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Not starting?

Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 DODGE INTREPID
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 205,000 MILES
I changed the head cover gasket, and it started running rough like I had a miss, and I had just changed the plugs to do thought it was my plug gaps so pulled plugs and checked my gaps and put them back in. Then it wouldn't start. I changed the purge valve cannister and the coil solenoid. Still not starting. What am I missing. It ran fine except for a small miss in it until I checked my plug gaps then no start. Did I damage the plug wires?
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Saturday, December 24th, 2022 AT 6:32 PM

45 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,289 POSTS
Hi,

If this happened after removing the spark plugs, I'm questioning if there is a wiring problem to the coils or we have a failed fuse.

Do me a favor. At the coils, you will see a dark green wire with an orange tracer. With the key in the on position, check that wire for power. (See pic 1 below)

If there is no power, check fuse B in the power distribution box under the hood. In addition to checking the fuse, confirm there is power to and from it.

Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Power from Fuse B travels through the ASD relay and then to coils.

Let me know what you find, and Merry Christmas

joe

See pics below.
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Saturday, December 24th, 2022 AT 11:05 PM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Thank you, soon as I find my test light, I will check it out. I appreciate your response, thank you.
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Tuesday, December 27th, 2022 AT 1:06 AM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Which wire and fuse are you talking about?
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Tuesday, December 27th, 2022 AT 1:08 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,289 POSTS
Hi,

As far as the fuse and relay, see pics 1 - 3.

As far as the wire, that is at the coil connector. See pic 4. In the wiring harness to the coil will be a dark green wire with an orange tracer. With the key on, confirm there is power to it.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.
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Tuesday, December 27th, 2022 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Code reader said emissions purge control valve circuit. I replaced the cannister already. Don't have a test light so couldn't check that wire. I have a analog multimeter but couldn't get any kind of reading off it when trying to test that wire. The fuse is good because when I plugged it back in it made some clicking sound like it engaged the computer. My battery is shit. Have to replace it if I can ever get it to run. So, is it the purge valve wire harness?
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Wednesday, December 28th, 2022 AT 12:52 AM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Is this plug go into anything, looks like it comes from the headlight area but I could be wrong or is it what I am missing?
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Wednesday, December 28th, 2022 AT 1:22 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,289 POSTS
Hi,

The connector you found is difficult for me to determine. What color are the wires going to it? I believe one is blue. Also, you certainly can use an analog multimeter. Set it to voltage. The key needs to be in the run position when checking power at the coil. If there is no power, that is the issue.

Let me know. Also, the EVAP code you had wouldn't prevent it from starting. What I need to know is if we lost spark to the plugs. You confirmed fuse B is good, so there should be power present at the coil.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, December 28th, 2022 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Well, my battery is no good. Won't hold a charge but I got some power to it and I got no reading on that plug at all. I put the red and black prongs in all 4 holes of the plugs in all scenarios and got nothing.
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Thursday, December 29th, 2022 AT 9:57 AM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
That plug goes around behind the back of the engine, where does it go exactly?
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Thursday, December 29th, 2022 AT 9:58 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,289 POSTS
Hi,

When you checked the connector for power, did you have the black connector on the battery negative and probe the pins, one at a time, with the red connector?

Also, let me know what color the wires are in the harness. I'm not sure what the harness is for as well. I'm not sure where to check in the schematics to identify them.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, December 29th, 2022 AT 8:31 PM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
The multimeter won't reach the negative post on my battery.
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Thursday, December 29th, 2022 AT 9:25 PM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Plus, my battery is no good. It's dead and won't hold a charge anymore.
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Thursday, December 29th, 2022 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,289 POSTS
Hi,

If the battery has failed, we really can't check the electrical circuits. As far as the multimeter not reaching the battery negative, as long as you have the black lead connected to a known good ground, that should be fine.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, December 29th, 2022 AT 9:49 PM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Got no reading from the plug. I used the meter like you said on the two settings in the pics. Nothing.
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Friday, December 30th, 2022 AT 8:57 AM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Hey Joe, I have been trying to send you a video on here of what's up on this car, but it won't upload. My name is Rodney if I haven't told you yet. I am sending a pic to see if it's normal wiring or what? That wiring with the yellow dots and the exposed wire is that good, or no?
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Friday, December 30th, 2022 AT 10:28 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,289 POSTS
Hi Rodney,

As far as the wiring is concerned, those appear to have been repaired and a product called heat shrink is used to insulate it.

Okay, in the pics below, which I copied from yours, take a look at pic 1. Keep in mind all multimeters are different, but I would think you want that set on 12v. Set it on 12v and simply test the power from the battery to confirm it shows 12v on the multimeter. Try it on the other settings you tried.

If you look at pic two, that should be the wire supplying power. Now I do have a question about the third pic.

I circled two things. On the right side of the pic appears to be the bare/broken wire. Is that correct? Also, I circled what appears to be a connector that is next to your finger. Is that correct?

Also, is the green wire with the yellow tracer connected in either of the wires in pic 3? If it is, we need to open up the heat shrink and see if there is power where the connection was made. We may have a problem at that point if it ultimately reaches the green/yellow wire.

Let me know. Also, if I don't hear from you right away, have a great New Year's Day.

Take care,

Joe
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Friday, December 30th, 2022 AT 10:32 PM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Pic 3 the circled parts, one was just some insulation and the one with the bare wire it folds back into the gray sleeve. So, cut open that yellow dot stuff and check for power somewhere?
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Saturday, December 31st, 2022 AT 10:04 AM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
What would be the problem if the power problem reached the green/yellow wire?
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Saturday, December 31st, 2022 AT 3:12 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,289 POSTS
Hi,

I am curious if the green/yellow has power to the connector and then it is lost due to an open circuit at the connector.

Let me know. Also, I hope you have a good New Year.

Joe
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Saturday, December 31st, 2022 AT 3:45 PM
Tiny
RODNEY JASON WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Okay Joe. Finally got a new battery, I tested the plug got nothing. Then I shaved a little off the green and orange wire to expose the wire and tested it with the key in the on position and got nothing.
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Wednesday, January 4th, 2023 AT 11:56 AM

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