Long cranking after truck sits for a while

Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 TOYOTA TACOMA
  • 2.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
Just changes fuel filter, air filter, and oil and oil filter. Truck was taking forever to start. Would crank sometimes 45 seconds before it started to fire. Once it does catch I have to continue holding the starter and hold the pedal to the floor. It runs rough for about 30 seconds until I rev it up a few times then runs great. If it’s warm, it fires right up. If it’s sat for a few hours it takes 45 seconds plus to crank and start again. I tried to test the fuel pressure but I don’t know where on the inlet line to connect. I do not have an adapter. Could it be fuel pressure regulator because I have plenty of fuel coming through the return line?
Wednesday, November 11th, 2020 AT 6:25 PM

25 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Hi,

It sounds like you are getting too much fuel. When you hold the pedal to the floor, the injectors shut down to eliminate a flooding issue. Is it possible for you to make a video with your phone of what it is doing so I can see it? Also, is there a smell of raw fuel when it does finally start?

_____________________________

Here are the directions specific to testing fuel pressure on this vehicle. Note that there is no schrader valve to connect the gauge. You need to do it at the fuel line. See the attached pics.

____________________________

1997 Toyota Truck Tacoma Extra Cab 4WD L4-2693cc 2.7L DOHC MFI
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
FUEL PRESSURE INSPECTION

1. INSPECT FUEL PRESSURE
(a)Check that the battery positive voltage is above 12 volts.
(b)Disconnect the negative (-) terminal cable from the battery.

Pic 1

(c)Remove the union bolt and 2 gaskets, and disconnect the fuel inlet pipe from the delivery pipe.

HINT:
- Put a suitable container or shop rag under the delivery pipe.
- Slowly loosen the union bolt.

Pic 2

(d)Install the fuel inlet pipe and SST (pressure gauge) to the delivery pipe with the 3 gaskets and SST (union bolt). SST 09268-45012

Torque: 29 N.M (300 kgf. Cm, 22 ft. Lbf)

(e)Wipe off any splattered gasoline.

Pic 3

(f)Connect the Toyota hand-held tester to the DLC3.
(g)Turn the ignition switch on and Toyota hand-held tester main switch on.

Notice: Do not start the engine.

(h)Select the active test mode on the Toyota hand-held tester.
(i)Please refer to the Toyota hand - held tester operator 5 manual for further details.
(j)If you have no Toyota hand-held tester, connect the positive (+) and negative (-) leads from the battery to the fuel pump connector.
(k)Reconnect the negative (-) terminal cable to the battery.
(l)Turn the ignition switch on.
(m)Measure the fuel pressure.

Fuel pressure: 265-304 kPa (2.7-3.1 kgf/sq. Cm, 38-44 psi)

If pressure is high, replace the fuel pressure regulator.
If pressure is low, check these parts:
- Fuel hoses and connections
- Fuel pump
- Fuel filter
- Fuel pressure regulator
- Injectors

(n)Remove the Toyota hand-held tester.
(o)Start the engine.
(p)Measure the fuel pressure at idle.

Fuel pressure: 206-255 kPa (2.1-2.6 kgf/sq. Cm, 31-37 psi)

If pressure is not as specified, check the vacuum sensing hose and fuel pressure regulator.
(q)Stop the engine.
(r)Check that the fuel pressure remains as specified for 5 minutes after the engine has stopped.

Fuel pressure: 147 kPa (1.5 kgf/sq. Cm, 21 psi) or more

If pressure is not as specified, check the fuel pump, pressure regulator and/or injector.
(s)After checking fuel pressure, disconnect the negative (-) terminal cable from the battery and carefully remove the SST to prevent gasoline from splashing. SST 09268-45012

(t)Reconnect the fuel inlet pipe to the delivery pipe with 2 new gaskets and the union bolt.

Torque: 29 N.M (300 kgf. Cm, 22 ft. Lbf)

(u)Reconnect the negative (-) terminal cable to the battery.
(v)Check for fuel leakage.

______________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, November 11th, 2020 AT 6:36 PM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
It does have a bit of fuel smell as I try to start. I will send a video once it has sat for a little while. But if I let it crank without pedal pushed in it tries to catch better but won’t keep running until I floor it. Second thing I just noticed today is at 75 mph I top out. I can floor it and it will not accelerate anymore and it won’t down shift. At 65 it will downshift just fine and rev nicely.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 6:18 AM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
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  • 16 POSTS
Here is a video of the start. It misses when no gas, then when I floor it the catch starts to happen.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Do me a favor. I want to see if it is a low fuel pressure issue. Do the following:

1) Turn the key from off to the on position (engine off) and count to five.

2) Turn the key off and then repeat step 1 three more times.

3) After you follow steps 1 and 2, see if it starts normally.

Let me know what happens.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
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  • 16 POSTS
It did not help. And when it’s turning over when I push the gas pedal down it seems like the rpm slows down with the starter. Like I increase compression.
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Friday, November 13th, 2020 AT 6:30 AM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
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I did replace the fuel pressure regulator as well.
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Friday, November 13th, 2020 AT 6:31 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Do you have a live data scan tool? If you do, check the temperature signal from the sensor before starting it (cold engine) to see if it is accurate. If it is off, it could be causing an extremely rich fuel mixture.

Let me know if that is something you can do.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, November 13th, 2020 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
A friend of mine does. He said I could use it Monday. What should the temperature be cold? Air temperature?
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Friday, November 13th, 2020 AT 8:08 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Before starting the engine, it should be very close to the ambient temperature. For example, if it is 60°F outside, the sensor should indicate approximately the same temperature.

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, November 13th, 2020 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
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So we plugged into the OBD 1 port, I got a code of C2849. From what I’m reading is it is the O2 sensor? Does that sound like something that could be the problem?
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Monday, November 16th, 2020 AT 9:58 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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An O2 sensor can cause an issue simply because it is what tells the computer how rich or lean the engine is running. However, I am not seeing that code for this year make and model. What did you find so I can review it and determine if it is relevant.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, November 16th, 2020 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
A Tua ply I can’t find it now. One other symptom. It smells flooded. Then when I finally get it started and keep it about 1,500-2,000 RPM's it runs smooth as silk. But if I let off it wants to shut off until it’s warm. But while it’s warming if I press the gas pedal fast it almost shuts off.
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 9:03 AM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
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Actually*
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 9:03 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Honestly, it sounds like a fuel pressure issue or a coolant temp sensor problem. Have you checked fuel pressure to make sure it is within spec?
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2020 AT 8:28 PM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
I put in a new fuel pump. Started right up. Drove it 25 miles to work and it sat for 8 hours. Tried to start and it did the same thing. I’m going to put a new battery in because I think this 4 year old one has about had it.
If the new battery doesn’t help, is there a way to check the coil packs?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 2:42 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Yes, you can check the coils. Here are the directions. The attached pic correlates with the directions.

_________________

1997 Toyota Truck Tacoma Regular Cab 4WD L4-2693cc 2.7L DOHC MFI
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Ignition System Ignition Coil Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics

Component tests and general diagnostics
Ignition coil inspection

1. Disconnect high-tension cords from ignition coils
2. Disconnect ignition coil connectors

pic 1

3. Inspect secondary coil resistance
using an ohmmeter. Measure the resistance between the positive (+) and high-tension terminals.

Secondary coil resistance
cold: 9.7 - 16.7 k ohms
hot: 12.4 - 19.6 k ohms

if the resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.
4. Reconnect ignition coil connectors
5. Reconnect high-tension cords from ignition coils

_______________________________

Let me know.
Joe
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 6:53 PM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
12.18 on one and 12.47 on the other.
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Is that the resistance with it cold? If so, the coil is out of spec. If it is when it's hot, it seems good. Did you check it both cold and hot?

Joe
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
DOUGANDLAURA44
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
No, I just checked cold. But your message earlier said between 9.7 - 16.7 cold. I thought 12 would have been good cold?
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Yes, you are correct. That is within spec. I was asking because if it was hot, then it wouldn't have been.

You know, I'm going to mention your vehicle to the site owner. He is very good at diagnostics. Let's see if he has other ideas.

Joe
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2020 AT 8:06 PM

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