Engine is hard starting

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Roy

The timing belt would not cause non cranking.

You have a problem with non cranking so this is basically an electrical fault.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-engine-will-not-crank-over

The above link explains the system and how to go about looking for the source of the problem.

Check plugs and wires one may have come off and was not put on right in order. Also check for a vacuum line off as well as a rocker arm/follower in valve train.

Parking brake has nothing to do with non starting. The Park and Neutral Position switch could be.

No clicking and non cranking should be an easy to detect problem and I would suggest getting an electrician to check rather than a mechaninc, from which I can see you do not have any good electrician on your list of mechanics.

You may not have an intake valve opening due to cam/follower wear as that can cause carburetor popping.

One thing about older vehicles is that when wires ages, resistance increases in the wiring and for the starting circuit, the solenoid requires a rather high current to work. I have encountered many such cases and you either replace the wire harness or add a relay to the circuit to rectify, which would be easier, faster and more economical and also prolong the ignition starting circuit life.

Where is the oil leaking from?
What wire harness did you replace?
Did you add a relay to the starting circuit?
Is it the same problem where the starter only clicks when you attempt to crank the engine?

Hello !

Those two problems are close related.
First: check the hose that leads to the gas tank could be bended and that its causing the problem at re-filling.

Second: its hard to start because of the excess of Gases on the evaporative recovery system (charcoal canister full) the gases with excess of gas are going directly to the charcoal canister from a little hole on top of the gas fitting (you can see it as soon as you remove the gas cap.

Fix the hose first and probably your charcoal canister still good after all (chances are)

Let us Know if that solve your problem!

Good Luck!

If you do not see any oil leak to the ground, chances are it is not leaking. The engine is consuming engine oil and that would mean bad valve seals and/or piston oil rings. Note if the exhaust is smoking while engine is running.

You replaced the ignition switch which is not what I had in mind. The ignition switch wire goes to the dashboard to the side panels/firewall to the starter solenoid. It is this portion that is faulty and wasnot replaced. You do not need to cut anything nor install a push button switch for installing the relay. Seems the electrician you have is not really as good as I expected.

What you need to do is to wire a relay in the engine compartment and parts stores should have the relay and wire set for this. Wire them up between the starter solenoid wire and terminal.

Disconnect starter solenoid wire and attach wire to relay coil terminal #85. Ground terminal #86 of relay. When ignition is turned to crank(start) position the relay would click.

For the power supply to the relay terminal #30, you can tap it from the starter main cable from battery, the fuse box or the battery positive terminals, attach a 30 A fuse in between if you are getting power source from battery or starter.

Attach a wire from terminal # 87 of relay to the starter solenoid terminal and we are done.