Vehicle lurching, lack of power, stalling

Tiny
LARRY HERRON
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 FORD FREESTYLE
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 155,350 MILES
I have a 2006 Ford Freestyle; 250,000km; VIN 1FMDK01156GA51783
For several months now it has been exhibiting a very unusual problem. You can be driving along with everything feeling normal when the vehicles lurches multiple times, then stalls. This was very intermittent where it would happen several times on one outing, then the problem would go away only to reappear several weeks later. The stalling was very disturbing when it happened on the highway at cruising speed, but could also happen when stopped at a Stop light, accelerating away from a stop, or driving at a constant speed. The vehicle has gone to 3 different garages and has had the battery terminals replaced (they were apparently corroded and making poor contact), the alternator has been replaced, and the fuel pump was replaced (there was a Check Engine light the last time which indicated a faulty fuel pump). After all of these repairs the original problem still exists. It has gotten so bad I can no longer drive the car. It will start and when I try to accelerate the car lurches multiple times with steady pressure on the gas pedal, then loses power even with the RPMs climbing, until it stalls.
I have seen on the Ford website that the Freestyle has an active Recall for a Throttle Body malfunction. In your opinion, is that what’s going on here?
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Tuesday, July 21st, 2015 AT 6:16 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The first thing we need to know is the exact diagnostic fault code number. There is no code that says to replace the fuel pump. In fact, fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're bad. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, or the unacceptable operating condition.

There are well over 2,000 potential diagnostic fault codes but only about half of them cause the Check Engine light to turn on. The first thing to do now is have the codes read and recorded to see if there's anything worth pursuing.

The next thing is to connect a scanner to view live data during a test-drive. The better scanners have a record feature that allows the mechanic to record about five seconds of data when the problem occurs. Later it can be played back slowly to see what changed during the event.

I have a guess that one of two sensors is failing. They often fail due to heat buildup, then work again after they cool down for an hour. If I'm on the right track, you should find the problem occurs less when the engine is still cold. A loss of signal from these sensors usually has to occur long enough for the Engine Computer to detect it, but the engine might stop running before that happens. That's where the data recorder becomes a valuable tool.
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Wednesday, July 22nd, 2015 AT 12:08 AM
Tiny
MISS KATT
  • MEMBER
Thank you CardioDoc.
But which 2 sensors do you suspect please?
Thank you
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Tuesday, January 21st, 2020 AT 11:59 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Please start a new question specific to your vehicle. Here's the link to the page to get you started.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

This started out as a private conversation between just the two of us, and LARRY HERRON never bothered to check back to say what he found or if the problem was solved. As you can see, that didn't offer you any help Because only the two of us receive notifications when a new reply is posted, none of the other experts are going to see your addition or have a chance to respond. That very likely will not get you the help you need.

When you post your question, please be sure to list the engine size and mileage. Different engine sizes usually come with very different systems. We look at the mileage when making judgement calls as to best suspects. Also please be sure to include as much detail, observations, and clues as possible.

When we help you figure out the solution to your vehicle's problem, your question gets cataloged in such a way as to help others like you who are researching a similar problem. Too often I see where a lot of people have added to one question, and it ends up covering four or five pages. That's too much to expect someone to wade through, and it provides them too many false leads.

To answer your question about the sensors, those were the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor, but whether one or both are used depends on the engine and model year. Also, the description of the symptoms doesn't exactly match how they commonly act when they fail. I was leaning toward a fuel volume problem, (not a fuel pump problem), but no follow-up was ever posted, so we'll never know.

The best approach is to use the scanner I mentioned in "record" mode so we can see what the Engine Computer is seeing and reacting to. For fuel volume problems, I've already driven around in my own vehicles with a fuel pressure gauge attached and clipped under a wiper arm for over a year and a half before I figured out the cause of an elusive and very infrequent problem. In your case, we need more information to know where to start with the diagnosis.
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Tuesday, January 21st, 2020 AT 1:43 PM

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