1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 L Problem

Tiny
94JEEPCHEROKEESPORT
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 JEEP CHEROKEE
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Hello, I have a 1994 4.0 L Jeep Cherokee Sport as the title of this thread implies.

The Symptoms:

When accelerating the vehicle does fine. However, when I am stopped at a red light or stop sign, or if I have to decelerate to a slower speed. The Jeep has a sound where it will rumble and pop like in the Youtube video that I am going to post. In that video, it mentions the EGR Valve. However, I read on one forum that 4.0 L Jeeps made after 1994 do not have EGR Valves. Though oddly enough they do sell gaskets for EGR Valves for my 1994 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 L at the Big Box Automotive Stores.

Here is the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQLXqhwTnIo

If you pay extra close attention to roughly the 0:37 to 0:49 mark of the video. That is exactly the sound that it makes before it cuts off and dies. It will not restart for awhile like it has overheated but it does not show that it is overheating on the temperature gauge, but if you let it set for a couple of hours. Then it cranks up and drives again. It runs like a top, then all of a sudden at a stop sign, red light, or when it decelerates it will make that sound and die.

Like I said earlier, I read that 1991 and newer 4.0 L Jeep Cherokees do not have an EGR Valve. So if it isn't an EGR Valve causing that sound (assuming this 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 L doesn't have an EGR Valve) then I wonder what could be causing the problem?

Things that I have fixed on the Jeep already

- Engine Control Computer
- Distributor Cap
- Rotor Button
- Ignition Coil


This is a problem that has been bugging me for over 2 weeks now and I just want so badly for the issue to be resolved. Any assistance that can be given would be greatly appreciated.
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Wednesday, December 23rd, 2015 AT 9:39 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge. Clean throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner. Also check rear cylinder head bolt stud. Check harness to see if it has rubbed through and repair that if that is worn through.
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Thursday, December 24th, 2015 AT 5:41 AM
Tiny
94JEEPCHEROKEESPORT
  • MEMBER
First of all, let me start of by telling you how much I appreciate your response. It means a lot to me. Sorry about the lateness in my reply. Between the holidays and spending countless hours working on the Jeep I haven't been able to get back to you.

Now here is where I am at right now in relation to the Jeep. I feel like it is getting closer and closer to being fixed.

I have done all of the things you mentioned except for scanning for codes, and still it would do the cutting out. However, after cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve / Throttle Body on both sides. The Jeep has never really sounded any better. So that was much needed even though it is still shutting off. I also replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor in which I heard was a prevalent problem in Jeep XJs. I also grabbed an Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor as well.

The last two days I have let the vehicle idle. Both times it went dead after idling for 1 hour and 10 minutes. So both times it did idle for more than an hour before making that sound heard in the Youtube link I posted in my previous post. When the vehicle shuts down you always have to give it at least 30 minutes before it will fire back up.

I was pleased with the progress in terms of the vehicle sounding better than it has in a long long time and really even better than any time since I have had it. I was getting a bit frustrated because I am running out of things that can be wrong with the vehicle.

I began to fiddle around with the vehicle some more, and my arm moved the ignition coil wire ever so slightly and it killed the engine in the manner shown in the Youtube Video I posted in the last post that I posted. That ignition coil was on there for over an hour, and right at the 1 hour and 10 minute mark.

So I went and got the old ignition coil wire that I originally had on the Jeep before I bought that other ignition coil wire. Instead of the vehicle having to wait 30 minutes to fire up like it normally does. It fired up again as soon as I put that Ignition Coil wire on that hadn't been on. It only stayed on for 15 minutes or so before stalling out, but in that 15 minutes it ran like a top.

So some how that ignition coil wire is getting hot and when you put a cold one that hasn't been run back on it. It fires right back up without having to wait 30 minutes. So I am wondering if I am looking at an Ignition Coil Wire issue, Ignition Coil Issue, or Distributor Cap issue. I have already replaced all 3 but since I hate some brands at big box automotive retailers in which I won't name names. I went to the junk yard to get all three of those replacement parts because they are Mopar brand and there isn't any places here who carry Mopar branded parts. The cap wasn't cracked or anything, and the Ignition Coil looked good as well, but I know that there can always be something wrong with them internally that a visual inspection will not capture.

Also: I don't know if this will help any, but it seems like the cooler it is outside. The longer it will run. For example if it is 65-70 Degrees like it was the other day it only idled for 35 Minutes before going dead. The last couple of days it has idled it has been roughly 50 degrees and it has idled longer at an hour and 10 minutes before shutting off. The only things that have been changed between the 35 minute and 1 hour and 10 minute idling times has been the Crankshaft Position Sensor and Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.

I would really love your input on what you think might be the issue with the coil wire acting like it is. It would be greatly appreciated and I thank you for your time that you have spent so far with me.
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Sunday, January 3rd, 2016 AT 8:13 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If this is a 4.0L check at rear of engine for a wire harness worn through tha tmay be your trouble. If it is solder the wires and use shrink tube to protect it. It may be just a poor quality coil wire as well. But check those. It's kind of hard to diagnose this kind of problem with out seeing it.
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Sunday, January 3rd, 2016 AT 8:45 AM
Tiny
94JEEPCHEROKEESPORT
  • MEMBER
I checked the wiring harness and I didn't see any naked wires or any that looked corroded.

I was wondering if the coil wire or spark plugs could get hot in that 1 hour and 10 minute time span to make it cutoff and do like it is doing. I checked the plugs condition the other day and they looked fine, but it probably has been longer than the 30,000 miles since I have changed them out. Do you think that could be a culprit?
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Monday, January 4th, 2016 AT 8:03 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It cold be the coil kind of doubt it but you never know i'd think more like a module more than anything or a fuel pump heating up and not working. So you could check your fuel pressure when this happens and see what yo have if not up to snuff then that may be the problem.
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Monday, January 4th, 2016 AT 8:39 AM
Tiny
94JEEPCHEROKEESPORT
  • MEMBER
I sold the 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport from this thread to a friend of mine. Since I sold it to him. I have been seeing him driving it, and he said that it hasn't given him any issues.

Turns out he got a new Fuel Pump for it. I had replaced it on December 21st, 2014 according to my receipt from Auto Zone. I had ruled it out because I really didn't think it would go bad so quickly.

Anyways, I hope this helps anyone who is having problems like the ones in the video that I posted above. I worked on that Jeep for a month solid and about wound up in an insane asylum.
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Monday, January 25th, 2016 AT 9:43 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
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In my very first reply I said to check fuel pressure with a gauge.
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Monday, January 25th, 2016 AT 12:34 PM

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