Driver door electrical problem

Tiny
FLY4LIV
  • 2004 JEEP CHEROKEE

I have a problem with my vehicle it has a six cylinder, all wheel drive automatic, 52,000 miles. None of the windows function, the drivers door lock, or either mirror. The car is behaving as if the door is open when it is shut. The interior lights remain on, but the computer does not say the door is open. I detailed the interior of the car and the following day this problem began. I thought I got Armorall in the switch, so I bought electrical contact cleaner and tried to clean the switch. I was wondering if anyone can give me some ideas? Also if anyone knows if I must remove the door panel to access the switch or if I can just remove the plastic trim? I plan on checking for loose wires next.

Thanks

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Friday, February 29th, 2008 AT 9:16 AM

26 Replies

Tiny
RTDIXON
  • MEMBER

Just this morning (March 8, 2008) my vehicle developed the exact problem. Could it be break in the wire sending power to the door?

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+2
Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
ISHMARIE33
  • MEMBER

My 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee is doing the same thing. We thought the master door switch went out so we bought a new one;however, that did not solve the problem. Apparently it is not the door switch. So, we bought a door latch kit. That did not work either. We are still trying to figure out what the problem is. If you find anything out, please let me know?

Thanks!

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Tuesday, March 18th, 2008 AT 12:44 PM
Tiny
FLY4LIV
  • MEMBER

I have not had a chance to pull my door panel off yet, hopefully next week. Someone else I spoke with said he had the same problem. After replacing the window switch and latch system all he did was lose his money. He told me he brought it to the dealer to look at it. He said they had to repair the wire harness going into the drivers door. They told him it was a loose wire. No major parts were used, but it still cost him over $400.00. I intend to pull the panel off and use a multi-meter to check the power supply and continuity off the wires. I will let you know what I find when I get a chance to do this.

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Sunday, March 23rd, 2008 AT 5:13 PM
Tiny
REDNECK-DRIVE
  • MEMBER

I have the same problem with my 1994 Grand Cherokee.
I also replaced the switch (did not help) I tested power at door harness. I only have power on tan and yellow wires. I am trying to find out if more wires need power will try door harness.

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-1
Friday, April 11th, 2008 AT 4:20 PM
Tiny
MSBCOMPUTER
  • MEMBER

I just fixed this kind of problem. Check the black wire between the door and the body inside the rubber boot. The boot comes off the door rather easy, but putting it back into place is hard. I soldered the wires and was back in business in under thirty minutes and another thirty minutes to figure out how to get the boot back on. It will go back on using a screw driver (to hold the plastic door piece away from the door)and a tiny pair of needle-nose pliers. Good luck!

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+22
Sunday, April 27th, 2008 AT 4:46 PM
Tiny
FLY4LIV
  • MEMBER

I finally fixed it today. It was the orange and white power feed located in the rubber boot between the door and body. After removing the boot to check the wires I noticed the wire was cut clean through. It was not rubbing on anything or kinking so I am not sure why it broke, but it did. I slid some heat shrink over it soldered it together then covered it with the heat shrink. Problem solved, all is working fine. It took about forty minutes total.

Hope this helps someone else.

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Thursday, May 29th, 2008 AT 11:48 AM
Tiny
THREID
  • MEMBER

My son purchased his 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee from a dealer and immediately the power windows/doors stopped working. The dealer would not help him. I decided to google the problem and found this page. Sure enough the black wire inside the door harness was broken. I simply spliced it back together, soldered the connection, taped over, and reinstalled the boot. It solved the problem along with a few other gremlins. Total cost was $10.00 for a cheap solder iron. I love this website and those who maintain it.

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Saturday, December 20th, 2008 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
ANIMALFARM
  • MEMBER

Love the website, too! Keep passing on those solutions, we need all the help we can get to save our hard-earned cash!

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Saturday, December 20th, 2008 AT 1:40 PM
Tiny
HELLOCHICAGO
  • MEMBER

You guys and this site are amazing. Same problem here. I checked fuses, and was about to order a new switch hen I found this site. I opened the door, pulled back the rubber wiring boot, and there was the problem. Both the black and the orange/white wires were both completely severed half way into the boot. It was a little awkward to work with, but I made due with needle nosed pliers, electrical tape, and a knife to clean the plastic casings off the wires to splice them together. Works like a champ again. Side note: these wires mysteriously broke over the last couple of weeks during some of Chicago's coldest winter days (multiple zero degree days). Being that these were the two thickest wires in the cluster of about 7 or so, sounds to me that they just got a little brittle and broke with the cold winter temperatures. Cheers.

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Sunday, February 8th, 2009 AT 1:22 PM
Tiny
KLLAVAS
  • MEMBER

I had the same problem with the black wire being completely cut. Spliced together and almost everything is fine. My initial problem is that the rear passenger window did not work. I took it to the dealership and they replaced the driver's power switch module and then said oops, it was the front passenger switch module that need to be replaced. Will I have to remove the entire door panel to do this myself?

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Thursday, October 15th, 2009 AT 9:10 AM

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