will save you the most (expires at the end of the month) if they are not in your region, a similar method may work at another store

If you want to know how it works and how to make it work to your advantage.. see my answer in the link below

Http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

Keep us posted.

The medic
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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 1:25 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Have the battery tested.
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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 9:35 AM
Tiny
WESTWAY
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
The battery is just fine! To add to the frustration after attempting all of the above I went to my grandsons Birthday party last night. The car sat for 6 hours. When I came home it started right up. I shut it off and started it in neutral. Wouldn't that dispelled the neutral safety switch? As for ground connections we have checked all those already. Could this have anything to do with the body control? I understand it controls the anti theft mechanism. If so where is it located?
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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 12:58 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intermittent_fault

Could be might near anything. nothing man made is perfect.

Battery power, check this out:

Http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

I don't know just how mechanical/ electrical you are......with old neutral safety's, you could simply bypass the neutral safety out of the equation........not that simple these days. If you had wire diagrams you might be able to see what "all of the wires" on it's connector do/go to

This part, and others are not something you can afford to "throw a part at" to rule it out----maybe an inexpensive auto salvage yard special, not something new

Parts stores frown on you "trial and error their parts.. then attempting to return a then "used part" that didn't solve the problem.

You can't blame 'em, something mis-wired or shorted then plugged onto a new $300 sensor might shell out the sensor and "you" still have the same problem... the auto store is now out $300.00.

I get the same results when i lend out "special tools" or even an anvil they get used the wrong way, and are now useless when returned.

Keep us posted

The medic

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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 3:27 PM
Tiny
WESTWAY
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I hear what your saying. I have been involved in the automotive ind. For 40 years and know just enough to be dangerous. You're right on with your post. However after saying that I'm still waiting for some specific advice on my specific problem. I just went out to the garage and the car starts fine, no issues. I will take it to get gas later this morning that way I wont have to shut it off. Then drive back to the house and shut it off to see if it does what its been doing. This one has me and my mechanic scratching our heads for sure. Maybe I'll get better advice when the work week starts.
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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 3:51 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
You will need to test the voltage at the starter with the meter when it won't start. This problem sounds like a loose connection. Good luck thank you for using two car pros will be here.
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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
WESTWAY
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Sound like good advice. The shop is yet to have the car when it malfunctions. I presume you mean check the voltage when the key is turned to the start position and nothing happens right? Assuming the connections are making good contact. If there is no voltage coming to the starter what do we look for then?
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Sunday, March 10th, 2013 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
Yes you are correct. Or when it won't start holding key start position and tap The starter with a hammer possibly you have a bad Armature. They need to check the car until they can duplicate the condition you're having no matter how long it takes.
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Monday, March 11th, 2013 AT 1:10 AM
Tiny
WESTWAY
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
This morning someone on the jag forum suggested that the anti theft transponder could be the problem. Or in his case it was the transponder ring in the steering wheel. His symptoms were similar to mine. Id like to hear from a Jag mechanic on this one. Is this a possibility? Where is the unit located? How do you check the unit or the sending coil (ring) I can get both on eBay but I need to know how to check if either of these is the culprit.
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Monday, March 11th, 2013 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
WESTWAY
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  • 9 POSTS
Update: After 10 days and no malfunctions here is what I have concluded. Thinking back now when this started then coolant reservoir developed a leak. It started leaking out of the bottom where the sensor plugs in. It would drip onto the exhaust manifold near the steering shaft. Steam would come up around the hood and I would relive the pressure and the drip would go away. I ordered a new tank and 10 days ago I pulled the old one and installed the new one. This is when then starting issues have apparently ceased. Can anyone explain this as the tank is on the opposite side of all the electronics and the starter. Right now I'm just happy the car starts but would like to know why. Is there something under the hood that is sensitive to condensation to cause the problem.

Thanks
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Sunday, March 24th, 2013 AT 1:07 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,796 POSTS
Good afternoon,

Good clue with the coolant tank. It is possible that the coolant leaked onto a harness and provided a bad connection or a feedback and that signal caused the ECM to lock out the starter.

When the issue happens is the time you need to check for powers to the starter system. I attached a wiring diagram of the starting system. You will need a voltmeter to test light to do some checks.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know when you want to do some testing.

I would also not count out a battery issue. It should be load tested and the cables cleaned really well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Roy
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Monday, April 27th, 2020 AT 12:19 PM

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