1991 Ford Explorer hard to start

Tiny
SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD EXPLORER
  • 160,000 MILES
1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 SOHC hard start. Cranks every time, starts after the 7th or 8th time. Once started, it chugs. Turn it off and get it to start again and seems to run fine after it warms up. Once in awhile if I go before it is warm, it seems like there is a weird shift in tranny. It will go into next gear, then back down and back into that gear again. When it shifts that way, it is immediate that it goes in, drops back to lower gear and back into higher gear. There is no lack of shifting either way. No grinding or sincro issues that I can hear. I didn't have the starting or tranny issue until a week ago when I had my thermostat housing and Temp sensors replaced. What could they have hit and knocked loose, or broke in the process of loosening intake to get to sensors and therm housing? I (myself) replaced the $283 air inlet hose because I thought that was it, but still does the same. They ripped it in the process and never said a word about taping it up. That is the reason I replaced it. My check engine light has been on since therm housing repair. I went to Advance Auto parts and had them check the code, and one of the sensors that I just paid to replace is bad, or the wrong one. No other code is being thrown. At this point, I will replace that sensor myself so this dingbat mechanic doesn't cause anymore damage to my truck. Thanks a bunch guys! =]
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2012 AT 2:49 PM

41 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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What trouble code are you getting?
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2012 AT 3:58 PM
Tiny
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I don't know what the exact code is, but I seen it on the computer at Advanced Auto. Is said Temperature send sensor bad.
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2012 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
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Also, the RPM's were at exactly 1000 prior to the therm housing being changed. When I picked my truck up, it was dead set on 500, and has idled there once warm since.
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2012 AT 11:21 PM
Tiny
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Have the coolant temperature sensor checked and tested could be out of specifications
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2012 AT 11:46 PM
Tiny
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That is one of the 2 that were just replaced. They actually replaced that one 2 times. Would it make that much difference in how my truck starts? Could and why would that lessen my idle rpms?
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Thursday, March 15th, 2012 AT 12:06 AM
Tiny
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Clean the idle air control valve and also the MAF sensor with an electronic cleaner called CRC and see what happens
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Thursday, March 15th, 2012 AT 12:37 AM
Tiny
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I will get it tomorrow and try it. Will let you know.
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Thursday, March 15th, 2012 AT 2:02 AM
Tiny
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The ECT is an important sensor for engine performance as the wrong reading can result in the engine computer sending the wrong command to the fuel injectors.

Get another scan done and get the exact trouble code for me. Since parts had beed replaced, codes might change if other problems are causing it.
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Thursday, March 15th, 2012 AT 2:04 PM
Tiny
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I just got home from having the code checked. It is P0117. Coolant temp sensor 1 circuit. I had them show me the part that would be replaced, and it is one of the sensors that was replaced less than 2 weeks ago, but not the one that was replaced 2 times. This is the one that goes to the computer I assume because of the issues with the truck. How does one go about replacing this without ripping it all apart? I would have to loosen the intake manifold, the upper radiator hose, the air intake, and probably the top of the therm housing. Is there an easier way?
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Friday, March 16th, 2012 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
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Is that an ignition part?
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Friday, March 16th, 2012 AT 7:54 PM
Tiny
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No its not an ignition part-its a prameter sensor that communicates with the computer in relation to engine temperature
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Friday, March 16th, 2012 AT 11:06 PM
Tiny
JAY-M
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Hi guys, I really need help.I have 1997 ford explorer 4.0 SOHC hard to start id try to start it for 8-10 times before it will start but my foot on the gas pedal. When it start the rpm reach 1500-2000 but suddenly the engine will shut off. There is no leak, I change the fuel filter, clean the throttle body and IAC valve. Please help me guys. Thanks
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Tuesday, August 21st, 2012 AT 10:17 AM
Tiny
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Have the fuel pressure tested.
Are there any trouble codes?
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Tuesday, August 21st, 2012 AT 10:20 AM
Tiny
JAY-M
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Fuel pressure is good, there is no code.
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Tuesday, August 21st, 2012 AT 10:28 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Without any codes you would have to start with the basic testings. Above links should be helpful.
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Tuesday, August 21st, 2012 AT 10:33 AM
Tiny
JAY-M
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Any sensors can cause this problem without the code?
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Tuesday, August 21st, 2012 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
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Sensors seldom cause trouble without any codes but sometimes they can. ECT, crank or cam angle sensors and any others related to engine operations can cause it.

Guessing does not work and what you need to do is to find out what is missing causing the difficult or non-starting to narrow down the scope of fault list.
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Tuesday, August 21st, 2012 AT 10:54 AM
Tiny
JAY-M
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I replace the spurk plug because thier is a lot of carbon. Just now I start it but 2-3 times I try an then thier is a black smoke and the idle is up and down.
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Tuesday, August 21st, 2012 AT 1:44 PM
Tiny
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Black smoke means it is running too rich and the ECT can cause that. Run a while longer and see if idling stabilises.
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Tuesday, August 21st, 2012 AT 1:50 PM
Tiny
JAY-M
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It wont run for long time, maybe just only a minute. Then the engine will shut off maybe because of the rich mixture. So im goin to buy ECT and replace it.
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Tuesday, August 21st, 2012 AT 2:00 PM

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