Dandy. Grab a voltmeter or test light and back-probe the dark green / orange wire in the coil pack connector, any injector, or either small wire on the back of the alternator. In this case a test light is more accurate, but if you're using a digital voltmeter, watch closely because they respond slow enough that the initial test can be missed.
There should be voltage on that wire for one second after a helper turns on the ignition switch, then it will go back to 0 volts. That voltage must come back during cranking. If it's never there, check for a blown fuse. If it's there for that initial one second but not during cranking, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. Given the recent history, it's more likely a mouse chewed on the wires going to one of those sensors than the sensor actually failed.
Wednesday, August 3rd, 2011 AT 9:31 PM