Engine Cranking Problems?

Do below:

**Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

Check fuel pressure with mechanical gauge to test port on fuel rail. If OK, then check spark.

Generally, if you leave a car sitting for longer than a month, you need to put a gasoline stabilizer in tank to prevent varnish from building up.

First, what made you believe fuel pump was bad, and how didn't you find out it wasn't. Whatever tests you may have already don't will help me narrow down possible causes.
Also, are there any warning lights on the dash, specifically the check engine light? If so, that is where you should begin because having the computer scanned will point you in the right direction.
There are several possible causes for your car to run rough/misfire. It could be as simple as bad gas to as complicated as an ECU malfunction. If there's no trouble codes stored in your computer, begin your diagnosis with by checking that there's no water in the gas. Next check the basics like the spark plugs, air/fuel filters, etc.
If all of those are new, then you'll need to check that fuel pressure is good and that the ignition system is in good shape.
The fuel system consists of the pump, filter, regulator, lines, injectors and wiring/connectors. Check each component thoroughly.
The ignition system consists of the coils, spark plugs/wires and wiring/connectors.
Don't forget the ECU and sensors which tell control both systems. If a crank/cam sensor is faulty, you'll have a random misfire that will cause the symptoms you described as well.

If the battery and connection are good and engine will not crank over your possibilities here could could be the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch/clutch switch and ignition switch.

Is your security light on solid or flashing?

Sounds like you have a security malfunction the first thing you need to do is take it to a auto parts store and have them read your code's. Let me know if you any codes if you do then let me know the exact code numbers and we will go from there.

Hey Mark,

I guess you need to go back to basics on this and find out what of 3 basic needs for combustion are missing-compression, spark and or fuel.

The quad 4 was a funny motor that isn't so funny. A real common problem for these is the coil housing that causes lack of spark. Typically it would still runm just rough.

I don't see the headlights being related to the no start. You can put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if the pressure is in spec when cranking. IT would possibly be helpful to pull the codes from the computer and list them.

Say the timing is the missing link. IF the water pump seized and stopped the motor from turning, it would also stop the alternater on the other side from turning, giving the light issue and the no crank. If for whatever reason, the starter was able to overcome the bound up waterpump, turned the motor over, but the pump came apart at this time, the increased slack in the chain causes a timing issue that it no longer starts. If this was true you might see coolant leaking, but maybe not.

Give this a try to at least to get it started so you can get your codes read.
Key on, bump to start, set for 10 min. Until security light quits flashing. Repeat 2 more times. May want to put charger on low to keep battery from running down.(Then you have to start all over)
Let me know what happens.

The security only shuts down the injector pulse not the pump itself. You will have to check the solid black wire to the pump for a constant ground. Then check the gray wire to the pump it should have battery power for a few seconds when turn the key in the run position or constant power while cranking the engine over. Let e know what you find.