Overheating after about twenty minutes of driving?

I have considered head or in take leaks but have no signs of that and no oil in the radiator, no water in the oil have sprayed solvent around the base of the intake with no increase in RPMs at any point, and not a scent of coolant upon startup though it seems like some coolant has vanished at times. However, I normally will pull over before the engine gets too hot and let some air in to the system to speed the cooling process and will lose some that way. As a small business owner and a one man show and months behind adding new things to my schedule weekly, I am always in a freaking hurry. I have not flushed the radiator as the tap in points are nonexistent on this vehicle and I can find no visible evidence and no neglect history to make me feel that that is a probability however I had never considered just running water threw the radiator with the pump and hoping that would do something but I could. So, I'm on it in the morning and purchased coolant and a new reservoir cap. Side note: I can see coolant moving in my reservoir but it seems minimal, and I will wrap my hand around the top radiator hose when the thermostat is open and squeeze, I can feel the water more in of a pulsing than a steady flow and will almost collapse or suck in at times while doing that. I will give you a report after flushing a few times and throwing some coolant in and bleeding the system because your insight has some legitimacy in it so I appreciate it.

Okay, flushed my system best I could three times added coolant and bled system as per shop manual the warmup and bleeding procedure takes about 10 minutes and the thermostat was open for the last five of that. Heat is coming from my heater but not hot, it's lukewarm air. There was no debris in the drainage from my system when flushed each time, however I noticed my upper radiator hose felt fuller and did not seem to collapse when squeezed. I will be trying a road test in 30 minutes.

Okay, I drove the car 9 miles with a mix of 55 MPH and 35 MPH stopping and shutting off twice for 10 minutes each time heat was weak than did the miles with no stops and car did not overheat but heat was going but barely noticeable.
Shut car off and 30 minutes later made the 9-mile trip again and was getting no heat and car started to get over temperature when I arrived waited 20 minutes and drove the 9-miles back temperature stayed. Bled a little air from heater ble3eder and heat was coming out but not hot good but no heat at all. Shut the car off for 20 minutes, started it up and bled air from heater and got warm air again. The 9-mile route I have been taking normally takes 13 minutes to do some hills some level ground.

Let it set for about 20 min started it and drove 1
200 feet no hot air after 5 min of idle top radiator hose would almost collapse when squeezed tried to bleed heater and got no coolant to come out ran it up to 2000 rpm for a min and got some coolant waited until it was a steady stream and closed it and was getting warm air again. An had to tend to other things.

Hoses are less than 3 months old and bled a tiny bit more air out, top hose was full and firm some heat from heater. I drove a 5-mile trip then five miles back. Got on the highway and nailed it with no increase in either coolant temperature or heat. There is no real radiator cap, there is an engine fill cap and I have replaced that entire assembly and a degas bottle or reservoir and bought a new cap for it last night and installed it this morning the bleeding procedure is burned into my brains. I was able to acquire a shop manual and have bled this many times in the last 4 months, but did have 3 questions, they tell you to fill the reservoir until it equalizes and you can't fill anymore, I have no idea of what that means then it says to open the bleeder until it runs steady, but how far do I open it because I can make it run steady by how far I open it and if getting air in the system is so critical. Why do they tell me to put the cap on and fill as needed while bleeding the air?

Like I said before, I think it may be a loose or cracked impeller in the water pump or my fan never seems to speed up with temperature and the actuator that sends more voltage to the solenoid to feed my hydraulic fan may have failed. I'm just looking for a way to discount or verify something so I can proceed onto being one step closer to being able to tear into this.

Okay, I understood zero of that. I feel that if I could you would be contacting me for diagnostics not me contacting you. Car was getting close to overheating this morning and pulled over and let it run I still don't know how far I'm supposed to open the bleeder but opened it a little and Air was coming out so kept opening it and a lot of air and water was coming out did that several times and it cooled down on its own drove home did a little more and am going to do some more here in a minute. There are too many parts of the bleeding that I'm not clear ion # how far do I open the bleeder #2 how long should there be a steady stream running out of it before I close it, and how long should I have to wait for that to happen, what if it never achieves a steady stream or what if I open it too much, is there a too much? Could be bleeding it according to the procedure bit since those two areas are not clear it may not be getting the air out, also when I shut my car off the AC receiver seemed to be vibrating so I waited and wiggled things around its coming from the ac drier or something attached to it so I turned the key on and off without starting and it stopped.