Rough Idle, now Check Engine light on?

2010 FORD FUSION
117,000 MILES • 2.5L • 4 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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TUBEGEEK
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Car listed above is an SE model with 6F35 six speed transmission.

Not driven that much on a regular basis; one 20-mile round trip some weeks, maybe once a month a 200-mile trip. Otherwise, short hop city driving.

About 2 or 3 months ago I started noticing rough idle from time to time. Not seeing a pattern hot or cold. From time to time a little "bump" feeling when stopped - like the clutch engages slightly for an instant then not?

About a month ago horrible misfiring, bucking bronco, from a cold start. No check engine light this time. Drove to the mechanic, changed spark plugs did not fix. Changed ignition coils, which cured the bad misfiring, seemed to be running fine. Past few weeks, intermittently getting the slightly rough idle and occasional "bump" again. More often/worse than before.

By comparison with most cars this car probably gets driven on short hops more often than most. Sometimes it just barely gets a chance to warm up or even doesn't get to. Stuff like taking a one-mile ride, parking, riding back hours later. Or a few times around the block to switch parking spots. But there is no real difference between the idle behavior when cold and on the occasions when it does get a chance to warm up properly.

I don't notice any correlation between really cold days and warmer days either.

No weird noises so far as I can tell.

I don't necessarily think the bad misfire problem was related because the behavior is still pretty similar to before that episode. It's hard to say because it's not consistent, sometimes doesn't occur, sometimes doesn't for a while, does for a while, doesn't again.

Today: 30-mile round trip, started with stop and go city driving, then some speed-limit highway, then back again.

During the initial stop and go, check engine light came on and stayed on for the whole 60 miles. I did get to high revs for very short stretches a few times. Car runs fine once up to a few MPH, still rough idle and bumpy/jerky when stopped.

I had ordered a Bluetooth OBD2 dongle already, coming in a couple more days. Will update this question with codes as soon as I can.

When I think about the couple of long road trips this summer, I don't recall any rough idling at all. The start of it was this fall during the pattern of getting less use, but I first noticed it right after my daughter dropped it off here - so after her 100-mile highway trip. I remember I wondered if she got a watered-down gas fill up somewhere, it was when the gas prices were jacked up. It got somewhat better for a while, still intermittent, then the misfiring/plugs & coil incident, now the several weeks of intermittent rough idle and "bump"ing.


Advice from @galopigos on reddit (condensed):

Okay short hops and not running much can cause build up in the cylinders because the carbon doesn't get burnt out of it much....

So, connect the scan tool and find the long term and short-term fuel trims and write down what they are at idle, if you can find the MAP and MAF numbers grab those as well. Next, take it out on the highway and run it as hard as conditions allow, you want to get the engine really warmed up and work it some. That way you will be able to see if it's just the short hops letting things in the cylinders get dirty.
Now as soon as you get back from that run throw the scan tool on it and see look at those same trims and numbers....


Now if the idle improves after the run it's likely just the short trips. Have you seen any coolant loss? ...

No coolant loss as far as I can tell. Will double check that.
Dec 27, 2022 at 6:23 PM
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TUBEGEEK
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Just adding one other detail I have noticed, the temperature gauge is always at about 1/3, so, a little colder than centered.
Dec 27, 2022 at 7:18 PM
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STEVE W.
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Okay, with the temperature gauge it's possible the engine coolant temperature sensor is faulty if it just stays there. If the ECU thinks the engine is running cold, it will change the fuel mix to help it warm up faster and that could cause a rough idle. The codes you pull may show more information, so we will wait for those before jumping the gun too far. Please keep us in the loop.
Dec 27, 2022 at 8:42 PM
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Will do. Dongle arrives in two days according to the package tracking, hopefully no flash blizzards between me and that truck.
Dec 28, 2022 at 2:02 AM
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Dongle arrived. A little flaky connecting to the OBD2 port under the dash but eventually I got it to stay on steadily.

Here's what I found using live data from the free version of the Piston phone app.
First number is idling, 3 or 4 minutes after start up. Figures that are in brackets [] are taken revving to about 2500 RPM. Most did not change, so no brackets. Screen shots are below, the newest one on the left was after the shutdown/restart.

Coolant temp: 171 [163]
Short term Fuel Trim Bank 1: varied between -5.5 and +3.9 [similar when revving]
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: -3.1
MAF Air Flow Rate: 0.4 to 0.5 [higher when revving, 1.5 to 2.5]
O2 Sensor Voltage bank 1 sensor 2 : 0.8 with small variations
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 Sensor 2: 99.2

In addition I had a code P303, Cylinder 3 misfire, which was there twice (one was Permanent, the other was Current.)

I cleared that code, and CEL went out. "Permanent" code went away after a shutdown/startup cycle. Did not come back so far.

During this testing the car was NOT idling rough at all, so I guess this is baseline info. Only a few minutes of running in all.

I see that STFT B1S2 at 99.2% is normal.

Coolant level was at the seam in the tank, so - I think - that's at the bottom of the COLD range, there is a mark about an inch above the seam which I think is the top of the range. This is what I remember from a previous check also, so not losing coolant so far as I can tell.

Next step, I'm guessing, is to drive a bit until I get the rough idle and check again while it's acting up?

Any tips to get the dongle to make solid contact instead of needing to be jiggled until it lights up steadily?

Picture of the ELM327 scanner here:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jSoAAOSwRLRie-Jj/s-l400.jpg
Dec 29, 2022 at 2:03 PM
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TUBEGEEK
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Second session:

After some intermittent rough idling, and about 2 solid minutes of revving over 3000 RPM,
the only changes I see from the scanner are occasional dips in O2 Sensor Voltage bank 1 sensor 2 : it would go as low as .12 for short periods which seemed to coincide with rough idling, and also the Long-Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 was changing more than it had before, with dips to -2.1 and then returning to a steady -3.1.

Everything else seemed about the same.

Idling was on the lesser side of the roughness spectrum this run, it was intermittently a lot rougher yesterday when the CEL lit up.
Dec 29, 2022 at 3:05 PM
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STEVE W.
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Okay, the P0303 code is pointing at a misfire, Fords in that era didn't trip the code until there was a long period of misfires. Check to see if that app can read the misfire monitors, it might let you watch the cylinders to see if it's missing during the rough idle. I would also take it for a drive and see if the coolant gets up to a hotter temperature, which should have a 185 thermostat in it. The fuel trims look good once it warms up.
If you want to do a bit of testing, pull the coil off 3 and swap it with 1. Then swap the 3 plug with 4. See if the misfire code travels with one of the parts and you will have found the bad part. I would say to change the plugs as they are due at 115,000, if you already did and it started missing after that it could be a bad plug or a failing coil. The swapping could pinpoint it if the misfire shows up during the rough idle.
Dec 29, 2022 at 5:25 PM
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Plugs and coils were replaced just a couple of weeks/less than 200 miles back, during the "bucking bronco" horrible misfire episode. (I know that first post was kind of rambling....)

So, would it be a good idea to take it back to the garage that just replaced plugs and coils? They'd probably stand behind the new parts, at least I'd hope so. And if I go poking around in that spot that probably wouldn't fly anymore. I can tell them I tried to diagnose it myself but pulled out before I started messing with their work and it'd still be true at this point.

Couldn't hurt to get the upgrade to Piston I suppose to watch the live data better - hopefully including the misfire info.

I was really hoping for "clean/replace the MAF sensor" or something really stupid/easy/cheap like that.

Thanks for your advice. What do you think of my "go back" idea? I feel like it's reasonable under the circumstances.

Is there anything that might be murdering plugs or coils?

Temp: I can at least tell you that the gauge never got to the center of the scale during my 30 mi up/30 mi back trip on Tuesday.

Dec 29, 2022 at 6:49 PM
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STEVE W.
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So, it was missing badly, and you took it in and they did the plugs and coils, did it run better and then started this? You could take it back and tell them that it still has a problem but they might say "Well it could be your injectors not the parts we installed" I would swap the parts around and see if it changes, you can easily swap them back if nothing changes, or swap them once you determine that say the plug is misfiring. Then see if they stand behind their work. The usual killer of plugs and coils is more physical damage. Like a cracked plug or a coil that has carbon tracking. Another variable is the parts they used. Some vehicles are really fussy about the parts. I've seen Chryslers with the 3.7 and 4.7 that were running really good and the owner or another shop changed the plugs from the common copper plugs they run over to double platinum plugs because they were "best" and they start running like poo, misfires and issues galore, change back to the base plugs and everything is cured.
Look at what they used and see if it was OE or at least something other than Dorman.
Dec 29, 2022 at 7:02 PM
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Okay. Makes sense. Will I be able to ID the plugs without removing them? I don't think I have a socket deep enough to pull the plug, of course I can get one if necessary.
Dec 29, 2022 at 8:54 PM
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STEVE W.
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You would need a plug socket and extension to get to them. Sounds like a good reason to get a tool kit or at least get the tools you need. Something like this one would work. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/tool-sets/mechanics-tool-set-225-piece-62664.html Or https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-243-Piece-Standard-SAE-and-Metric-Combination-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set-1-4-in-3-8-in/5001996843 There are multiple places you can get kits like that. Just pick one that is from a local store and has a decent warranty. Both of those are lifetime. That way you also can deal with other repairs.
Dec 29, 2022 at 9:11 PM
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Some new observations. (I haven't done any swapping yet.)

First: rough idling never seems to happen right away when the car is ice cold.

Second: I'm now seeing the car come up properly to normal warm during a couple of brief city drives, about a half an hour. OBD2 says temp is about 200° when warmed up. Gauge is about in the middle.

Third: when I'm stopped at a light and start to feel vibrations/jerks, shifting to neutral makes the roughness go away. I only feel the roughness when in gear and stopped.

I had not had this happen back before the plugs and coils were swapped. At that time, rough idling would not go away if I went into neutral, I did test it back then.

I had not tested this out again after the plugs and coils were replaced, not until the last couple of days. Now: shifting into neutral immediately results in smooth idling, no jerking.

I often say when trying to fix stuff "there's no law that says you don't have two problems." I think I may have started with two separate problems - one which got worse and then was fixed by the plugs and coils being replaced, and another which now seems to me to possibly involve the driveline/transmission.

My inclination is to go ahead and carry out the transmission fluid drain and fill I was about to do - I have what I need to do it. I held off because I didn't want to confuse the issues, but I'm thinking it may be worth a try now if the trouble I'm still having does relate to the clutch and transmission. Worst case I'm wrong and I've done a recommended service but gotten no improvement to my problem. Best case there is an improvement after swapping out the old transmission fluid.

I can always start coil swapping next if the fluid replacement does no good.

Good idea? Bad idea?
Jan 1, 2023 at 7:59 PM
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STEVE W.
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At least you have a plan. Plus, as you said it's a service it needs anyway. If I'm understanding this you had a rough idle before that didn't stop in neutral, then you swapped the coils and plugs and now it still has the rough idle but only when in gear which would be under a load and would exacerbate any faults because it's at idle and not producing a lot of power.
Really nothing to lose to service the transmission.
Jan 2, 2023 at 6:31 AM
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TUBEGEEK
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You've got it straight. At least it's my interpretation of the current state of affairs.

Okay, up the ramps I go!

Happy New Year. Thanks for the help. More on this once I get a chance to do the job and test the outcome.
Jan 2, 2023 at 8:00 AM
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STEVE W.
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Okay, another test for you when you get off the ramps. Get a can of carb cleaner you want the stuff that says that it's so flammable it will blot out the sun, not the enviro-friendly version you can wash penguins with. Now on a cold engine, start it and take the can and spray around the intake manifold, any vacuum hoses and around things like the throttle body. Listen for the engine rpm to change or make odd noises. Look at the area you just sprayed. At idle under load the engine is producing a lot of vacuum, a small vacuum leak could also cause the rough idle and misfires. You might also notice misfires if you were coming downhill and let off the throttle and let the engine pull even more vacuum. Those can be harder to feel though.
Oh, be careful letting neighbors see you with ramps and tools, you may suddenly be tagged as "the one who fixes cars", lol.

Jan 2, 2023 at 11:16 PM
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TUBEGEEK
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LOL - I think their risk would be far greater than mine in that scenario!

Thank you. Probably not today - raining. Hopefully this week though.

Hopefully the penguins will get their rinse from the clouds this time - they get pretty smelly.
Jan 3, 2023 at 11:16 AM
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Okay, I put mine up on the ramps today, just got finished. I have not yet done my ride-around, so I am not confident in my final fluid level yet, I'll do that in the next day or so.

While running the engine before and after I again saw Cylinder 3 Misfire codes. Too soon to evaluate overall jerkiness and idling - I'll be taking an evaluation ride soon. I cleared the codes.

While up on the ramps and cold, a little less than 4 quarts of ATF drained out. I measured what came out and refilled it twice with the same amount, so I still have about 2 quarts on hand in case the level needs topping up once I do the correct process of checking on level ground, after riding around, shifting, etc. I used Motorcraft Mercon LV, I bought 2 × 5-quart jugs on Amazon - my local AutoZone did not have it.

The seam down the middle of the transmission did have a minor amount of oily dirt stuck to it and the belly cover also had a small amount of greasy dirt accumulated in its low spots. I'm thinking that 117,000 miles probably just looks like that, but I'll keep an eye on it.

The old fluid was opaque, brown, but not obviously gritty, and it looked about the same both times I released it. This is what I've been told to expect from ancient Mercon LV

My belly cover appears to be missing two pieces - a roughly 5-inch diameter round snap-in piece that I think is for draining the cover before you try to remove it, and a rectangular piece (supposedly) attached by screws that go into clips in the cover. That one looks like it's for service access to the bottom of the engine and radiator towards the front of the car. I guess I'll have to try and retrace the car's last 50 or 60,000 miles and see if they're still by the side of the road where they fell off.

Feeling pretty good - my first time ever doing my own maintenance, and now I have the ramps if I want to do my own oil changes or whatever. Old dog learns new trick: alert the media!
Jan 4, 2023 at 1:07 PM
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STEVE W.
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Yes, it's common to see seepage on an older vehicle, what you don't want is dripping or worse a steady stream. Fluid sounds normal for the vintage. Access covers and plugs are a common loss, the round one is a rubber plug, I've seen them fall out when they were taking new ones off the trailer! They generally make the covers and then decide "Oh we need access here for the oil filter" They put the hole in, then a month later stop using the engine that hole works with!
Sounds like you have a hunt if it's only cylinder 3. P0303 code. When it gets nicer you can swap some parts around and see if it is a cheap part. I've been running into a lot of junk right out of the box in the past year. I think the factories are telling the QC folks to take vacations and letting the customer be the Guinee pigs, like the software folks do...
Seems like you have a handle on things and more important are willing to learn as you need to, that is something that can be rare in the DIY realm, everyone wants to watch a video and instantly have the answer, which works for some things but for vehicles it can be interesting...
If you want to learn more about testing and what things you see on the scan info you can hit a few YouTube channels ScannerDanner, deadondiagnostics5502, Diagnosedan, PineHollowAutoDiagnostics and SouthMainAuto. Just don't be shocked if you start questioning everything the shop does....

This video might point at yours in terms of testing coils: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8B6jAq6RnU
Jan 4, 2023 at 6:04 PM
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TUBEGEEK
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Steve W., thanks for the videos, those guys were fun to watch, kind of goofy. I saw the FordTechMakaluko video on spark plug replacement also which shows my exact engine and its coils etc.

I have a good feeling about my local shop honestly. I think I'll do the swap, see what happens, and if it follows the coil that he just put in I'll talk to the guy and all I really would ask him to do is hand me a new coil. The swap to a new coil is just the one bolt and the one clip, I'm just as happy to do that so my wife can think I'm a hero if I end up fixing it.

If I don't, well, you've given me a couple more ideas.

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm not super afraid to dive in and try to work on pretty much anything. Being a homeowner, you get pretty used to breaking stuff with a cat's paw and patching it back up, you get desensitized to the disasters. The hardest part honestly is I have no good place to work. I did this fluid swap in just a bigger-than-usual parking spot out on the street, ramps and all.
Jan 4, 2023 at 6:51 PM
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STEVE W.
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Brian also has BSG Automotive as his shop and a YouTube channel as well. Paul Danner, Ivan at Pine Hollow, Eric O are all folks I've went to training with or met over the years. All great folks. I started out under a tree on the lawn.
Jan 5, 2023 at 12:24 AM
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TUBEGEEK
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Swapped coils. Misfire followed the coil on the scanner. I spoke to my mechanic; he's going to put a new replacement in for me tomorrow. He had tossed the originals, and two of them were certainly bad so trying to test with one of them would have been a crapshoot anyway.

The 4 coils now in there are bright shiny and new, so I guess a new-part failure. In the tube world, "infant mortality."

Or a second problem will show up once all the coils are straight. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the backup!
Jan 5, 2023 at 2:31 PM
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STEVE W.
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Unfortunately, early parts going bad is getting to be common with parts these days. Sounds like you found the problem so far. Good job.
Jan 5, 2023 at 5:22 PM
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Update: car sort of fixed itself a little - less rough idling, and CEL turned itself off. Then I dropped it at garage, mech said he WAS able to reproduce my issue, and he replaced the suspect coil that I had moved to #1.

Didn't have a chance to shakedown it afterwards: I still have to verify my ATF fluid level; I had trouble getting a clear reading on the transmission dipstick on my first attempt. Will probably get a chance tomorrow to drive a bit, check the idle, and also try again to put a pin in the ATF job.
Jan 10, 2023 at 8:15 PM
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STEVE W.
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It could be that you moving the wiring connections made the coil sort of work. Sounds like the shop is trying to do right as well. I've seen more than one that would have ignored what testing you have done and likely would have hit you for all new plugs, coils and testing. For the ATF, start the engine, run it through the gears a couple times. Put it in park, pull the stick, wipe it off, push it back in and pull it to see the level.
Jan 10, 2023 at 8:51 PM
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Yeah, he blew me off for a day or so but then he got to.it, and no charge of course for the coil swap. (I now know that that is only about a 2-minute job if you take your time with it, so....)

No way I was going to pay for new sets of coils & plugs - that's what he just did about 10 days ago and he got me for a big $$ ticket on that with the diagnostic etc. I don't even want to tell you what that bill was, but it tamed the wildest of misfiring at least. I was worried he might want a new diagnostic $ but I guess he just went with my logic, maybe he didn't even spend time reading the codes once he was able to confirm the misfire?

Hopefully things will settle down now.

With the dipstick - I got everything warmed up with a short drive and running through the gears. The ATF looked low (the front & back of the dipstick did not agree, I went with the low side) so I added about a half a quart. After that, I think there was still fluid in the dipstick fill tube - I kept getting a line of ATF along one edge of the dipstick, and patches of fluid in different spots. I must need to wait more and let the fluid flow all the way in after adding some - I was impatient I guess. The Fusion manual says to keep it running while you measure, which I did, and I've been told by a couple of Ford-centric internet commenters to get it full warm before checking the level, with a real 10-20 minute warmup drive. Next time I'll be sure to let it flow into the trans if I add any more fluid, I think that was the part I did wrong.
Jan 10, 2023 at 9:20 PM
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STEVE W.
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Yep, you want the fluid fully warmed up; it expands quite a bit. Some vehicles even have a chart with the level and temperature to go with fluid levels.
Jan 10, 2023 at 10:11 PM
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Good test-drive today. Mix of stop and go traffic and highway up to 70 MPH or so. Only the mildest vibrations when stopped, nothing like it's been. Good news!

Now I have to sort out the ATF - I think it was actually quite low before I started, it has read low so far as I can tell after my two drain & fills, where I replaced the same amount, I drained. Since then, I've added about a quart and a half, I'll re-check the level tomorrow.

I need to figure out whether I left the drain plug unsealed? Or if there was actually a fair amount of seepage before I bought it? Or I'm reading the level wrong?

Going to look in the belly pan for evidence of the drain plug being leaky (I don't see evidence under the car though.)
Jan 11, 2023 at 4:07 PM
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STEVE W.
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It can take a bit if it was low, you need the cooler filled and all the internal passages. Then when you check it be sure the car is level. Then follow the process you already know.
Jan 11, 2023 at 6:52 PM
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Here's where I stand, with a couple of questions thrown in:

Two good test drives since the suspect coil was replaced. No kicking at a standstill, everything seems normal all the way up to high speed. Very slight periods of very slight vibration while stopped, this seems normal. I'd say I'm completely sure it's completely fixed but for one piece of info. I just got hold of AndrOBD, a very nice free/open-source diagnostic app for Android. It has the feature of showing misfire counts, not just fault codes. I have been told that this era of engines can have a fair number of misfires before setting a code. I would suppose that the count the app shows is the total on all cylinders.

After about a 20-minute ride I saw about 20 misfires counted, no fault codes. Is that a lot? Is that a red flag? I've also noticed that my coolant temp still never gets above 180. But the idle does change to a lower RPM (950 goes to 750) once the engine warms up - so that means my thermostat is working, right?

I also drove around a bit and rechecked the ATF with the dipstick - no problem reading it this time. It was reading just about perfect - between the upper hole and the top line. I poured in about another pint. I'll look at it again in 25,000 miles if I ever get there. I'm not really as worried about leakage anymore but next time I'm under the car I will take a close look. (I have some black vinyl wrap I plan to chrome-delete the three upper grille bars and the lower grille surround with; that will require me to go up on the ramps at some point.)

Feeling pretty good about going ahead with the ATF service, I think it seems pretty clear it was warranted what with the low level and the 100,000+ miles.
Jan 13, 2023 at 6:16 PM
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STEVE W.
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The misfires are a bit high but as you had the coil issue it's very likely just a remnant of the cylinder not firing all the time. Pour a can of Berryman's B12 in the tank and take it out for a spirited romp and blow the carbon out of it. Then see if the misfires go away. If not then you may want to pull the plug and clean it, but it should clear up with a bit of hard use.
Temperature wise if it's cold in your area the coolant may not get much above the thermostat's operating temperature.
Jan 14, 2023 at 1:33 AM
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I will grab a can next time I'm in the auto parts store. It was maybe 40 degrees while I was driving - cold but not extremely so.
Jan 14, 2023 at 5:51 PM
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STEVE W.
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Pour it in and take it for a spin. aka drive it like you stole it... LOL. If it doesn't clear up, you could just change that single plug that is showing the misfires. What happens is that the plug doesn't fire cleanly and then it builds up carbon when it does fire because of the oil and gas in the "dead" cylinder. Now with the good coil it's starting to fire but the crud is causing it to act up.
Jan 14, 2023 at 7:41 PM
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TUBEGEEK
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Hmm okay. So, I would change the plug in 3 (where I had the problem for a little while) then? Not 1 (where I only had misfires while I was troubleshooting, relatively short time)?

I don't think I get any data from this tool on *which* cylinder is misfiring until it reaches the threshold to send a code, the "Misfire count" is just a single number which I think is a total.

How important is it to get a plug that's exactly identical to the other 3?

All this, assuming the additive plus the "Italian tune up" doesn't fix it.
Jan 15, 2023 at 5:15 PM
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STEVE W.
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I would try the tune up first. (Do you watch VGG?) If it's a bad plug it would most likely be the one in cyl 3 that had the bad coil on it for a while. For a replacement you would want the same make and part number as the others, which is because even though the common plugs sold to fit that engine are "correct fit" they are actually ones that the companies have decided are close enough to work. However, that also means that in order to be sure they actually match you need the same ones. I wouldn't be in any rush; they could clean up.
Jan 15, 2023 at 9:54 PM
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That VGG guy seems pretty entertaining - I'll check out a few more of his videos, thanks. I landed on one about a rat rod Chevy C10 pickup that was pretty messed up but also pretty cool.
Jan 16, 2023 at 12:13 PM
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STEVE W.
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Derek is a great guy. He has a lot more knowledge than he lets on in the videos.
Jan 16, 2023 at 6:06 PM
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A couple of cans of B-12 are on the way. Free shipping=taking the slow boat, so it'll be a little while before I get a chance to use it. Any downside in doing, say, two consecutive tankfuls? It was quite cheap to buy two off Amazon.

What would you say to opening up and cleaning the electronic throttle body on this car? It seems that there was once a replacement extended warranty on that part for this engine but I'm late to that party. It was only for cars exhibiting symptoms, though, so I guess that's a good thing.

I will say the slight vibration at idle seems to be improving each time I drive it - been lead-footing it whenever traffic permits. (I always do that anyway but now I have an excuse!)
Jan 23, 2023 at 1:03 PM
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STEVE W.
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I would wait and pour in the Berryman's first. Those throttle bodies can be cleaned but you then need to do the idle reset. See if your tool supports that. If it does, then give it a shot.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service
Jan 23, 2023 at 1:38 PM
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TUBEGEEK
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"Berryman's first." - 2x? Okay? Or just once and stop fussing with it?

Jan 23, 2023 at 5:45 PM
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STEVE W.
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Pour in one, run it to see if it improves enough. I've run multiple cans in a single tank but not in modern fuel systems. Usually isn't needed with them as they generally run cleaner than the older vehicles. It will likely improve as you run it and get the crud cleared out.
Jan 23, 2023 at 9:57 PM
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TUBEGEEK
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What I've seen online about cleaning the throttle body on this year's Fusion is: disconnect the battery, remove and clean the throttle body, reinstall it, bleed the capacitors, and then reconnect the battery and go through a re-learn routine. FordTechMakaluco (among others) shows this process. No computer commands required. Sound okay to you?

I have some general knowledge about electronics, I'd personally drain the caps through a resistor rather than shorting the car's + and - together, it'd give a thorough but less sudden discharge. I have plenty of 5W resistors here I could use with no fear of blowing them up. Maybe 1K - 10K ohm, something like that.
Jan 24, 2023 at 3:32 PM