Will run then hesitate, then stall, then not start again

Hi,

What you described sounds like a bad crankshaft position sensor. These sensors are adversely affected by heat when they start going bad. Once they cool off again, they work again.

Do me a favor. Read through this link. It discusses the most common symptoms related to a bad crankshaft position sensor. See if the things discussed mirror what you experience.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

What you can do to confirm is this. Check to see if there is spark to the plugs when it stalls and won't start. If there isn't, this is my first suspect.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

If you feel this is the problem, here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

If you look at the attachments below, they provide the directions specific to your vehicle. Also, the last two pics provide the variation relearn procedures.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

I'm sorry to hear that. Here is what we need to do at this point. When it stalls, we need to determine if it is a fuel or ignition-related issue.

Drive it near to your home in a safe area until it stalls and won't restart. If you can do this by allowing it to idle in the driveway, that would be great.

When it won't restart, see if it starts for a couple of seconds and then stalls when you use starting fluid. If it does, then we know it's fuel-related. If it doesn't, then it is likely ignition.

What I suggested is the easiest way to check. However, here are two links that show how to check fuel pressure and for ignition spark. Note: these will need to be done when it won't restart.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

I realize you may not have a fuel pressure gauge, but most parts stores will lend one to you.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

You are very welcome. Once you do this, it will narrow things down to either the ignition or the fuel system. At that point, we can focus on more specifics related to those areas.

I hope to hear from you.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

How fast did it drop to 3 PSI? Also, when it stalled and wouldn't restart, did the fuel pressure go back to 57 PSI or stay at 3 PSI?

By the way, 57 is good. Specs indicate 55 to 62 with the key on and the engine off.

Let me know if you lost fuel pressure when the engine wouldn't restart.

Joe

After it stalled and wouldn't restart, did you check for ignition spark? It's my guess that it was lost. This takes us back to the crankshaft position sensor.

I may have asked, but do you have a live data scan tool? If you do, when it won't start, can you check for an RPM signal when it won't start? Also, could you let me know the short-term fuel trims when it runs?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

The idea that it stayed running with starting fluid leads me to believe the problem is related to the fuel system. If you have an injector that is wet, that certainly needs attention. The fuel pressure specs you provided are good, so it's likely to be an o-ring on the injector.

One injector, however, shouldn't turn the engine off. It would cause a misfire, but not stall the engine.

Now that I know it stayed running with starting fluid, it's most likely nothing with the ignition system. So, I need you to check for an injector pulse when it won't run. All that means is you are checking to see if the injectors are getting power to work.

Here is a link that explains how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Also, by chance do you have a live data scan tool that could provide the information I mentioned above?

As far as the starting fluid cleaning the injectors, no. The starting fluid is drawn through the intake manifold into the engine. It never goes through the injectors.

Let me know what you find with the fuel injectors and if you have the other information.

There is one more thing I would like you to check if you haven't. On the left side of the engine (driver's side), there will be a black wire attached to the engine block. It is a ground for the ignition coils. All coils are grounded by that one ground.

The grounds are known to fail due to corrosion and they can become weak and the actual connector to the engine can break. If you have a weak connection, ignition spark could be the problem. I attached a pic below showing the wire and its location that I am referring to. Make sure to check it. Move it around to confirm it's tight and the connector doesn't break. Also, make sure the wiring to it is in good condition and there isn't a lot of corrosion where it mounts.

Also, if you have a live data scan tool, please confirm the coolant temperature sensor is sending the correct signal. If it isn't, it too can be causing issues.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe