My car will not crank over, new battery and starter

Tiny
MOMMAMJ
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  • 3 POSTS
  • 2005 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES

My car would not start so we had to get a jump it started fine. The next day it started okay, but later that night It would not start at all it just did rapid clicking noises. We put a new battery in it and it still would not start it just clicked once and then nothing. We replaced the starter and try starting it and it still just clicks once and does not start. I am beyond confused. It is our only form of transportation and have no idea what to do now. Please someone help me!

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Monday, August 24th, 2015 AT 1:38 PM

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Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Your first two sentences suggest the battery was run down, most likely from a system draw. A different battery will solve that until it runs down too.

Here is a guide to help you see what to problem is:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

In your third sentence, unless the new battery was also discharged, you likely have a loose or dirty battery cable connection. You can verify that by turning on the head lights and watching their brightness. Typically you will see they are fairly bright, then when you try to crank the engine, they get real dim or go out. You can quickly figure out which cable connection is causing the problem with a voltmeter, but if you do not have one, you may also see one of the cable clamps spark or smoke when a helper tries to crank the engine.

Once the cables are repaired, have your mechanic test the charging system. If you do have a voltmeter, measure the battery voltage with the engine running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it is low, the battery will never fully charge. If the voltage is okay, the second half of the test requires a professional load tester to measure full-load output current and "ripple" voltage. If output current is one third of the alternator's maximum rated current, and ripple voltage is high, there is a failed diode in the alternator. 30 amps from the common 90 amp alternator is not enough to run the entire electrical system under all conditions. The battery will have to make up the difference until it slowly runs down.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

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Monday, August 24th, 2015 AT 4:19 PM
Tiny
MOMMAMJ
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Okay. It is a brand new battery four days old. Not tried cranking it in three days. The new starter is in. And the positive cable is brand new as well and all other cables are tight and clean. There was a build up of corrosion on the positive terminal and cable so we replaced the cable and cleaned the terminal. But when we jumped it over it had build up on the terminal again so we cleaned it again and jumped it and drove it four hundred miles and parked it. The next day it would not start and that is when we replaced the battery and still nothing so we replaced the starter. And still nothing it will not start. So this can be the alternator?

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2015 AT 10:28 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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First we have to determine if the battery is being run down by a drain when everything is supposed to be off, or if it is not getting recharged by the alternator when the engine is running. Start by measuring the battery voltage with an inexpensive digital voltmeter. A good, fully-charged battery will measure 12.6 volts. A good, but run-down battery will read close to 12.2 volts. That one needs to be charged at a slow rate for an hour or two. If you find it near 11 volts or less, it has a shorted cell and must be replaced.

Once your battery is at 12.6 volts, there will be no problem cranking the engine if the cables and connections are in good shape. When the engine is running, measure the battery's voltage again. You must find between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If the voltage stays around 12.6 volts or less, the alternator is not recharging the battery. At most you will get about an hour of driving time before the battery runs out, and less if the heater fan, head lights, radio, or other accessories are on. If the voltage is within that acceptable range, that just means the alternator is doing something. It still can have a problem that causes it to be able to deliver only one third of its rated current. That will also lead to a run-down battery, but it will take longer for that to occur.

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Wednesday, August 26th, 2015 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
MOMMAMJ
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Battery is fully charged and starter is brand new. Positive cable is brand new. It is not a battery issue since it is fully charged and brand new. The car would not start after the new battery was put in and the starter was put on. How does this affect a alternator? My old battery was six years old and junk, so we replaced it and boom all of a sudden now the car will not start. And will not start with a new starter either. Then I checked out the article you gave me and checked the seat switch and sure enough the switch has stuck and the seat motor almost red hot. Once I replaced the switch the problem went away. Thanks 2CarPros.

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Wednesday, August 26th, 2015 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Glad to hear you got it fixed. Before I left the dealership in 1999, so I deferred to a former student who works for a Chrysler dealer. There are two things to consider. The first is my standard test for a "voltage drop", which is just a different way of finding a bad connection. Watch the brightness of the headlights or interior lights when you try to crank the engine. If they get real dim or go out, there is a bad connection we have to find. That is where voltage drop tests come in to play.

If they do not dim, the starter system is not even trying to engage. That used to be commonly caused by a failing neutral safety switch, but today that is much more likely to be caused by a computer. It is standard practice now to use some type of memory saver device when replacing the battery so all the dozens of computers retain their memories. You may have some computers that need to be reprogrammed before they will allow the engine to crank. That is a trick GM came up with to make money from their unsuspecting customers, and unfortunately, most other manufacturers followed their lead a few years later. If it comes to that, I will have to get my student involved.

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Thursday, August 27th, 2015 AT 12:08 AM
Tiny
CLAY W EATON
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  • 12 POSTS
  • 2005 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC

Will not crank dtc po688 asd circut fault. Can this code cause a no crank/start?

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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If the ASD relay goes it will shutdown the coil and injectors therefore no start.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CLAY W EATON
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Understand but the real question is, why will not it crank let alone start?

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Could be the starter, starter relay, transmission position switch and ignition switch, assuming the battery condition and connections are good.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CLAY W EATON
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Starter okay, can jump solenoid, it cranks, tested relay okay. Can ground out and it will crank tested park neutral switch okay, still will not crank. Lost power or ground to ASD, fuel relay starter relay last resort PCM and as Genesys diagnostic tool fast fix stated PCM may be the only thing to repair this problem. I have been repairing auto and class 8 trucks for over thirty years and have never ran across this problem. I was replacing the timing belt and water pump and started car it ran but not right. Fault code cam and crank not in sync. Changed timing again went to start cranked over no compression timing of again. The problem I am having is there are two marks on each cam gear lined up one cylinder and set crank on oil pump mark and went to start nothing. I have never given up and now I am asking for help.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEN123
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  • 2004 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 109,000 MILES

Will not crank over. New battery, new ignition switch, new crank sensor. You can cross the starter over and it will crank. No blown fuses.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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How about neutral safety switch?

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEN123
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I tried to start it in neutral and it still will not crank.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Is it cranking over and will not start or just will not crank over at all/nothing when key at cranking position?

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEN123
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Nothing at the key at the crank position.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Test the NSS as suggested by Doc

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEN123
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Okay, tested the switch and it is good. I can take the starter relay out and cross it over there but still will not start.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BEECH5DANE
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  • 2004 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 96,500 MILES

We have tested voltage at the starter relay and there is power used a jump wire at the starter relay and it cranks over but will not start. Tested the starter solenoid with a test light at the low voltage prong and when turn the key is turned over test light does not illuminate. When we unplug the neutral safety switch and use the test light and turn the key over there is not illumination on either prong of wires. Could this possibly be the ignition switch. Or PCM. Or could you help us on how to further test the ignition switch or PCM.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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How was NSS tested?

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Which engine do you have?

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)

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