Cranks, but will not start

First let me share a few wondrous points. Except for those vehicles with diesel engines, you will never solve a running problem on a Chrysler product by replacing the fuel filter. That is a valid assertion for most other brands, but unless they rust out and start leaking, fuel filters on Chryslers last the life of the vehicle.

Second, never believe you are going solve a problem on a vehicle you are buying when the seller says, "all it needs is, . . . ". If that were true, they would have done it. What they really mean is they could not figure it out, or it is going to be an expensive repair. When they are going to sell the car anyway, they would have done as many little repairs as possible to increase the value and asking price.

Third, gas in the tank is pumped into a small bowl in the middle, then the pick-up tube sits in that bowl. That prevents stalling when you go around a corner and the gas runs to the side of the tank when the level is low. When you run the tank empty, the gas you pour in may not exactly hit that bowl and fill it. You may need to add enough gas so it spills over into that bowl. It only has to get a little in it. Once the engine starts, most of the fuel going to the engine returns to the tank, and that flow siphons more gas into the bowl to keep it full. In the case of one of my four Caravans, it takes five gallons before the engine will start.

Fourth, you came to the right place. We have a pile of experts here who specialize in various things, so we can get you through almost any problem. One resource you should be aware of is the long list of training guides and how-to articles. Here is where you will find that list:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles

You can also go to the top of this page on the right side where it says, "Repair Guides".

Thank you for listing the engine size. The 3.0L uses an ignition system that is very different from that used on the other engines. The computer controls are the same though for all the engines and models.

I have to leave now for a doctor's appointment, but I will be back shortly. In the meantime, look at this article about reading diagnostic fault codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/retrieve-trouble-codes-for-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-odb1-1995-and-earlier-car-mini-van-and-light-trucks

The ignition switch cycling is the same, but this list of codes is for 1995 and older models. You will read three-digit codes in the odometer display. Once you write those codes down, go here to see the definitions:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2

or I will interpret them for you when I get back. You said to checked for spark, but you did not say what the results were.

Fuel pressure can be misleading because the fuel pump will run for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. That doesn't mean the pump is running later during cranking. You could have a bad fuel pump, or you could have an ignition system failure, but it is by far, much more common to be missing both spark and fuel pressure. The most common causes of that are a failed crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. The Engine Computer can set diagnostic fault codes to direct us to the circuit that needs further diagnosis, but in this case, simply cranking the engine may not be enough for those defects to be detected. Often the codes will only set while a stalled engine is coasting to a stop.

When you have no spark, if you have a scanner, you can connect that to view live data and see if either sensor signal is not showing up at the computer. When you don't have access to a scanner, the fastest way to begin the diagnosis is to measure the voltage at any injector, the positive terminal on the ignition coil, or either small wire on the back of the alternator. Typically that is a dark green / orange wire at all places. A test light works best for this because digital voltmeters don't respond fast enough. You should see 12 volts on that wire for one second when you turn on the ignition switch, then it will go back to 0 volts. You might hear the hum of the fuel pump at the same time. What is important is if that 12 volts comes back during cranking. If it does not, those two sensors are the best suspects.

Do you have spark? Did you read the diagnostic fault codes?

You need to check fuel pressure with a gauge if that is in question. Ten pounds of pressure can look like a lot and spray up to the hood, but that is not enough for the engine to run. 45 pounds is normal. To find an elusive problem a few years ago, I drove around with the fuel pressure gauge clipped to the radio antenna so I could watch it. That Caravan, with a 3.0L engine, still ran fine down to 20 psi, and it sputtered at 15 psi when pulling a huge trailer. Some brands of engines will not run if fuel pressure is just five pounds too low.

You should be able to rent or borrow a fuel pressure gauge from an auto parts store that borrows tools. The 3.0L engines did not have fuel pressure test ports on the fuel rail. You will need to disconnect the larger of the two rubber hoses by the right front strut tower, then insert an adapter tee to connect the gauge.

Here is a related article:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator