Cranks no start

I got a new ECU which is synched based on VIN. But of course the key fob has to be programmed. I tried to login with my Autel but I cannot get to the step where it says program fob cause it keeps saying not able to communicate with ECU, and with the ignition on and key in slot, slot is not lit up like it used to when I was trying to start it and it would turn over, now it wont turn over at all and the alarm light is on the dash with the ignition on. Any suggestions? Would the not programmed fob even prevent it from turning over? Am trying to find out if it's a fob issue or something else. Same thing happened with the used ECU I purchased it wont turn over and my stupidity I deleted the registry on the key in trying to make it synch with the used ECU.

Also, isn't the fact that the fob slot isn't lighting up an indication that it isn't programmed to the car? If so, how am I able to turn the ignition on and all lights come on the dash, I tried to activate things manually with the scanner like the horn and it did respond so I don't understand.

Very strange, called a locksmith who programs these fobs and he could not communicate with the refurbished ECU. So, I told him let me put the old one back and see if it will work, so he was able to communicate with the old one and got the key slot to light up, and am back to where I started at least with it turning over.

Am sending it back for a refund, don't know what to do right now, get a used one for $40.00 and try to have it programmed to the key again or what. I wish there was a way to test whether a coil signal could get the car to run.

Can you tell me where the crank shaft sensor is and how to remove it please?

I know you guys are busy, so I kept looking and found it, it's a PITA but replaced it. Put a new battery, and tried, I got about 1/2 second of it starting so that's something different but then the battery started to get weaker. But it now sounds like it wants to start. I wish it would give me codes, only thing that is always there but not under current codes or pending but permanent are: p2133, p2119, which were there from before but I doubt these would stop the car from starting.

Also, the old crank shaft sensor was bone dry. Isn't it supposed to have oil on it like camshaft sensors?

Thanks for that. I will have it checked out. If I do, could that prevent it from starting? Also, when I spray starting fluid in one of them, sometimes the car would almost want to start, but the fuel pressure is good, and there was fuel coming out from where I measured the pressure, so is it possible that fuel is getting there bit injectors aren't firing?

Only thing they giving me is to check volts between pin 6 and ground and it has 5 volts, and there is continuity between ECM and throttle harness.

Thanks.

It does have 5 volts.

Sprayed starter fluid the other throttle and started for a second and shut off, that means there is spark but no fuel right? How do I know that injectors are firing even though there is fuel reaching the fuel pressure lines?

Have not gotten to check injectors yet as they are under the intake, got a spark plug tester and its weird it shows that it sparks only once when you try to start and then motor keeps turning. Same result on the spark plug itself against a ground or on the light tester used to check spark.

Am going to take a video of the cluster while starting. No, it's not on. Injectors are hard to reach I have to remove the intake to test them.