Please help this fix is a big need and urgent

Tiny
BWACH
  • MEMBER
  • 1977 FORD F-250
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
My 1977 ford f250 2wd supercab runs great, but it has started to stall out like its not getting enough fuel, I run clean new gas and just took apart and cleaned the carb and cleaned it out well, still same problem it sputters hisses and quits, sometimes it seams like it will go but then same thing happens?
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Friday, June 17th, 2011 AT 6:39 AM

54 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Check the fuel pressure and volume of the fuel pump/float and choke system adjustment-start here could also need a A/F mix and curb idle adjustment, also check the EGR and PCV valves operations
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Friday, June 17th, 2011 AT 6:57 AM
Tiny
BWACH
  • MEMBER
Fuel pressure and volume all seams fine, chokes good, pcv is good as well but what is A/F mix? And EGR? And if it none of this what else could it be?
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 5:36 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Does it seem to do better at lower speeds, when demand for fuel is low?

Could be a dirty/ restricted fuel filter

The Medic
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 5:47 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
How about a big vacuum leak?

Hose cracked open--Tee broken

Do you know how to search for them? Will it run enough to shoot some carb cleaner or starter fluid around, and be able to detect a change in engine RPM. Do this outside, fire extinguisher handy!

The Medic
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 6:03 AM
Tiny
BWACH
  • MEMBER
Speed dosnt matter for the most part, but yah I think slower is better, fuel filter is new, and it dose run enough to do that so I will thanks for the advice.
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 6:27 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
On my Grandpa's old truck, we finally found his similar problem.

On the suction side of the fuel pump, an old mushy rubber fuel line was s. Ucking flat, as the pump worked faster

Just came in my head, probably been 25 years ago. Really had us stumped!

The Medic
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 7:01 AM
Tiny
BWACH
  • MEMBER
Now we have backfiring problems, few and far between but they are there fuel lines are fine, I dont know what it could be? Timing maby? Do you have anymore ideas?
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
All I got Raz, Fire for effect after I shoot my FPF.

Too much fuel getting thru. Way too rich maybe?

Did you get your floats set back to the proper level?

Really check hard, for vacuum leaks

Is your idle set really high?

Have you adjusted your idle mixture screws--did you use a vacuum gauge or Tach to tweak it in right.I can provide you instructions on how to tweak 'em in, if you request it.

I doubt your timing just changed all by itself---have you messed with it?

Final Protective fire initiated, will "LAPES" in any info requested of me. On E & E now.

The Medic
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 6:07 PM
Tiny
BWACH
  • MEMBER
No I havent touched the timing, and ive been trying to adjust the screws and it comes close to a fix but im not shur if im getting it right, and I would love those instructions if you could provide them, I cant find any leaks, and how do I set the floats?
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Check the accelerator pump if its squirting fuel when throttle is pull back if not you might as well replace the carb instead of overall kit-
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 8:26 PM
Tiny
BWACH
  • MEMBER
Its getting fuel now but lots of back fires, and wont stay running for long at all anymore, you think the carb needs replaced? And what you mean accelerator pump and pull back?
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Replace the Carbuerator
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 9:27 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
He means, pull back on the throttle while looking inside the carb (engine not running is EZer to see) with a flashlight not a Cigarette Lighter!!! See if you get 2, good, fine, straight, squirts of fuel into the barrels.

Regardless whether you tune that carb, or a rebuilt one, from the auto store, you will have to tweak the screws for best performance.

I really went way overboard explaining this (I'm not a great explainer) to the feller in the post, that I'm sending you to......It's really a.nal (say's my wife, others too!)

This is a really long post, maybe halfway down is where I will probably confuse you with the Carb Tuning Stuff....Although this is not your engine or carb.......It's all about the same.

This feller is a real "Trooper" and he really tries...if you knew his entire situation you would be envious!

According to mike@2car, this is the longest running post in 2 car history....If you "search" this fellers name, he submitted a question before this one, it is almost equally as long.

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1980-jeep-cj7-timingtuning-problem-with-a

I do this for fun, I like to help people, who help themselves.

I am not a professional mechanic.

The Medic

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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 9:54 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Take command and debrief me with an after action report. When? -Sorry!
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
BWACH
  • MEMBER
Lol, thanks guys, yah I was just doing that and I see the two fine nice squirts and that was the issue because I didnt have those before. But it still wont start, should I reclean the carb and/or use newer gas, do you think the tank is rusty and is wrecking my gas or something? And I will check that out right after this, you have done a good job exsplaning all of this thanks again.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 12:16 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Let's do this stuff outside, with a fire extinguisher handy!

Got fuel, or is it water? (Happened to me a couple of months ago!). Doesn't even try to act like it's gonna kick off?

Pour 3 Soft Drink capfuls of 100% fuel, from a fuel can into the carb. Try it, does it try, even a little better than before? If so, maybe it's water in your system!

Continue like this:

Check to see if you have spark

Pull a plug wire, off of a plug

insert a nail or paper clip or any conductive item, in beside the metal connector within the "Boot"

Hold the plug wire/ nail about a 1/4 inch away from the engine (metal). Have someone crank it over several times

Do you have a snapping/ popping spark jumping from the nail to the metal of the engine?

If no, we have an ignition issue, not a fuel issue

Insure you perform your tests correctly, a buddy's assistance is a real plus!

Want your results. Leave no detail out!

This will steer us the right direction

Are you "Capable" with a voltmeter?

Got mechanic type tools?

Your knowledge with your engine components?

Did my link make any sense at all, to you?

Your Turn. Raz, you dropped me back in on this DZ!

The Medic
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 1:36 AM
Tiny
BWACH
  • MEMBER
Ok here it is, it runs and runs good everything is back to normal now, except normal being it still stalls and usually at higher speeds it dose get a more steady stream of fuel then when I first started. But its almost like it just stops getting fuel for a brief moment, which in turn dosnt help with restarting the engine, and no im not the best in knowledge of this stuff my job is soilder not mechanic, but I can do anything, ps love your additude and military quirks lol, im off to recci the plugs, oh tools are here not 100% on how to use a voltmeter but im shur there is one in the shop.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 1:58 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Check the fuel pressure at idle and at 2k's rpm-what is it? Also could be a valve hanging up and worned camshaft
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 2:07 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Post?

Rec services garage available?

Get Down for not identifying yourself before, 25 Elevated Airborne Ranger Puuuuush Uuuuupps!

Can you send decent pics of your engine---forget it if they are blurry

Rangers Lead The Way!

The Medic
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 2:15 AM
Tiny
BWACH
  • MEMBER
Truck dosnt have a rpm, but everything sounds fine untill it quits then it sounds like it trys to take in to much air with the fuel and it gets snuffed and sometimes if I lay off the throttle it corrects its self but thats rare.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 2:18 AM

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