Engine no start

Hello,

It sounds like you could have a fuse out but to be sure lets check the fuses using this guide with the fuse diagram below turn the key on before you begin.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse


This guide can help as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

I had to get a used ECU for the wrecking yard fired right up :) also I found correction on the eletecial connector I had to clean off, that may have done it as well.

Car ran just fine on the way to work. After 8 hours, I tried to start car to return home. The starter never engaged and there was no clicking noise. The battery is fine (headlights, radio, windows, fan, etc.) all operate. When I try to start the car I hear a faint buzz sound and then nothing. This happened a week ago and when I tried the car 3 days later it started and ran just fine. Could it be a faulty starter or ignition coil or is it the computer.

Hi marecanis,

It should not be the ECM when the starter don't crank.

No clicking noise means power is not getting to the starter solenoid so it probably is the ignition switch or starter relay.

Where did the buzz noise come from? If from the rear, it could be the fuel pump working.

Thanks KHLow2008,

The buzz noise is from the front and rear. Could it be the computer? The my wife said this happened over a year ago and Nissan told her it was something with the computer.

Or could there be a dead cell in the battery?

Thanks.

[quote:4d9e96f1dd="KHLow2008"]Hi marecanis,

It should not be the ECM when the starter don't crank.

No clicking noise means power is not getting to the starter solenoid so it probably is the ignition switch or starter relay.

Where did the buzz noise come from? If from the rear, it could be the fuel pump working.[/quote:4d9e96f1dd]

Hi marecanis,

The computer would not give any buzzing noise, maybe some relays.

There are many possibilites why the starter did not crank.

If there is a clicking noise, then either starter or battery.

If there is no clicking noise, you need to check for power input to ignition switch and output to starter relay.

If your car is equipped with immobilizer, you need to check the key. Try using the spare key.

Are the gear shift position indicator lights working? It could also be the inhibitor switch.

I have a 2000 nissan sentra with 1.6 n it cranks but it won't start up and it's not getting any fire and I check my fuel pump to c if its giving out gas n it is I started having a problem when i let my car sit and I try to drive my car n A few miles it start to jurk when I push d gas I have gas n it. Then I turn it off n back on it I drove back home since then I move d car to another parking lot And it won't start back up

So do you have spark?Also have you checked to see what your actual fuel pressure is?Have you checked for codes in the computer?

it's been a really good car(reliable)no problems with it before,yesterday we stop at the gas station to put gas,turned off car,when trying to go home we disable the alarm(factory),got in the car,nothing it will not start,everything else works,light,stereo,power windows,all,but it just won't start,so i disconnected the battery,thinking it was the engine demobilizer from the alarm,after a few seconds,put it back,nothing,checked battery,is good,the only way it works is by pushstarting it,the starter itself does not make anyclicking noises when trying to start the car,im going to check the switch thats behind the clutch pedal(there's 2)to see if thats the problem,ANY OTHER IDEAS, i should try,thanks you guys,this is my first time on this site,i think is great to have something like this and somebody pro's like you guys helping all of us with our problems!!!!!!!!! thanks again....ZAMCHO(from New Mexico).............

Try the fuse and interlock relay see below start circuit diagram

The car was working fine, made a 30 minutes stop and then the car would not start. Every light works but the car would not start.

[quote:034c3f7353="popo22"]2000 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 141000 miles

The car was working fine, made a 30 minutes stop and then the car would not start. Every light works but the car would not start.[/quote:034c3f7353]

I have same car with same mileage with same problem. Mine sporatic, will start with a couple of tries. I belive it is an electrical problem, still looking.
When car does not start mine will crank, but will start later. This has happened while driving, cold starts, and warm starts. this has happened in dry and wet weather, nothing consistant.
One thing that I noticed, when starting usually the check engine light will come on, but when the car will just crank, the check engine light does not come on. I still think electrical, but need help.

I have found my problem, brother in law did, while car was running he jiggled wires. A wire harness from from the fuse box, near battery that runs under the battery, after he jiggled it the car shut off. Pulled out battery and battery box he found a wire that was bulged. We suspect that some battery acid may have dripped down and comprmised the wire. We cut out bad section and spliced together and sealed up the wire and have not encountered any problems.

Car will start but will not idle right. Starts to stumble then quits. When it starts it will not move with out stalling nor can you revit up. I have installed new pump and fuel pressue regulator. Removed injectors and blew them out with compressed air. Pressure at idle is 34 psi and it increases to 45 if you remove the vacuum line from the fuel regulator. If you partially restict the fuel return line and bring the pressure up to 55 psi the engine works much better but still not perfect. Would it possibly be the coolant sensor or the mat sensor ????

IT could be a many different sensors that could cause this. Does outside temp affect this or is it the same no matter what? Also, has the check engine light come on? Have you had the throttl position sensor tested? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Let me know.

Joe

Temerature does not seem to make any difference. No check engine light has not come on. Looked for vacuum leaks none found. Have not checked the throttle position sensor yet. When I changed the pump and filter the old ones were quite dirty. The tank was clean inside.

Just for the heck of it, check the new fuel filter to make sure it isn't plugging. There may have been something you didn't see in the tank. Also, I was thinking about this after I posted. Check the EGR valve to make sure it isn't clogged with carbon.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Checked car with scan tool. Mil light burn:t out. Found 8 codes. These are the codes as follows
1. PO 171
2. PO 300
3. PO 732
4. P. 1140
5. PO 110
6. PO 300
7. P. 1140
8. PO 455
I think my problem after testing some sensors might be the IAT sensor and the MAF sensor. My reasoning is that when I remove the plug from the MAF the idle improved. The readings for the IAT were way off of the actual temperature readings at the time. What do you think

I agree. That is where I would start. You may want to try cleaning it first to see if that helps.

My 2000 Nissan Sentra GXE will not start. I have replaced Cam and Crank Sensors. I did this and the car started and ran fine for a day. I was on my way home from school and the car died going 65mph on the highway. Funny thing is, the RPM's dropped to 0 as I was going 65mph. They read 0 for about a mile or so. Finially the car started bogging down then up, down then up and eventually died. Now it will crank, but will not turn over! OBD port will not power ANY reader at all--Zero Power to OBD port. Please help!!!!

Hi, First I'd Check all The fuses ,See If They are good .Then I'd Take a Test Light At The OBD 2 Connector And See if Power Has Returned there ,If Still No power There ,Then Check the computer. For Power and grounds.if everything checks out you may need a computer.But They Do not Go Bad To often In these Cars. i'd Get A second Opinion .See A Mechanic And have it checked out.



Hope This Helps You,
Good Luck
Edward S.

Ok, I did check all of the fuses and i hooked up a volt meter to the OBD port. Only one of the slots on the OBD port had any volts. It was registerd at 10 volts with the car on accessory. This was a green wire. No power at all with car off of accessory. How to I check the Computer to the car? Thanks for your reply!

Hi,See If you Have ground at The Obd2 connector Also.Check your Battery That It's Fully charged.To Check the computer ,Power And Grounds ,You need a wiring Diagram Of the computer, Look at the diagram And see Where You have Battery ,also Ignition feed ,and grounds.Carefully Check With a dvom meter.If you Have Power and ground at the Obd2 Connector ,Then you should be able To get codes Out of the computer. I'd Check This first.



Hope This Helps You,
Good Luck
Edward S.

Car would not start. Got new alternator, then new battery. Still will not start. Can jump car and it will start, but it can and will fall dead while idling. Checked alternator by disconnecting battery while running, car still ran so alternator is okay. Not sure what to look at next.

First never remove cables on a running car! This can damage ecm. Next check the negative cable, this can be corroded to the point that not enough power gets too the ecm and starter.

sometimes the car won't start and makes a clicking noise when turning the key to start.

Do you have a multimeter to do some testing?Have you had the alternator and battery tested yet?Did you make sure the battery cables are clean and tight?Is the clicking when it doesn't start coming from the starter?

ever since i needed to jump my car because of a dead battery, whenever i start to drive, the rmp shoots up to about 2 but the acceleration is very bad. also, the rmp and the speed does not match, for example if i am driving 40mph it would be on 2 rmp, or 60 mph on 3 1/2 rmp. every once in a while the car runs fine, as in the rmp and the speed matches and the rpm does not shoot up when i start to drive. its been like this for about a month now. what is wrong?

Do you have any codes or is the Check Engine Light On?

I have the same car and that happened to me. I got a new battery and it has been fine.

That's actually a good point. Have you replaced the battery or had the charging system checked?