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No compression right side only

Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 DODGE DURANGO
  • 5.9L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Now I have already gotten a quote, the one mechanic I took it to showed me the gauge showing no compression but only on the right side. Do not worry I have tons of details.

1. Pre-issue. Burned a ton of oil, white smoke was something that happened even after it was warmed up. In fact it was worse the warmer it got. This was especially present during acceleration from stop light or stop sign.

2. Issue occurred while idling. One moment it was fine, I was sitting outside of work waiting for a co worker then BAM suddenly it starts idling so rough the inside of the cab was shaking to the point of rattling things.

3. In motion, it seems fine once in motion aside from having slight issues holding speed. Once warm it likes to flood out especially when accelerating from stopped and requires two feet to keep running. (I should mention before this happened I was noticing variable power loss and gain, so it was having a very slight issue maintaining speeds before but very very slight)

4. At idle rpm's range from.5-1 x1000. Its an up and down and up and down. When the engine is adding fuel to keep it running there is a slight hiss center rear of the engine near the firewall.

I have read up on possible other causes from blown piston to something as simple as the gasket going bad. What say you? I will add a video in a moment.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 9:16 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
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The vacuum leak could explain the hiss, the idle hunting or going up and down and even some of the misfiring, although I am wondering how the engine could have ran at all or even as well as you say with one bank having zero compression unless this just now happened.
I suppose you could have blown the head gasket in two spots between the front two cylinders on that bank and between the back 2 and the white smoke is actually the cooling being burnt in the combustion chamber. I would start with removing that head, checking and replacing the head gasket, fix that vacuum leak and see how that goes for now. Actually the head gasket will also have to be blown between a cylinder and the coolant jacket too in order for the white smoke and coolant being burnt.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 9:33 AM
Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
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Also, not sure if it is relevant but it still has enough power to spin the back tires from even fifteen to twenty mph. Still has a lot of power.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 9:37 AM
Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
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Sorry did not see your reply, was trying to get that video uploaded. But yeah it has tons of power and it goes. Once you get past what I believe to be flooding. Happens when she gets warm, cold not so much. The moment the temperature needle starts moving though you can bet at every stop sign or stop light it will try to shut off. Also when accelerating from a complete stop the warmer it gets the less it wants to go. This is what leads me to believe it is the gasket. Heat makes things expand and it is possible while really cold that it has compression until that gasket heats up and expands but that is all just common sense I have zero car experience. I am a computer/tech guy, lol. I do not even know if that is an actual hiss it could just be metal moving against metal for all I know, lol. That is why I came here for even an educated guess on what It could be. I really do not want to spend the quoted $1,300.00 and a gasket very well could be simple enough for me to fix on my own and obviously far less expensive that replacing the head entirely.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 9:42 AM
Tiny
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I would like to see the tailpipe in a video.
It seems very odd to me that an engine running at all can have four cylinders with zero compression. Was this compression test done cold or warm and did he repeat with a wet test, squirting in a little motor oil in the cylinder before the test to help seal the piston rings some? At least for now, try to find that vacuum leak and take a video of that tailpipe. Also, remove the radiator/degas cap and take a video showing if any air bubbles are coming up in the cooling system, remove the engine oil dipstick with engine off see if any coolant on the stick. Remove the engine oil fill cap and see if any smoke blows out when running or any exhaust like sounds. Does this have thrush mufflers or headers cause it sounds really loud.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 10:06 AM
Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Okay, no bubbles in coolant however there is two caps for that one appears inline and the other for reserve. Now I have never opened either because it never even hits half way on the gauge but the inline one positioned over a hose that one there is no fluid currently in the big hose. Reserve is full. Smoke/steam did come up from the oil fill area. No coolant on oil dip and levels are right where they should be. As for the test I have no idea aside from knowing it was warm. Guy just pulled me into the bay and showed me the no compression on the gauge which I do not know that I 100% trust the place I took it to. As for the pipe the back firing you heard has only been present since the issue started a few months ago. As for the pipe I will take a video but I am sure it is rusted all to heck. I only got this about six months ago from someone else. At that time the only known issue was that it burned oil and needed an auto tension-er pulley which it still does, lol. Also I just took it through town about five miles. I have never taken it more than a mile since it happened. So when I was checking all of that it was warm.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 10:23 AM
Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
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Video of exhaust kind of, lol.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 10:38 AM
Tiny
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You have a lot of blowby the piston rings, that is the reason for the steam/smoke out oil fill cap. It could be a broken piston ring or stuck oil control rings, or even clogged oil return holes in the head causing oil to backup and pool on top of the head, thus getting sucked in past valves and valve guides, even if the seals are good. Look for a leaking valve cover gasket, that is usually a sign them oil holes are clogged.
Did he show you the gauge on all them cylinders and if so, you must have watched him attach the gauge each time and crank the engine over with starter?
The steam/smoke might also or in addition to blowby, be caused by a blown head gasket between the crankcase passage and coolant and/or combustion chamber which leads me back again to removing that head to inspect the gasket and you might as well install new valve guides seals and check all the guides for any worn, that could suck in oil.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
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Sorry, I should have said tailpipe with the engine idling. I wanted to see if any smoke and what color if any smoke.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 12:39 PM
Tiny
STEVEN JAMES CARLINE
  • MEMBER
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There is not any while idling. As for where he put the gauge the engine was already running. As I showed before it can stay running. The oil pooling makes sense with the hesitation when attempting to accelerate from a complete stop which gets worse the longer you are sitting. He also only had it in one spot. And now that I am remembering it it was the left side around where the spark plug for the second cylinder in from the front of the engine.

Additionally I would not be doing any of the work myself. I do not even have the tools for it, lol. I will have to bring it in to get looked at but the original prognosis was left head bad, lol. As you said though running on only four cylinders should have at the least made it very weak. It will still spin the tires from a complete stop once it burns off whatever is keeping it from going, lol. After being on here it seems the most likely cause would be the seal or gasket. So that is what I will be looking to see if the next guy agrees on if they want to try and replace two entire heads on me like the last people.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 12:53 PM
Tiny
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So he show you zero compression on one cylinder, that does not mean for sure all four on that bank have zero compression cause if so all four would be misfiring and I doubt if the engine would even run, not to mention the one cylinder he has the tester hooked to will be misfiring cause the spark plug is out. I do not know why he would want to show you a compression gauge result while the engine is running anyhow, he should have shown you a normal compression test just using the starter to crank the engine over, so he would probably remove the fuel pump relay so the engine does not start, then show you each cylinder results so you know for sure all four have no compression, because I do not believe it.
If the engine only burns oil when reved up, then I would like to see the tailpipe when the engine is being reved up, cause if it burns oil, that is where it comes out, unless it just leaks oil.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2018 AT 1:23 PM

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