The engine stalls, sometimes refusing crank?

Could it be an ignition relay in passenger compartment under the dash? I removed it and tested with led headlight bulb, it works, but it is very low amount of amperage. Pictures below are from its contact point.

No, I found the problem is somewhere in PATS system, or the key itself, after few tries it started, then not starting again. I noticed this with both symptoms: when key is turned to on, the preignition fuel pump buzzing does not last even a whole second (instead of almost 2 seconds) and the alarm led diode (on the dash) starts to blink very fast. So I don't have many options, just to try first with removing the battery to reset the whole system, the second - that method with key inside on the on position 3 times x 10 minutes. After that, must visit locksmith.

That does not help, but I tried the other method, on-off, on-off 6 times fast (stopping on ON), then hold any button of the key of couple of seconds till the red diode (on dash) turns off, and back the key to off position and pull out. After 5-6 seconds put the key in again and started everything normally. I waited about a minute and turned off the engine with removing the key. Then I tried again two more times to run engine, it was normal again (key at on position - led illuminates permanently 2 seconds, shuts off, turn the key on start and engine start).

I will know what is going to happen in my next drive (if it even starts again).

For every case, I sent my father with notes on a paper (main problem, find "solution") to a locksmith because I am nightshift, he came with answer of the man: key is okay (after testing on some machine) the problem is in the car, bring it here or I will come there to repair the problem.

So, if you have any advice before I start to throw away again money like it happened with my A/C system two years ago, tell me please what to try to do? (Next steps what to check, and also let me know if it is better for usage of the site, I will post it as a new question). Best regards

I called that locksmith expert and asked, what is that he will "repair" if we bring the car to him, and he said: I will make system deactivation (deletion) of the immobilizer.

I live in small calm city, also have a camera located directly to the car, but that is not a safety point nowadays so I will drive with this relay to see if the problem come again later, because with that (ignition relay) replacement even the stalling stopped these driving days.

If the problem comes again soon, I know the tip (6 times on off on off, pressing any key button and reprogram the code to start) and then will do that step to deactivate, because to be honest, I don't believe to any of our "experts". I'm not trying to acting smart but have lot of bad experiences like the previous with A/C system when losing some refrigerant while replacing high pressure switch and five mechanics said the evaporator core is broken, system cannot be refilled, then in next city the mechanic refilled it in couple of minutes and everything works until now (almost a year).

If you don't mind I would just once more please you to send me a diagram of its relay, to be able to know exactly what consumers powers through it. Thanks in advance.