Windows not working

Electrical problem
2002 Jeep Cherokee Engine Size unknown Four Wheel Drive Automatic 67000 miles

My Power windows will not work and temperature readout only shows dashes. I looked for a fuse for the power windows and none of the descriptions showed the power windows. The power mirrors and the power locks do work. What fuse is the power windows associated with?

We have the same problem with a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

We just tried disconnecting the battery and, after about 5 minutes, reconnecting it. The computer must have re-set itself and now the windows and everything else works again.

About a week ago, I was jump starting my dead car with my Grand Cherokee. I had the cables hooked up improperly and the one I had grounded to the car was smoking. STUPID ME!

Well maybe it's coincidence, but ever since then (i think), the entire drivers side panel is not working (including the power locks, windows, and the mirrors). None of the power windows work in the entire car, however I AM able to lock the car doors through the passenger side door, just not through the drivers side panel. The keyless entry will unlock and lock all the doors but the driverside. Sometime the computer thing that reads the outside temperature reads that the drivers side door is open, when it is not. When I turn the car off and start it back up, that alert goes aways.

The only other thing that is wrong is: (lets see if I can explain this). The lights that light up the speedometer and basically all the dashboard lights, have to be on the lowest power for the interior lights to go off. So it's really hard to see how fast I'm going at night as the lights are barely visible unless I turn the dial up to where my interior lights are "on" and they get brighter as I do so. Sheesh, hope you understand taht one.

The strange thing is, one of the days this past week the windows and locks DID work on the drivers side. This makes me think that something is just loose, but I really have no idea.

Could it be the computer? Fuse? Or do you just think something could be loose? I know it's really expensive to fix if it's the computer, so wanted to see if you had any idea what I might be.

My kid recently bought a 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Yesterday the driver's door electrical suddenly quit working. I suspected loss of either the 12V, or ground connection and when I determined the ground was open-circuited, I searched for most likely locations. It seems the broken ground in the flexible bundle to the door IS now infamous.

From my work in factory automation, I know that copper wires and flexing are a bad match. Robotic cables are made with many very fine copper strands of copper in more flexible insulation - engineered for long life in flexing applications. Even then, there is a strong attempt to prevent any kinking of the wires, because that becomes the point of failure. (Think about how you can bend a loop in your tape measure and roll that loop, to get your measurement - but if you kink the tape, it cracks and soon breaks (or you get tired of cutting your fingers on it).

I found that my kid's Jeep had been repaired once before, when the black wire to the driver's door had failed about 2" from the front entry to the door - the wire broke at one end of the butt-splice. My guess is that that is the same for most of these failures (whether the black (chassis-ground), or the grey/orange (12V) [both are 12AWG wires, while all the other wires are a much finer gauge - maybe 18 or 20 AWG and more flexible.])

After pulling the rubber boot and connector through the opening in the kick-panel, I spliced a new wire to the remaining stub of the broken black wire, using a butt-splice with heat-shrink tubing (meant for outdoor environments) [ACE Hardware carries GB brand waterproof butt-splices (stock number AMT-126), at qty 3, for $7, or Home Depot has the AMT-4126, qty 5, for $4.48]. The shrink tubing provides protection from water (which can also include corrosive road salts) and also provides some strain-relief on either side of the splice.
Then I butt-spliced the new wire inside the passenger compartment, leaving a small loop, which can more freely slide as the door is opened and closed.
Next I wrapped the bundle of wires with electrical tape, from the door-end, to about 3" from the door, to help prevent kinking in that same area of the wires - this may push repeats of the problem to another part of the wires, or may cause the entire bundle to slide into and out of the kick panel; either way, hopefully delaying repair / replacement of the wires.

Failure of wires which repeatedly flex (e.G. Wheel-speed sensors) is not unexpected - hopefully the auto industry learns from these common failures and changes their ways. There is no perfect vehicle and I do not look forward to having to own a "drive by wire" vehicle.

Thank you for the helpful info on your website.

This place is great. 2004 Grand Cherokee, 238,000 miles. Was hauling 1 ton of pellets (which this thing does surprisingly well) and the driver door control panel quit. No windows, no locks. I immediately googled it and was sent here. Opened the door, popped open the boot and there was the black wire, cut in half. Stripped, soldered, and heat shrunk in about 10 minutes. All supplies I already have. Thanks to a tip on here, getting the boot back in place was a snap with a regular screwdriver and a small pair of needle nose pliers. $0 repair.

I think the issue was coming by the looks of things anyway. I'm blaming the rough downshift when climbing hills. With O/D off (a must when hauling) the kick down thumps a bit because I'm nearing the end of life on my U joints. I think this finally shook the wire enough to make it break.

Anyways, great site and thanks!