Codes P0440 and P0446

Hello,

In the diagrams down below I have included the factory diagnostic troubleshooting guide for DTC P0446 for your vehicle. The instructions call for doing this DTC first. In order to go through this guide correctly you will need to have a vacuum pump, a multimeter, and a scan tool with PID capabilities. Please go through this guide and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

1) Diagram #8 gives you the order to test in.
2) Consult is the name that Nissan gave to it's factory version of a scan tool that is used by their technicians at the dealership.
3) Negative or No Go, take your pick.
4) No. It is for accessing the EVAP Monitor information and turning the Monitors ON/OFF.
5) No, that is "start", in this case on is "RUN", the position right before "start".
6) On the left rear underside of your vehicle.
7) No. They are available for just a refundable deposit at parts stores like AutoZone. You have to have a gauge for measurement, which the vacuum pump does.
8) No. Power and Ground provided by the Power-train Control Module(PCM).
9) I do not have the information available at this time. The coil just uses electricity provided by the PCM to move a plunger back and forth to allow vapor gases to pass. The more electricity the more plunger movement, so resistance here would be very low. The pressure sensor is probably different, but, like I said, I do not have that information available right now.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

Yes. The Vent Valve Solenoid should either be off or on and when energized you should here a click. The best thing to do here is just replace the solenoid. If you want to double check just to make sure. Run a voltage drop test on the circuit. This is the preferred way to check electrical circuits and will tell you where the bad segment of the circuit is with amazing clarity, revealing damaged segments you would never be able to find running continuity tests with the multi-meter in Ohms (Resistance) setting. Please go through the guide and get back to us with what you are able to figure out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

If it were me, I would get a Dremmel tool, and wearing safety glasses with side shields, I would grind the head of the bolt off. That way I could pull the charcoal canister off, and then extract the bolt shank and replace the bolt with a new one when I went to reinstall the charcoal canister. Please keep us informed.

P.S. I love your screen name.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

I understand what is going on. If the whole bolt rotates around and it is broken on the side of the head, you should be able to just pull the whole bolt through the hole on the charcoal canister. If that isn't possible, then I would grind the head of the broken bolt off with a Dremmel tool and a grinding wheel. Once the head of the bolt is off the EVAP Vent Solenoid should come right off, then you can see whats going on with the shank and address it better because you will better access to it. Please keep us informed.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

The RTV sounds like a great idea. Many gaskets have been made this way. I personally have put an entire engine together using red RTV for every gasket, save the head and exhaust manifold gaskets. The wire coat hanger, on the other hand, is a horrible idea. What is the issue you are having with the bolt/bolt hole there?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

Okay, can you use a Dremmel, again, and a cut off the shank of the bolt, drill the captive nut, tap it, JB Weld it in place and the put a new bolt in place? If this is too much, I would at least use black zip ties to secure the EVAP Vent Solenoid in place. They will work better and look better as well. When using zip ties it's a good attedge that 2 are 1 and 1 is none. Please let us know how it turns out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

There is no real wrong answer here. If it were me, I would take out broken piece and put a bolt in, JB Weld it with regular two part epoxy JB Weld and use a matching nut to fasten everything down. In the end though, all you are doing is fastening down the solenoid. Remember, there is more than one way to skin a cat. As long as the solenoid gets fastened to the canister, then that was the right way to do it. As far as the RTV goes, really any of them will work on this application. I would go ahead and use the black, just because all of parts you are working with, the charcoal canister and the solenoid are black as well. Please keep us informed.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

Okay, so DTC P0440 we know is an EVAP leak, and that is getting fixed. So let's take a look at the other two DTC's, and see what we got. In the diagrams down below I have included the factory diagnostic troubleshooting guides for DTC's P0136 and P1441. The exhaust manifold just unbolts. The bolts are usually rusty and baked in place, and can be a bear to break loose. Get a can of PB Blaster or WD40 and soak the bolts liberally and let soak overnight before attempting to break them loose. Go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros