Codes P0440 and P0446

Hi,
Can I use general purpose silicone or acrylic or rubber or latex caulk as the RTV sealant between the new solenoid and the canister?
Can I use pipe joint compound as the sealant?

I tried removing the broken bolt shaft tonight but wasn't successful. I found out that the outer black plastic shell of the canister is very thin and not solid behind the broken bolt shaft. It is probably a little bit thicker than a credit card. There is no way it will hold enough JB Weld that is strong enough for a bolt or a captive nut. If I try to cut the broken shaft with a Dremmel tool, it will probably cut through the canister's thin plastic skin. A few photos are attached.
I can insert my finger through the solenoid hole and feel the huge fastener that is inside and behind the black plastic outer shell. The fastener which was previously mentioned as the captive nut, rotates along with the shaft. I cannot pull out the broken bolt shaft because the fastener inside the canister is huge, 4 to 6 times larger than the diameter of the broken bolt. There are hairline cracks on the thin plastic all around the broken bolt.
1. How do I remove the broken bolt shaft?
2. How do I fasten the new solenoid since the JB Weld method we discussed won't work?
3. How do I make the canister air-tight?

Buying a used canister come with the same risk of having hairline fractures. New canisters are too expensive.

The collar/spacer and the broken bolt shaft and the inside captive nut all rotate together. I need to remove them and replace and make everything air tight.

Photos are attached. I just removed the broken bolt shaft, collar/spacer and the captive nut.
Heating up a new captive nut and placing it in the cavity may not be a good option because it may not be an air tight solution as air may leak through the captive nut's threading, is there a way to make the new captive nut threading air tight?
Upside down bolt post is a good solution but how do I get the huge bolt head inside through the round cavity?
Do I need to test the canister for air tightness before re-attaching?
People are telling me crazy glue and baking soda may be a better solution to patch the hairline cracks and re-attaching the captive nut or upside down bolt, what do you think?

Bad luck, the replacement new solenoid is not holding a vacuum. I tested by energizing the solenoid with a car battery and then sucking air through the solenoid. The old solenoid holds a vacuum far better than the new one.

The silicone RTV sealants are thick and probably will not sip into the hairline cracks. I am also afraid it will also create a slight bulge if I spread a thin layer over the hairline cracks which will make the solenoid uneven against the canister. That's where super glue will probably work better because it flows like water and get inside the cracks easily. You have not recommended super glue so far. Is super glue not recommended for this purpose? Photos of adhesives I have are attached.

I am having hard time to reattach the rubber hose back to the canister. Is it okay to use Vaseline as lubricant on rubber hose and canister?

I used a little bit of transmission oil and the hose went in easily. Please disregard my last question. Heading out to the store to buy bolts and other supplies. I also need to stop by at the muffler shop to weld the hole in the exhaust pipe.

The exhaust pipe was completely cracked and hanging at the flange. The muffler shop took out the flange and welded a 6 inch straight pipe. After the welding was complete, the muffler shop pointed out a second but smaller hole that was an inch from where they welded, a 8 inch pipe would have covered both holes. The muffler shop wanted more money to patch the 2nd hole which they overlooked when inspected. They also pressured me to buy a whole Catalytic Converter package. I thought they were joking, but they were not.
I am going to use muffler cement or furnace cement (which I already have) to patch the 2nd small hole if the O2 sensor P0136 fault comes back.
All of the JB Weld items Walmart and Farm and Fleet had said, "works on some plastic." I was not sure what kind of plastic the canister is made from so I Bought some Permatex crazy glue. They did not have the JB Weld Liquid Rubber that works on plastic in stock.

Thanks for your comment. Is there any chance that either crazy glue or JB Weld will be broken down by the gas vapor?
The solenoid is normally open and allowing air to flow when not energized, correct?

I tried putting 2 rubber gaskets on the upside down bolt and tried to add 2 part JB Weld. The clearing between the post and the canister wall was so small and the JB Weld was so thick that I ended up putting a lot on the bolt thread and ruining it. I have new bolts. Is epoxy the best solution here?

I was thinking about using the orange rubber washers in the photo as a bolt head sealant inside the canister and then drip either thin epoxy or super glue from the top. Are those rubber washers a good idea or just go with bare metal upside down bolt head inside the canister?

I tried to seal the canister bolt hole with my own 2 ply orange rubber gasket and attached a nut on top as shown in the photos from earlier today. JB Weld method did not work, too thick for the tiny opening, just wasted a bolt.
As I mentioned on Sunday, the new solenoid is defective and not holding a vacuum when energized. I bought it online. The new-new replacement will arrive on Thursday.
After spraying with PB Blaster, transmission fluid and cleaning up with Brake Cleaner, the old solenoid now holds a vacuum, by mouth-air-sucking test.
The muffler shop welded back the exhaust pipe. Last night I patched the remaining hole with exhaust cement. All exhaust and O2 sensor related faults P0136, P1441, P0446 are gone.
So, I mounted the old solenoid with one bolt, sealed the other hole with my double orange rubber gaskets (see photo above). After driving for a hundred miles and several stops, the Torque Pro OBD2 app now shows only one of the the original fault code that is P0440. The car finally completed the EGR System test per Torque OBD2 reader which it could not complete for many weeks due to the fault codes.
When I opened the gas cap a few minutes ago, a whole bunch of air hissed and rushed inside the gas can, so my home made orange sealant gasket was holding a vacuum. Is that a correct assumption?
Waiting for your comment before doing the super glue fix.