Jeep does not crank when the key is turned to the ON position.

Tiny
BURTONSNWBOARD
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 JEEP CJ7
  • 4.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 144,000 MILES
I started the Jeep just fine in the morning. After turning it off, I disconnected the battery briefly. While reconnecting the positive side of the battery, I clipped a metal rod with the wrench and caused a spark. I thought nothing of it and tightened the battery wire back down. Well now the Jeep no longer cranks when turning the key to the ON position.

I can bypass the Solenoid Switch and get the jeep to crank and turn on. I can also run 12V to the Ignition Rod on the Solenoid and get the Jeep to crank and turn on. So I know the Solenoid is not the problem, nor the Starter.

What other possibilities could it be? I am thinking ignition switch because the Jeep runs fine (aside from some sputtering).
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Friday, March 25th, 2016 AT 3:36 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
ALLRIGHTY BUDDY

I'M GONNA HAVE YOU CHECK THE 1ST THING THAT COMES TO MY MIND

KINDA PAY NO ATTENTION TO THE WAY I HAVE MINE WIRED (THERE IS A GOOD REASON FOR IT THOUGH)

OK, LET'S LOOK AT THE SOLENOID AREA WIRING

YOUR POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE IS ON ONE POST OF THE SOLENOID AND ALL OF THE WIRES THAT RUN THE JEEP ARE STACKED ON RIGHT BESIDE IT

ON THE OTHER BIG POST IS THE STARTER WIRE ONLY

BACK TO THE POSITIVE POST!

SEVERAL SMALLER WIRES AGAINST THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE HAVE WHAT WE CALL

"FUSIBLE LINKS"

THEY ARE A BASICALLY A WIRE FUSE

THEY WILL PROBABLY BE THE BEGINNING OF THE WIRE(S) AND ONLY RUN A FEW INCHES BEFORE TURNING INTO A REGULAR WIRE

YOU HAVE SEEN 'EM MANY TIMES AND THOUGHT IT WAS JUST A WIRE

LIKE I SAID, THEY ARE ONLY A FEW INCHES LONG!

WHEN THEY "BURN UP", THEY WILL BE USUALLY ONE OF THREE SITUATIONS

BURNED IN TWO

BUBBLY OR FAT SQUISHY INSULATION

LOOKS FINE, BUT IF YOU SORTA PULL ON THE WIRE, IT WILL STRETCH OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND (INTERNAL WIRE IS DISINTEGRATED)

IF THIS IS YOUR CASE

CUT OUT ONLY THE FUSIBLE LINK AND REPLACE IT WITH ANOTHER

IF YOU DON'T, THIS MIGHT HAPPEN, SEE MY LINK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9B_9dWQukGY

LEMME KNOW WHICH WIRE (AND COLOR), I'LL SEE IF I CAN ROUND UP THE CORRECT AMP RATING SO YOU CAN GET A NEW ONE AT THE PARTS STORE

IF YOU NOTICE IN MY PICS MOST ARE NOT MARKED

(ONE OF THE NEW ONES I INSTALLED ON MY 1946 WILLYS HAS A TAG ON IT) YOURS PROBABLY HAS NOT TAGS

3 AND 4 ARE FUSIBLE LINKS ON MY '46

PICS BELOW

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, March 25th, 2016 AT 6:37 PM
Tiny
BURTONSNWBOARD
  • MEMBER
Thank you for the quick reply. Aside from the battery positive cable on that side of the solenoid, there are two additional wires. I will have to check them tomorrow, it's a bit dark here on the East Coast. However, my thinking is that those two wires wouldn't have an affect on the ignition. Currently my Ignition Wire is running to the D post in your picture (It's the purple wire in the attached picture. I took this in the process of disconnecting everything.) If I throw 12V at that post, the engine begins to crank and starts just fine. Would the fusible links affect ignition?

I will keep you updated, I plan on being back out there early tomorrow.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, March 25th, 2016 AT 7:19 PM
Tiny
BURTONSNWBOARD
  • MEMBER
I went ahead and traced the wires all the way back to the fuse box. Each wire from the solenoid switch is just one single wire, I did not find any issues with them from the solenoid to the fuse box.

The wires in the picture:
Purple Wire = Ignition Switch
Middle Red Wire = Alt Power
Bottom Red Wire = Solenoid Power

I also checked a few fuses in the fuse box, I couldn't find any blown fuses that could possibly prevent the key from cranking the ending.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 26th, 2016 AT 11:50 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
LOOKS LIKE IT'S BEEN REWIRED

THEREFORE I SORTA CAN'T (WON'T) TRUST WIRE COLORS, I WILL TRUST ACTUALLY FINDING OUT WHERE EITHER END GOES!

LET'S GET THINGS STRAIGHT!

IF YOU LOOK CLOSELY ON THE PLASTIC NEAR THE LITTLE SOLENOID POSTS YOU SHOULD SEE AN EMBOSSED "S" ON "MY C POST" AND AN "I" ON "MY D POST

"S" IS WHAT SHOULD CONNECT TO "START" ON THE IGNITION SWITCH

"ON" ON THE IGNITION SWITCH SHOULD ENERGIZE THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL WITH VOLTAGE. WHAT DO YOU HAVE ON THE POS SIDE OF THE COIL, KEY ON? SEE MY PIC.

LET'S USE PROPER WORDS! SO I"LL KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU MEAN!

CRANK(S) = TURNS OVER, ROTATES, CRANKSHAFT ROLLS OVER (IT MAY NOT "START" OR IT'S ABOUT TO START, BUT IN THE "CRANK MODE" IT'S AIN'T "BUSTED OFF YET"!)

START(S) = WE HAVE LIFT OFF, IT RUNS, IT HAS "BUSTED OFF", THE ENGINE IS RUNNING

MR. SOLENOID LOOKS A BIT RUSTY HERE AND THERE, IT ALSO MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND TO THE FENDER (REMOVE AND SHINE IT UP)

YOU CAN VERIFY THE FUSIBLE LINKS BEING "GOOD" BY SEEING IF YOU HAVE VOLTAGE AT THE OTHER END OF THE WIRES WITH A VOLTMETER

KEEP ME POSTED

PIC 1) CORRECT COIL

PIC 2) ADVANCE AUTO PARTS IGNITION MODULE TESTER (TEST 5 TIMES IN A ROW, TEST A BRAND NEW ON THE SAME WAY BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE STORE!)

PIC 3) VOLTAGE TEST FOR POS SIDE OF COIL

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 26th, 2016 AT 1:49 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
ANY NEWS?

I GET WORRIED WHEN I HEAR NO NEWS!

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 6:00 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides