Temperature gauge reads hot and there is a thumping sound

Tiny
YOLANDANOLEN
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD RANGER
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
My gauge starts to rise then goes down when we've stopped. Also hear a thumping sound. We've changed the temperature sensor. Completed a flush to radiator. Checked hoses last week and we noticed it sunk and fixed if. And about to do a heater coil change. Changed the fan and clutch to radiator fan. But it's still raising temperature and lower it like fluctuate between cold and the word normal then back to first line on gauge.
Wednesday, January 26th, 2022 AT 7:18 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,254 POSTS
Hi,

I have a couple of questions. First, did you fully bleed the air out of the cooling system when you changed the thermostat? Also, is the heater working? Does the vehicle ever overheat or is it just the temperature gauge that is moving in an odd way?

Also, are you certain there are no leaks? Have you pressure tested the system? Here is a link explaining how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

Are there any diagnostic trouble codes present? Here is a link explaining how to retrieve them on this model year. You don't need a scan tool.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, January 26th, 2022 AT 5:25 PM
Tiny
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Yes, it was bled completely. Yes, the heater works. Gauge moves in an odd way. Truck warms up and we drive it at a certain speed. When we start to deceleration it moves from first line to the middle of gauge once we have slowed or stopped, we have to press on gas and push on brakes and the temperature goes down to first line. Yes, there is no leak.
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Wednesday, January 26th, 2022 AT 7:34 PM
Tiny
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Revving the engine will increase the amount of coolant circulating to help cool the engine, but it shouldn't happen that quickly.

Let me know the engine size and if it's 4wd. I think we need to look at schematics to find this problem. It sounds more like an electrical connection issue.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, January 26th, 2022 AT 8:19 PM
Tiny
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4.0 engine and a 2WD.
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Wednesday, January 26th, 2022 AT 8:25 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

That helped. I think I found the issue. I was able to dig up an old technical service bulletin related to a temperature gauge/noise. I attached it below. It appears there was a coolant bypass kit that needed to be installed to prevent steam from forming, restricting coolant flow, and then making a noise.

Take a look below at the TSB and let me know your thoughts.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Thursday, January 27th, 2022 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
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Okay, I have looked for that part but can't find it. What might be my options?
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Friday, January 28th, 2022 AT 4:26 AM
Tiny
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Okay, so I just found out its a 1993 Ford Ranger Splash, not a 1995, sorry.
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Friday, January 28th, 2022 AT 4:51 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

No problem. It appears Ford had this same issue for several years. It's the same with 1993, just a different part number.

I did notice that it indicates trying a 16 PSI radiator cap first. If that doesn't eliminate the issue, then the kit is needed.

I attached the TSB for a 1993 below and highlighted the part number. The problem is trying to find one after all these years.

Also, make sure the coolant is mixed 50/50. IF there is too much water, it can cause this to happen as well.

Now for the part, here is what I remember (it's been a while). The kit consisted of a lower radiator hose with a molded-in tee and a section of heater hose that goes up to a new fitting that screws into the thermostat housing where the temperature sending unit is mounted. The temp sending unit is relocated to another part of this new tee in the hose.

I tried for a long time to find a pic for you with no success. Here is the thing. According to the TSB it is caused by steam and we know that it shouldn't even exist. So, make sure the system is flushed, the coolant is a 50/50 mix, get a thermostat that opens at 180 F rather than the OEM 195 F, and make sure you have a good 16 psi rad cap. Hopefully, that will take care of the issue. If it doesn't, we need to figure out a way to fabricate the "kit".

Let me know what I can do to help.

Joe
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+1
Friday, January 28th, 2022 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
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Okay, will try that. Thanks.
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Friday, January 28th, 2022 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

I hope it takes care of it for you. You know, if there is too much water mixed, it could boil and cause steam, so anything is possible.

If possible, let me know if this takes care of the problem. I'm really interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe
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Friday, January 28th, 2022 AT 6:50 PM
Tiny
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Okay, we just bought a new radiator cap 13 PSI 2weeks ago, does getting the 16 PSI really make a big difference?
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Sunday, January 30th, 2022 AT 11:22 AM
Tiny
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Also, the is air blowing the radiator and changing the heater coil.
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Sunday, January 30th, 2022 AT 11:25 AM
Tiny
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So, after the air blowing, we found that the radiator joints were leaking. The plastic piece that is compressed to the radiator the joint is leaking between the two.
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Sunday, January 30th, 2022 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

It sounds like you found the problem. As far as your question regarding the radiator cap pressure, keeping coolant under pressure increases the boiling point. Since the TSB indicated steam, the maximum recommended pressure cap was suggested to avoid boiling of any type.

Is it possible for you to upload a pic of where it is leaking? I'm interested in seeing it.

Let me know,

Take care,

Joe
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Sunday, January 30th, 2022 AT 7:02 PM

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