I drove my 1998 Dodge Avenger ES from my house to a friends house about 10 miles away and it ran normal, then the next morning I went out to leave and my car wouldnt start and its not getting fire from any of the plug wires so I need an opinion on whats wrong with my car!
Okay, that was the short answer. You can't get stuck on the first thing you find missing, spark in this case. The injectors and fuel pump are likely not working either. First of all, if you can hear it over the noise of the chime, listen for the hum of the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition switch. That will tell us where to look next. That hum will only last for one second. Listen by the tank while a helper turns the ignition switch to "run" if you have to. Do you have a test light or voltmeter and know how to use 'em?
September, 29, 2012 AT 5:31 AM
Yeah the fuel pump is kicking on and im getting fuel to the injectors but I took the distributer cap off and changed it and the rotor button but I talked to my regular mechanic earlier and he seems to think its the crankshaft postion sensor so whats your opinion on that diagnosis cause I hd the crank sensor changed b4 and it made my car run better until the other day when now its getting fuel but no spark
September, 29, 2012 AT 5:34 AM
I even thought it might be vapor locked t first so I checked that and still wouldnt start so im kinda puzzled I ws gna change the ignition coil next but thats kinda a tough job so if I can get by with changing the crank sensor and that fixes it I will be greatful!
September, 29, 2012 AT 7:15 AM
That one second burst from the fuel pump is to insure the pressure is up for starting. That will produce pressure in the fuel supply system but it doesn't mean the pump is running during cranking. If the injectors aren't pulsing during cranking there won't be anything to bleed that pressure down. That's why pressure in the system is misleading.
The place to start is by determining if the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay is turning on during cranking. The easiest way to test that is to measure the voltage on the feed wire. That will be the same color wire at all of the injectors. A test light works better than a voltmeter. You should see voltage there for one second, but what's important is if that voltage comes back during cranking. If it does not, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. If you have a V-6 engine, the distributor is the most likely suspect.
Heading out of town soon. Will check back with your progress in the evening.