Still shutting off while driving

The only code I received was a P0440 code. The rpms stay around 1000 when idling but when it feels like it is going to stall out, sometimes it goes as low as 800 maybe? This is only after driving 10-15 minutes but for the most part it idles steady.
I have noticed a few times as I was braking to a red light, right before it reached the idle 1000RPMS the gauge "bounced" a few hundred RPMS then settled down. I've noticed it maybe 3 times since refilling the oil.

I wrote down everything that the Actron OBD had available so I can fill in any information you might need.

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Oldsmobile Alero 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

heres the run down;was driveing the car then parked for a few minutes, went to start again and all it would do is it starts up and runs for about 5 to 10 seconds, I went through the prosses of elimination, the security light is not flashing but it stays on with all the other dash lights, the fuel pump has 55 psi pressure and it only drops by 5 psi, I did the 10 minute wait thing a bunch of times and I did the disconnect the yellow wire on the switch, I even removed both door panels and tied the 2 wires together to what I thought might be the alarm, so heres what im comming up with so far:the fuel pump seems to be fine but if I remove the small hose that is on top of the throttle body between the air filter and the throttle when I spray carborator cleaner in there after or during starting the car it will stay running as long as I keep spraying the carb cleaner in the hole in the hose between the filter and the throttle control, what could it be that is shutting down the flow of fuel to the intake?Is there a sensor that can be jumped, something is shutting down the flow of fuel to the engine, the fuel pump stays running, another way I can keep it running is by after starting it as long as I turn it off and quickly turn it back on and keep turning the key switch on and off it will stay running, (edit)i am now going to try the yellow wire thing again I believe I was cutting the wrong one, I cut the small yellow wire that is on the key ignition switch, I am goin to try the one that is in the steering colum the female 3D, if I dont get any help on here I will eventually figure out how to get this 2000 alero to stay running without spending a fortune and if not it will be turned into lawn ornament

[quote="Jacobandnickolas"]You mentioned it held pressure. Are you sure the injectors are getting power? Also, the security light should shut when you turn the key to start. Is it staying on the entire time?[/Quote
the injectors get power to start it then after it starts up it shuts down, im geussing the security is shutting it down after it starts (because of the timeing of when initial question was asked) I have tryed other trial and errors, I now have the ingnition switch out and its pretty much destroyed but it still works, I pulled all the timbler keys out and lost all the little springs, but I can still start it as usual, but by asking if the injectors are getting power it brings me to the notion to try to hot wire power to them(any idears?)But yes that im believeing now is where the problem is I just need to figure out what is telling the injectors to shut down, also yes the security light stays on, its been some time and as it stands its now just sitting behind the garage and may end up being a parts doner, but I will keep trying, I cant afford to put hundreds of dollars into something that wont cure the problem as many other folks have done

O I forgot to mention it is a 2.4L engine Automatic transmission. I'll try to get some cleaners today, check the hoses, wires, and terminals as well. I have to do some driving today so I'll make a note if any more errors occur. Going appx 10 miles each way. If any of the wires or harnesses are at fault, will they be easily recognizable as "looking faulty"?

Your absolutely correct, This is one for the back burner until spring now, thanks

I'll check that out, I know my gas cap is a bit of a pain to get on, it may be worse than I've given it credit. Thank you for the heads up.

My daughter has a 2000 olds alero, it's been completely shutting down while she is driving it. We had it checked, and all that was found was a vacuum line was off, it was fixed, yet it's still doing it. Any idea what could be causing this?

The information is fine, and understandable, however, once it's stalled, and she tries to restart, it starts and acts fine. As to diagnosing it, I know nothing of the newer cars, and I have no tools. I'm not a mechanic, that's why I paid to ask you. It's hard to try to diagnose it as well, when it's doing it in the middle of traffic.

My daughters Alero (4cyl 2.4, 178,000 miles) also had the same problem. Would stall coming to a stop or when coasting. Rough idle and stumble or stall, sometimes both if you put the slightest pressure on the accelerator when stopped in gear. No check engine light.I eliminated the obvious.I cleaned the throttle plate/housing (very dirty). Had fairly new spark plugs. Replaced the spark plug boots/connectors and fuel filter (original filter!). But still had same problem. Then I saw it! When the engine was at idle the vacuum was sucking the hose to the map sensor closed! Replaced with $2.00 peice of vacuum hose. Problem gone. Still has inherent shaky idle but runs good. Im happy. And solved the problem myself. Sometimes the vacuum hose looks fine at the sensor but is split where it connects to the vacuum port on the other side.

I have a 2000 Alero 6 cyl with 133000 miles on it. When I am driving it will stall out and sometimes start right back and other times it will have to sit awhile before it will crank. I have replaced the fuel filter and check the onboard computer and it showed a code for the cam shaft postion sensor. I replaced it and now it shows all codes passed.
What could be the problem? I have my doubts about the fuel pump. What else should I check?