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No spark

Tiny
MSITTLE5
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
Hi. Any help is greatly appreciated. I tested the cam sensors for 12 volt and ground and I have both. Cam sensor is new and the resistance tests okay. But when I test the signal wire and turn the engine over by hand all I get is 10 volts. Off signal. It never switches to 0 volts. Both cam sensors do this. Cam sensor is from AutoZone and as I have learned they need to be OEM. So is it that these sensor just don't pick up the cam?
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Sunday, November 29th, 2020 AT 2:18 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
If you are turning the engine over and the sensor is reading 10 volts then it does sound like the sensor is faulty. I attached resistance testing that we need to run through just to see if there have an internal issue. I suspect the resistance readings will be off and show that they are the issue.

I have seen a number of times where the sensors are just wrong and do not function the way the PCM is expecting. So if your resistance is not correct then that would explain why your voltage is not changing.

Another way to confirm the sensor is the issue is to remove the sensor and connect it to the harness then monitor the signal wire and pass the magnet over a piece of metal. You should see it change. If not, it is confirming the sensor is not operating. Plus this is confirming the air gap is not the issue as well.

Let's run through this testing and go from there.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring
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Sunday, November 29th, 2020 AT 6:22 PM
Tiny
MSITTLE5
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Thank you for responding. I was just outside looking at the car and I had just changed out the cam sensors earlier and I have a couple old ones laying around so I plugged one in and back probes the Conn. Then I passed it by some metal and no change. I'm thinking it was aluminum though. The heads are aluminum aren't they? So does the cam sensor sensor aluminum? Or steel? Magnets don't pick up alum. At the scrapyard so another conundrum. I have to call it a night. But I'll be back on it tomorrow after work. Thanks again
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Sunday, November 29th, 2020 AT 9:04 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Yeah. It has to be steel. Aluminum is not magnetic so maybe get a video of it and the way you have your meter set up so that we can see the whole thing. Maybe something will jump out at us and we can figure this out. Just let us know whenever you get around to it. We will be here. Thanks
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Monday, November 30th, 2020 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
MSITTLE5
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Hi. I just recently got another scanner, turns out I have a code 1610 and 1613. Any thoughts?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 1:28 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Well that makes a little more sense. I am attaching the info for both codes. However, that is the cause of the no spark. The NATS system disables spark when there is an active code for it like this.

Let's run through this and go from there. Thanks
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 3:58 PM
Tiny
MSITTLE5
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
I waiting for a locksmith to reprogram me a key. I replaced the ECM and IMMU. I'll let you know what happens in a few.
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
MSITTLE5
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Okay, so the locksmith just reprogrammed me a key for a new IMMU. I also changed out the ECM but I didn't tell him that, because he would say it has to go to the dealer to reflash or whatever, but I'm not so sure I believe that. Anyways, I am getting different codes now and the NATS malfunction is gone. Code for TCC lockup, crank sensor, and IAT. So I've made some progress. Still hasn't fired up, but I think it's crank sensor related. I have to change the battery right now. I'll be back.
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 8:13 PM
Tiny
MSITTLE5
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
I changed out the crank sensor, sprayed a little starter fluid, and she started right up!
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 8:53 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
That is great progress. Did it stay running or did it stall out when the starter fluid ran out? This means you are getting spark and compression is fine. If it stalled out then we need to get into the fuel issue.

We do that by starting with confirming you have the basics. Think of it like building a house. You don't jump to what you think the end is unless you have good reason to like a code pointing you there. So if starter fluid gets it started, let's confirm the pressure is correct. Here is a guide to do that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Then if the pressure is correct we need to test the injectors. Here is how to do that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

This will tell us what the issue is. If the pressure is correct and the injectors are firing then you know you have an injector issue. However, if they are not firing then we need to find out why the control module is not grounding them.
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 7:07 PM

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