High beams issue!

OK thanks

Hi guys: I've been doing some checking on the 3 sensors(ECT, MAP, IAT). It seems when I go out to start the car, and if it doesn't start, I check the voltage readings on the 3 sensors, with the ign. On, I get 0 volts on all 3 sensors. Then when I read 4 to 5 volts on the sensors the car starts up. Then when it dies I check the voltage on the 3 sensors and it's zero again and the car will turn over but not start. It makes me think maybe a faulty computer. I know the mech. Said he changed it but what if he put a used or rebuilt one. Can the computer be checked to see if it's good?

Can you think of anything else that would cause the 3 sensors to not have any voltage? I'm going to try and find out what kind of ECM he put in and in the meantime see if the toyota dealer can check the computerout. Thanks

I found out the ECM was a used one so he's trying to get me another one. I don't know which wires to check because I don't have a wiring diagram.

I checked color coming off the 3 sensors at the ECM and not getting any reading. When I get my replacement Ecm I'll check the readings and let you know. Thanks, talk to later

I got the replacement ECM today. I installed it and then tried to get some voltage readings but couldn't get any. So I tried starting the car and it wouldn't start. So I figured then it must have been something other than the ECM. So I went back to my old theory that the problem was in the theft deterent system and I installed the alarm module back into the system and flipped the diarm switch located on the drivers kickpanel. The car started up ran a little whjile then shut down. I tried to start it up again and it wouldn't start, so I began to look around and found the alarm activation switch under the hood was broken off and I'm not sure was working properly so I disconnected it and then tried to start car. It started up ran for ten minutes then I shut it down and it started back up again. I'm going to call it a day and see what happens tomorrow. I'll let you know.

Hey Dave : I haven't found the problem yet but I'm in the process of changing out the coil, roter, dist. Cap and wires to see if these are the problem. I couldn't get a resistance reading across the plus and minus on the coil although I did get a good reading on the secondary of the coil. I did notice that the plastic insulation on the coil was cracked so I figured I'd change it after all it's got 300,000 miles on it. Something interesting tho was when I went to get the new coil, the guy there at O'riellys said that the earlier ford coils would crack and when they did the car would run a while and then shut down.I'm hoping that's the problem with mine. Anyway I'm gonna put it all in today and I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the interest, talk to you later. I did have a question for you, Do you know why there is a plastic box or chamber attached to the inlet air line between the air filter and the intake plenum. Thanks again, Mike

Morning Dave: Well I tried replacing the items I mentioned and it still won't start. I'm thinking that maybe it could be one of two things left the Igniter or the main relay fuse box. What do you think about those choices. I've been reading a lot of comments from people on the internet that have been having problems with igniters working intermitantly and it looks like from the wiring diagram that the voltage flows from the igniter to the ECM then to the distributer. And right now I'm not getting any voltage to the distributer from the ECM when I turn on the ignition. Also the new coil I purchased had 0 olms for the primary resistance reading across the positive and negative poles. Would that keep it from starting? The manual calls for.4 to.5 olms.

Hi James: I'm using the 20K scale. The same one I used to check the secondary circuit which checked out OK according to the manual.

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