My car wont crank over, new battery and starter

Tiny
MOMMAMJ
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES

My car wouldn't start so we had to get a jump it started fine. The next day it started ok but later that night It wouldn't start at all it just did rapid clicking noises. We put a new battery in it and it still wouldn't start it just clicked once and then nothing. We replaced the starter and try starting it and it still just clicks once and don't start. I'm beyond confused. Its our only form of transportation and have no idea what to do now. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME?

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Monday, August 24th, 2015 AT 1:38 PM

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Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Your first two sentences suggest the battery was run down, most likely from a system draw. A different battery will solve that until it runs down too.

Here is a guide to help you see what to problem is.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

In your third sentence, unless the new battery was also discharged, you likely have a loose or dirty battery cable connection. You can verify that by turning on the head lights and watching their brightness. Typically you'll see they're fairly bright, then when you try to crank the engine, they get real dim or go out. You can quickly figure out which cable connection is causing the problem with a voltmeter, but if you don't have one, you may also see one of the cable clamps spark or smoke when a helper tries to crank the engine.

Once the cables are repaired, have your mechanic test the charging system. If you do have a voltmeter, measure the battery voltage with the engine running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it is low, the battery will never fully charge. If the voltage is okay, the second half of the test requires a professional load tester to measure full-load output current and "ripple" voltage. If output current is one third of the alternator's maximum rated current, and ripple voltage is high, there is a failed diode in the alternator. 30 amps from the common 90 amp alternator is not enough to run the entire electrical system under all conditions. The battery will have to make up the difference until it slowly runs down.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

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Monday, August 24th, 2015 AT 4:19 PM
Tiny
MOMMAMJ
  • MEMBER

Ok. Its a brand new battery. 4 days old. Not tried cranking it in 3 days. The new starter is in. And the positive cable is brand new as well and all other cables are tight and clean. There was a build up of corrosion on the positive terminal and cable so we replaced the cable and cleaned the terminal. But when we jumped it over it had build up on the terminal again so we cleaned it again and jumped it and drive it 400 miles and parked it. The next day it wouldn't start and that's when we replaced the battery and still nothing so we replaced the starter. And still nothing it won't start. So this can be the alternator?

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2015 AT 10:28 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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First we have to determine if the battery is being run down by a drain when everything is supposed to be off, or if it's not getting recharged by the alternator when the engine is running. Start by measuring the battery voltage with an inexpensive digital voltmeter. A good, fully-charged battery will measure 12.6 volts. A good, but run-down battery will read close to 12.2 volts. That one needs to be charged at a slow rate for an hour or two. If you find it near 11 volts or less, it has a shorted cell and must be replaced.

Once your battery is at 12.6 volts, there will be no problem cranking the engine if the cables and connections are in good shape. When the engine is running, measure the battery's voltage again. You must find between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If the voltage stays around 12.6 volts or less, the alternator is not recharging the battery. At most you'll get about an hour of driving time before the battery runs dead, and less if the heater fan, head lights, radio, or other accessories are on. If the voltage is within that acceptable range, that just means the alternator is doing something. It still can have a problem that causes it to be able to deliver only one third of its rated current. That will also lead to a run-down battery, but it will take longer for that to occur.

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Wednesday, August 26th, 2015 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
MOMMAMJ
  • MEMBER

Battery is fully charged and starter is brand new. Positive cable is brand new. Its not a battery issue since it is fully charged and brand new. The car wouldn't start after the new battery was put in and the starter was put on. How does this affect a alternator? My old battery was 6 yrs old and junk, so we replaced it and boom all of a sudden now the car won't start. And won't start with a new starter either. Then I checked out the article you gave me and checked the seat switch and sure enough the switch has stuck and the seat motor almost red hot. Once I replaced the switch the problem went away. Thanks 2Capros

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Wednesday, August 26th, 2015 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Glad to hear you got it fixed. Before I left the dealership in '99, so I deferred to a former student who works for a Chrysler dealer. There are two things to consider. The first is my standard test for a "voltage drop", which is just a different way of finding a bad connection. Watch the brightness of the headlights or interior lights when you try to crank the engine. If they get real dim or go out, there is a bad connection we have to find. That's where voltage drop tests come in to play.

If they do not dim, the starter system is not even trying to engage. That used to be commonly caused by a failing neutral safety switch, but today that is much more likely to be caused by a computer. It is standard practice now to use some type of memory saver device when replacing the battery so all the dozens of computers retain their memories. You may have some computers that need to be reprogrammed before they will allow the engine to crank. That is a trick GM came up with to make money from their unsuspecting customers, and unfortunately, most other manufacturers followed their lead a few years later. If it comes to that, I'll have to get my student involved.

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Thursday, August 27th, 2015 AT 12:08 AM
Tiny
CLAY W EATON
  • 2005 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC

2005 pt cruser wont crank dtc po688 asd circut fault can this code cause a no crank start

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

If the ASD relay goes-it'll shutdown the coil and injectors-therefore no start

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CLAY W EATON
  • MEMBER

Understand but the real question is why wont it crank let alone start

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Could be the starter, starter relay, transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CLAY W EATON
  • MEMBER

Starter ok can jump solinoid it cranks tested relay ok can ground out and it will crank tested park nutral switch ok still wont crank lost power or ground to asd fuel relay starter relay last resort pcm and as Genesys dianostic tool fast fix stated PCM may be the only thing to repair this problem I have been repairing auto and class 8 trucks for over 30 years and have never ran across this problem I was replacing the timing belt and water pump and started car it ran but not right fault code cam and crank not in sync changed timing again went to start cranked over no comp timing of again the problem iam having is there are two marks on each cam gear lined up 1cyl and set crank on oil pump mark and went to start nothing I have never given up and now I am asking for help

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEN123
  • 2004 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 109,000 MILES

2004 PT Crusier, will not crank over, New battery, New ignition switch, new crank sensor, and you can cross the starter over and it will crank, No blown fuses

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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How about neutral safety switch?

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEN123
  • MEMBER

I tried to start it in neutral and it still will not crank

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Is it cranking over and will not start or just won't crank over at all/nothing when key at cranking position?

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEN123
  • MEMBER

Nothing at the key at the crank position

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Test the NSS as suggested by Doc

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEN123
  • MEMBER

Ok tested the switch and it is good, I can take the starter relay out and cross it over there but still will not starter.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BEECH5DANE
  • 2004 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 96,500 MILES

We have tested voltage at the starter relay and there is power used a jump wire at the starter relay and it cranks over but will not start. Tested the starter solenoid with a test light at the low voltage prong and when turn the key is turned over test light does not illuminate. When we unplug the netural safety switch and use the test light and turn the key over there is not illumination on either prong of wires. Could this possibly be the ignition switch. Or pcm. Or could you help us on how to further test the ignition switch or pcm.

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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How was NSS tested?

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Which engine do you have?

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Wednesday, December 27th, 2017 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)

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