1994 TOYOTA COROLLA CAR CRANKING BUT NOT STARTING

  • Tiny
  • rpchivukula
  • 1994 Toyota Corolla

Electrical problem
1994 Toyota Corolla 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 130000 miles

1994 Toyota Corolla LE with 130K miles stopped suddenly on the road. Mechanic said he found electricity was going into distributor but not out of it.

To save money I replaced the new distributor myself (which actually contains a new coil as well in these models). However I forgot to set the cylinder one to "0" position before replacing the distributor.

Now, car is still cranking but not turning over. And I still am not getting a spark at the sparkplug wire.

Question is: Will not setting the Cylinder 1 to "0" cause no spark at the sparkplug wire? Or is there something else that is still wrong?

I wanted to find out what might be still wrong before removing the distributor and resetting Cyl. 1.

thanks in advance!

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Saturday, May 1st, 2010 AT 8:57 PM

11 Replies

  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
  • Expert
  • 19,553 posts

Not setting it to o will not cause a no spark
if have no spark fuses and wires OK
check timing belt

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Saturday, May 1st, 2010 AT 9:15 PM
  • Tiny
  • rpchivukula
  • Member

Thanks for speedy response!

The rotor is turning, so timing belt should be ok then?

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Saturday, May 1st, 2010 AT 9:27 PM
  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
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Rotor turning we should assume timing belt is good
next step is to check for power at the distributor connector

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Saturday, May 1st, 2010 AT 10:29 PM
  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
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Blk/org wire should have power with key on if not
turn key on do you have a check engine light on if not check fuses and check PCM relay


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_7005_thumbnail_9.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_5239blg_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic_75.jpg

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Saturday, May 1st, 2010 AT 10:37 PM
  • Tiny
  • rpchivukula
  • Member

Thanks BMRFIXIT, for the schematic. I got a testing light and checked that the light comes on at the blk/org wire of primary.

The distributor is new (as is the coil, as it came with it).

The cap, rotor and plug wires are old (2 years old), but they look good and new (and wires and rotor were checked by auto parts guy).

What should I be checking next?

Thanks!

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Sunday, May 9th, 2010 AT 10:38 PM
  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
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Normal Mode
Before retrieving trouble code(s), verify MIL on instrument panel comes on with ignition on and engine off.
If MIL does not come on with ignition on and engine off, check bulb circuit on instrument panel and wiring circuit between MIL and ECM.

If MIL remains on, self-diagnostic system has detected a malfunction or abnormality. Ensure battery voltage is greater than 11 volts

Apply parking brake. Shift the transmission/transaxle into Neutral (M/T) or Park (A/T). Turn A/C and all accessories off. Ensure throttle is in idle position.
Turn ignition on with engine off. Install Jumper Wire (SST 09843-18020) between terminals TE1 and E1 in appropriate Data Link Connector (DLC)..
Count number of flashes from MIL on instrument panel. If system is operating properly (with no trouble codes), MIL will flash continuously and evenly. .
If MIL will not flash, check TE1 and E1 wiring circuit. of trouble code will be flashed at approximately 1/2-second intervals. A 1 1/2-second pause separates first and second digits of code.
If more than one trouble code is stored, a 2 1/2-second pause will occur before next trouble code is flashed. Once all trouble codes are displayed, a 4 1/2-second pause will occur then trouble code(s) will be repeated.
Trouble codes are displayed in order of smallest to largest. After trouble codes are retrieved, remove jumper wire to exit Normal Mode


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_5239bl_11.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_5239blg_3.jpg

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Monday, May 10th, 2010 AT 5:16 AM
  • Tiny
  • rpchivukula
  • Member

Did all that you instructed. The MIL is flashing continously. No trouble codes, I guess.

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Monday, May 10th, 2010 AT 11:54 AM
  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
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Remove distributor cap
ground one side of the test light at battery negative
and plate the other tip at in the coil tip
have a helper crank the engine for you (watch out for the rotor)
check for spark

let me know, I will be looking at the wiring harness

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Monday, May 10th, 2010 AT 7:40 PM
  • Tiny
  • rpchivukula
  • Member

I am getting a light at the secondary, not sure about spark or if it is more important than a light.

Now, I have changed the distributor cap and rotor as well with new ones. The wires are OK with Ohm-meter (and look good).

Should the distributor/coil be ok if I just get a light at secondary? Or should I look for spark?

Thanks!

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Monday, May 17th, 2010 AT 11:21 AM
  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
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If getting spark from the secondary at the coil should have spark from the cap if cap and rotor OK
unless coil is bad and not have a strong enough spark

check this video it shows how to check for spark
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_engine_ignition_system.htm

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Monday, May 17th, 2010 AT 7:45 PM

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