Ignition problem, no spark to coil?

Tiny
VL GARAGE
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 DODGE CHARGER
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,000 MILES
The car started shifting a little rough and threw some transmission solenoid codes, I decided to replace the transmission because I don't mess with any internals in the transmission. So, one day I drove in my garage and replaced the transmission with a used transmission I bought from a friend. After doing the transmission service I tried to start the engine and it would only crank. So, I checked for codes and nothing, I checked for basic things at first, I made sure I could hear the fuel pump turn on with ignition on and that was good, I checked for spark at the ignition coil #2 with a spark tester and while cranking I did not see any spark. The "new transmission housing" I put came with the Crankshaft position sensor so at first I thought it was that the CKP was bad so I replaced it with the original CKP sensor I previously had on the old transmission housing and made no difference, and just to make sure it was good I ended buying a new CKP sensor from Auto Store and nothing. So, I pulled out a few diagrams I found of it, I did check CKP connector gets 5V, ground and also checked with a multimeter and while cranking that it was sending out.200 signal. I checked for continuity on that signal wire all the way to PCM connector and it was good. I also checked Camshaft Position sensor for the same stuff, 5V, ground and signal out. Good. I was thinking PCM had gotten unprogrammed because we had disconnected the battery for a few hours straight so I ordered an already flashed to your VIN PCM ready to plug and play. While that arrived I was doubting the PCM had an issue because I could hook up my scanner to it and do active test on it, but while I waited on that to arrive I replaced the Short Runner Valve from Junkyard car, replaced a CPS with junkyard donor, I started checking coil connectors, yellow wire does show power when key on, I checked all fuses and relays, I checked for Auto Shut down relay and it seems to work fine, I even though the "New" transmission was the issue so I took it down and put the old one back up just to see if it had anything to do with the transmission but still won't start. Just cranks, doesn't sound like timing chain broke either, sounds like good compression, after replacing the transmission again with the new trans thinking my problem was the PCM it arrived today, we plugged it up, I made sure to check for codes and nothing, cranked it and still doing the same thing, I don't know what else to check hopefully you guys can help me out!
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Saturday, August 26th, 2023 AT 7:17 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,288 POSTS
I would check to make sure the ground wires are connected at the transmission. Also, can we run the codes to see what comes up?

This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Also, when the engine is cranking does the scanner show engine RPM? This guide may help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-not-running-advanced

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem so we can see what's going on.
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Sunday, August 27th, 2023 AT 11:12 AM
Tiny
VL GARAGE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Sorry it took me a few days to get back, but I checked RPM in scanner and also the RPM needle on the cluster moves a little while cranking. No codes as of right now but I do remember that it had stored a P2533 code I believe something with the run start relay but I double checked the relay and it was all good. Since then, I think I cleared the codes and since then It hasn't thrown any codes.
Also, you mentioned grounds for the transmission. The only actual ground I remember removing was one on the transmission housing or transmission bell bolt right by the crankshaft position sensor. What other grounds can I check for?
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Tuesday, August 29th, 2023 AT 7:08 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,288 POSTS
That is the ground I was talking about so if that is connected it shouldn't be a problem.

The P2533 code in a 2010 Dodge Charger indicates a problem with the Ignition Switch Run/Start Position Circuit.

Can I ask if when you are cranking the engine over do you have a security light flashing? If not, you could have a TIPM that has gone out which is common, but to be sure we should run a CAN scan, you can get a CAN scanner (Controller Area Network) which will work on most cars from Amazon here is a video to show you how.

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Here are the wiring diagrams for the starter circuit which you can see the TIPM's involvement. Also, I have included how to change out the TIPM in case a code comes up for it. It could have gone bad from a voltage spike when the battery was connected. The TIPM is easy to replace because it-self learns. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what you find.
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2023 AT 10:31 AM
Tiny
VL GARAGE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I just replaced the TIPM, I also had a doubt thinking that could be the problem causing the PCM not to send any signal out to the Coil. I replaced it with a donor fuse box from Junkyard, it does the exact same thing, Cranks but not spark. I also checked the for codes after replacing the TIPM and this is what I got. I will send them to you in a picture, I also recorded a small video where I show the lights on Dash when I switch the key to on. Check engine light will stay on, and then it would blink a few times and stay on again, I've seen that in a Misfire condition but no idea on this specific case. Hope you can help out.

This is what I've replaced so far and checked.
After replacing the transmission and car not starting.
Check Crankshaft Position sensor, checked 5Vts, ground, and 5 volts when the car is KEY On. Also checked volts change to around.200 and moves up and down when cranking. I had already ordered a new CKP sensor so just to make sure I went ahead and replaced it.
Scanner and dash reads RPMS while cranking.
Checked for the ground on transmission housing right by the CKP sensor and using a power probe shows ground.
I checked continuity from Signal wire at CKP sensor connector to PCM connector and it was good.
I replaced the short Valve runner with used one.
Checked all fuses and relays at both fuse boxes, one in trunk and under hood, checked ASD relay and turned it one and off from Active test on scanner, you can hear it click every time.
I also checked Camshaft position sensor for 5 Volts, ground, and signal coming out while cranking, and also replaced sensor with Junkyard donor.
Checked injectors and they do receive signal ground from PCM and power and work as they should.
Replaced PCM with already flashed to your car one and nothing changed. And replaced TIPM box yesterday as well with junkyard donor and still does the same thing, I don't know if I should try to get the trunk fuse box and replace it or I don't know what else to check now.
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Thursday, August 31st, 2023 AT 9:43 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,288 POSTS
So, to be clear the engine cranks but there is no spark? I shorted ignition coil; fuel injector or oxygen sensor can shut down the PCM and cause no spark. I would remove the electrical connectors and test the coils using a voltmeter set to ohms and compare them all. Also let's check the power and ground to the PCM here is a guide and the PCM wiring diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

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Thursday, August 31st, 2023 AT 11:55 AM

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