2003 Volvo XC90 FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT

Tiny
KIMBLES2
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 VOLVO XC90
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,352 MILES
We are a shop just outside DC, we have mitchell ondemand but there is not information on how to replace fuel pump assembly. We think we have to get access from the inside of vehicle by pulling seats, and rolling carpet?

Thanks in advance for any help
Todd
Thursday, May 6th, 2010 AT 7:52 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Hi there,

The Access panel is under the rear seat base.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Thursday, May 6th, 2010 AT 8:35 AM
Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,408 POSTS
If you are replacing the pump for leakage, there is a recall coming out for replacing the pump. In the meantime, before the customer gets the letter the fuel pump warranty for leakage has being extended to 10years/150k mile warranty. If the pump has failed and the reason for replacing the pump is because of a no start and you need the instructions, send me a private message with a fax number and I can fax you the instructions. If this is a 7 seater it can be pretty hard for a first timer but the seats do need to be removed and the carpet. You need to remove the left sender unit assembly and tie a long wire to the harness when you unplug it from the left side level sender. The pump is on the right side and when you pull the pump out, you will be pulling the wire to the other end so that you have both ends of the wire on opposite sides. Tie the end of the harness of the new pump and while you guide the harness back in, have someone pull on the wire to get the harness to the other side. IF YOU PULL OUT THE PUMP WITHOUT THESE PROCEDURE, YOU WILL BE HATING LIFE TRYING TO GET THAT HARNESS BACK ON THE OTHER SIDE! I hope I was not too late here? If you need anymore advise send me a private message with contact info.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2010 AT 2:46 AM
Tiny
MISSIONGROVE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
JIS001
Need the info on replacement. Had new one installed before recall but Volvo did reimburde. All you have to do is contact Volvo and provide reciept. They will refund for replacement. My problem is that after replacement 2 years ago, we have fuel smell in cabin back! Dont know if they will replace again and took a week last time. Thought I would replace the gasket myself? Too big a project? Worth the effort? Crnpooh@msn. Com
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Friday, April 15th, 2011 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,408 POSTS
If they replaced the fuel pump already then I believe your leak will most likely be one of the orings from either the left sender unit or the right side fuel pump. This job is pretty hard to do. Is this a 7 seater or 5 seater?
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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 2:52 AM
Tiny
MISSIONGROVE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
5 seater
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Saturday, April 16th, 2011 AT 4:04 PM
Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,408 POSTS
This job could be pretty tough for you so read over my instructions and decide if this is what you want to do or take it in to a shop? The rear seats need to be removed out the vehicle. So remove the side plastic panels but you will need to gently pry inside at the seat belt release to remove seat belt and completely remove the plastic trim. Remove all the plastic covers under the seats to expose the 14MM bolts front and rear. Remove all bolts. While removing the seats pay close attention to the center seat. Underneath is an SRS connector for the seat belt. Unplug it before removing center seat. Once all the seats are out, remove the carpet. That is why you need to remove the platic covers that hold the carpet down. On the left side and right side will be a black cover with 4 10MM nuts. Remove the nuts so you have a view of the left side level sender and right side fuel pump assembly. If you see the pump is leaking, you should be covered by the extended 10 year 150k mile warranty. But that is ONLY IF THE PUMP IS LEAKING? Look around the tank on the pump and right side level sender. If you see it is a little moist, then that will indicate the o'ring is leaking. If it is the level sender it will not be a big deal and much easier to do then the pump side. You will need a special tool to remove the hold down or use 2 big flat tip screw drivers and make an "X" and twist counter clock wise to remove. Also this will be best done if you are close to empty and will be less messy. If it is full you are going to have major spillage. Pull the sender up partially to unclip the ejector hose from the pump and unplug the connectors. Remove sender and set aside and replace the o'ring. Lubricate the new o'ring with vasaline, it will make it easier to install the plastic hold down nut you removed. Also make sure there is no debri at all inside where the o'ring sits or you will have a leak but worse. When you install the sender, the top has an arrow. Install pointing towards the top. On top of the tank there is a mark. You may need to clean the dust to see it. Looks like this "//" but straighter LOL! The arrow must be in between that mark or you will have an incorrect fuel gage reading. If the pump side oring is leaking the same applies. Remove left sender unit. On the ejector side tie a thin piece of rope and tie the other end somewhere near the cabin so that you do not pull the string all the way through by accident. Remove the plasitc hold down from the right side pump and see if you can suck out some of the fuel inside the pump assembly. Gently pull up on the pump and start pulling the pump outside carefully so that you do not kink the plastic line. Once you have the ejector side on the right side, untie the rope. Replace the o'ring like the other side. Tie the rope back on the ejector side and while you feed the fuel line back in, have some one pull on the rope on the other side to get the ejector back on the other side. This is going to fight you also. To make it easier, remove the bottom clip from the ejector. Helps a little? If you fail to do this procedure with the rope, say you forgot to tie one and pulled the pump out like my first time doing this job, you will be hating life trying to feed a coat hanger through? Once you have put the pump side together, this will also have an arrow on top you need to line up. Install the left sender unit and do not forget to attach the ejector back on or you will have a urging problem. Route the electrical wires and connectors towards the back and verify they do not hang up on the float. Put everything back together and do not start the vehicle up until you have installed the seats. If you do before hand you will trigger the SRS light and you will be forced to take it in to a shop so that they can charge you to reset the light? So there you go. Go over it and decide if this is something you want to do? If you need any more information or you feel I was not clear on something then let me know? Good luck to you.
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Monday, April 18th, 2011 AT 2:22 AM
Tiny
MISSIONGROVE
  • MEMBER
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Much more than expected! Thank you very much and thank you for your time. Great to have folks like you out there ready to help. Truly appreciated!
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Monday, April 18th, 2011 AT 4:27 AM

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