XJ8L JUST CLICKS WHEN TRYING TO STARTOK THIS ONE...
1998 Jaguar XJ8
March, 10, 2013 AT 12:34 AM
XJ8L just clicks when trying to start
Ok this one is really bazar. A week ago my car wouldnt start. It clicked and when I reset the key it started. The a few days later it did the same thing. Then 3 days ago my 1998 XJ8L wouldn’t start at all. I called my shop that works on it and they summoned a tow truck. All I would get is a click in the area of the glove box. My mechanic pulled the starter and tried to motorize it on the bench. It wouldn't turn over so we put in a rebuilt starter. I picked up the car later that day and drove it around with no issues. The next day I had to run some errands. I made three quick stops and then went to the grocery store. Up till now the car started every time. I spent one hour in the store came out and it would only click. Had to have a tow to the shop again. The shop was closed so it sat over night. The next morning the mechanic, and I thinking it was a relay, was going to work on it and it started right up. He spent 4 hours trying to make it malfunction so he could diagnose the problem. We even moved the relays around thinking if it was a relay we would put the relay in the air conditioning place and move that one to the starter place. 4 to 5 attempts in 4 hours and every time it starts. Even when I picked it up it fired right up. So I pick it up at 12: 30 and drive home. 2 hours later I go out and it will only click. Called the mechanic and we decide to reset the computer by disconnecting the positive lead. After 10 minutes I connected the lead and the car starts. I even shut it off and it fired right up. Here is where the bazaar part comes in. I let the car set for about a half an hour after it started and I try to start it and it just clicks again. I disconnect the positive lead and let it set for 10 minutes like before and now it will not start. Just clicks. I have jiggled the shift lever in hopes it might be the neutral safety switch but that doesn't do anything. Any Ideas?
DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU LIVE, "ADVANCE AUTO PARTS" MAY BE AVAILABLE TO YOU. PROMO CODE "A124" WILL SAVE YOU THE MOST (EXPIRES AT THE END OF THE MONTH)----IF THEY ARE NOT IN YOUR REGION, A SIMILAR METHOD MAY WORK AT ANOTHER STORE
IF YOU WANT TO KNOW HOW IT WORKS.....AND HOW TO MAKE IT WORK TO YOUR ADVANTAGE...SEE MY ANSWER IN THE LINK BELOW
The battery is just fine! To add to the frustration after attempting all of the above I went to my grandsons Bday party last night. The car sat for 6 hours. When I came home it started right up. I shut it off and started it in neutral. Wouldn't that dispelled the neutral safety switch? As for ground connections we have checked all those already. Could this have anything to do with the body control? I understand it controls the anti theft mechanism. If so where is it located?
I DON'T KNOW JUST HOW MECHANICAL/ ELECTRICAL YOU ARE......WITH OLD NEUTRAL SAFETY'S, YOU COULD SIMPLY BYPASS THE NEUTRAL SAFETY OUT OF THE EQUATION........NOT THAT SIMPLE THESE DAYS. IF YOU HAD WIRE DIAGRAMS YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO SEE WHAT "ALL OF THE WIRES" ON IT'S CONNECTOR DO/GO TO
THIS PART, AND OTHERS ARE NOT SOMETHING YOU CAN AFFORD TO "THROW A PART AT" TO RULE IT OUT----MAYBE AN INEXPENSIVE AUTO SALVAGE YARD SPECIAL, NOT SOMETHING NEW
PARTS STORES FROWN ON YOU "TRIAL AND ERRORing" THEIR PARTS....THEN ATTEMPTING TO RETURN A THEN "USED PART" THAT DIDN'T SOLVE THE PROBLEM.
YOU CAN'T BLAME 'EM, SOMETHING MIS-WIRED OR SHORTED THEN PLUGGED ONTO A NEW $300 SENSOR MIGHT SHELL OUT THE SENSOR......AND "YOU" STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM.....THE AUTO STORE IS NOW OUT $300
I GET THE SAME RESULTS WHEN I LEND OUT "SPECIAL TOOLS" OR EVEN AN ANVIL----THEY GET USED THE WRONG WAY, AND ARE NOW USELESS WHEN RETURNED
UNRELATED HERE'S ANOTHER "INTERMITTENT" PIC----THIS THING IDLED ALL DAY LONG AND WOULD NOT OVERHEAT.........DRIVE IT AND IT WAS IMMEDIATELY OVERHEATING........PLASTIC IS JUNK!
KEEP US POSTED
March, 10, 2013 AT 3:51 PM
I hear what your saying. I have been involved in the automotive ind. For 40 years and know just enough to be dangerous. You're right on with your post. However after saying that Im still waiting for some specific advice on my specific problem. I just went out to the garage and the car starts fine, no issues. I will take it to get gas later this morning that way I wont have to shut it off. Then drive back to the house and shut it off to see if it does what its been doing. This one has me and my mechanic scratching our heads for sure. Maybe I'll get better advice when the work week starts
March, 10, 2013 AT 6:26 PM
You will need to test the voltage at the starter with the meter when it won't start. This problem sounds like a loose connection. Good luck thank you for using two car pros will be here.
March, 10, 2013 AT 11:18 PM
Sound like good advice. The shop is yet to have the car when it malfunctions. I presume you mean check the voltage when the key is turned to the start position and nothing happens right? Assuming the connections are making good contact. If there is no voltage coming to the starter what do we look for then?
March, 11, 2013 AT 1:10 AM
Yes you are correct. Or when it won't start holding key start position and tap The starter with a hammer possibly you have a bad Armature. They need to check the car until they can duplicate the condition you're having no matter how long it takes. Intermittent problems are a real bitch.
March, 11, 2013 AT 1:38 AM
SORTA WHAT I'VE BEEN SAYING ALL ALONG!
ATTACK THE CONNECTIONS!
I SENT YOU A DIAGRAM BEFORE. CAN YOU READ IT?
MY GUESS IS THE STUFF ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE DIAGRAM. STARTER RELAY ITSELF, OR THE CONNECTIONS TO IT.A BAD STARTER, OR THE CONNECTIONS TO IT
WHEN IT'S IN A "NO START" CONDITION---UNHOOK THE RED/WHITE WIRE FROM THE LITTLE TERMINAL
THE PIC BELOW MAY "RULE IN" OR "RULE OUT" THE STARTER WITHOUT TAKING IT OFF
AFTER THE TEST, HOOK THE WIRE BACK ON AND SEE IF IT'S STILL A "NO START" WITH THE KEY
YOU CAN ALSO CHECK FOR FULL VOLTAGE AT THE BIG NUT----AND VOLTAGE AT THE LITTLE ONE WHILE SOMEONE TURNS THE KEY TO "START"
WATCH OUT FOR THOSE EVIL PESKY MOVING ENGINE PARTS. SHOULD IT BUST OFF DURING THE TESTS!
IF YOU HAD A WILLYS---YOU COULD USE THE STARTER/ PUSH START IT/ OR SIMPLY HAND CRANK IT AS MY DAUGHTER (THEN AT 10 YEARS OF AGE) DEMONSTRATES WHEN SHE LEARNED TO DRIVE
March, 11, 2013 AT 4:41 PM
This morning someone on the jag forum suggested that the anti theft transponder could be the problem. Or in his case it was the transponder ring in the steering wheel. His symptoms were similar to mine. Id like to hear from a Jag mechanic on this one. Is this a possibility? Where is the unit located? How do you check the unit or the sending coil (ring) I can get both on eBay but I need to know how to check if either of these is the culprit.