See photo: are the rear drum brake springs in the correct positions?

Tiny
CARADIODOC
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The only thing I see is the top metal bar needs to be pushed up a little. It should be centered on the large anchor pin, then it will pop back another 1/8" and the two return springs will sit deeper behind the head of the anchor.

I still don't have an answer about that extra spring on the bottom.

As for cost, that sounds reasonable if someone had to drive out to your place. You should be able to put the other side together by using this one for a reference.
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Tuesday, June 4th, 2013 AT 10:12 PM
Tiny
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This job shakes my confidence a little because not only do I just have to remove the drum. It is attached to the hub and the bearing needs to be tightened and then the axle shaft has to be put in. I am afraid of not getting the bearing tight enough without a $60 tool I don't have. This guy seemed to get it tight enough though, no play in wheel. Thanks for your support.
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Tuesday, June 4th, 2013 AT 10:29 PM
Tiny
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Here's a pic of the lip the metal bowtie you were telling me about. I was able to do this side myself. It's hot right now but I will put the hub on later this afternoon. I didn't see the guy tighten the outer bearing nut but I think he got it tight by putting two phillips screwdrivers in two opposite holes and wedging another tool to turn the nut. I will try this. Your help gives me confidence, thanks.
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Wednesday, June 12th, 2013 AT 9:34 AM
Tiny
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I forgot to ask in last post. Are the main return springs supposed to brush up against other parts? Here's two pics is this normal?
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+1
Wednesday, June 12th, 2013 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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The two return springs appear to be correct. The only thing I can't see is the hook on the left end of the left spring. Judging from the gap between the spring and shoe frame it appears to be installed correctly. They could rub against the end of the parking brake strut.

If there is a pair of tapered wheel bearings in each drum you don't want to make the axle nut overly tight. Typically I crank them down as tight as possible with hand tools to be sure they're seated fully, then I loosen the nut, then tighten it again by hand. Over-tightening them causes the gear lube to squeeze out of the rollers resulting in metal-to-metal contact. You want just enough play to allow some lube to sneak in between the rollers and bearing races.

If the bearings use straight rollers the axle nut can be tightened more because it pushes on the inner race only. Nothing pushes on the rollers that will make the gear lube squeeze out.
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Thursday, June 13th, 2013 AT 1:17 AM
Tiny
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Hi Caradiodoc, I was reading in the 1985 Toyota Factory Svc Manual that you put the front(large) return spring on first. Do you think it matters? Have you ever seen where this makes a difference? Thanks
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Monday, July 1st, 2013 AT 5:34 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Sorry to leave you hanging. Been out for a week fighting a kidney stone. This is my first reply now that I'm back on the computer.

It doesn't matter which return spring you install first. My personal preference is to install the front one first only because the rear one holds the adjuster cable guide, and it's possible for the guide to pop out. The hook of the spring keeps that guide in place. If you agitate it enough and that guide lifts out of the hole in the shoe frame, it will move 1/16" closer to the anchor pin resulting in the adjuster lever dropping low enough to no longer turn the star wheel. The only way to reseat that guide is to pull that spring off, set the guide in the hole properly, then rehook the spring to keep the guide in place. If you installed that rear spring first you also have to remove the front one to remove the rear one. Not a big deal, but that's why I install the rear spring last.
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Thursday, July 4th, 2013 AT 12:59 PM

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