Engine Performance problem
2000 Honda CRV 4 cyl All Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles
i have a car that will not start. I tried everything
first checked and replaced spark plug. Then replaced distributor, then still not start. Then I changed starter with no result. Battery tested fine. Then I went on alldata read a tsb which said the exhaust valves recede into the cylinder head. So I replaced the heads, put the timing belt on, and set the timing. Checked firing order it is 1-3-4-2 and base timing set it to 16 degrees TBDC. Also advanced timing as necessary and then recently checked fuel pressure with in specs. Fuel smelled so rich, shooting too much fuel. Was told to check exhaust problem. Disconnected the exhaust and noticed engine backfiring, and fire coming out of the exhaust manifold. Yet I thought it would start the car. No luck, no start. Please explain problem. Can't figure it out
It sounds like you have a shorted fuel injector. Unplug all the fuel injector connectors and replace spark plugs with new and then crank over, pull spark plugs and see if any are wet are wet with fuel. You must use new spark plugs. They should all be dry since the connectors are off. This test checks the mechanical part of the injector. If fuel is present, the injector is bad. If there is no fuel present on any sparks plugs check the resistance of the injector for consistant resistance. If any of the injectors are shorting out it will effect the entire system.
September, 9, 2009 AT 6:48 PM
Do you it can't be a timing issue. I checked the timing like three tiimes, and the firing order is correct for that car 1-3-4-2. One of the fuel injectors could be off, but there is no way telling that, until I open each of them and check the resistance. Would that be right.
Please also elaborate more on timing issue, or exhaust being clogged, etc.
It is backfiring from the exhaust manifold and there is like a fireball coming out
September, 10, 2009 AT 1:38 PM
We have a great page for testing the fuel system. You have to narrow down the possible problems and work thru the steps.
Test fuel injector pulse and supply voltage output (test is used for most cars). This test will tell you if the computer system has operating voltage and injector trigger signal. Remove an electrical connector from a fuel injector (it doesn't matter which injector) probe both sides of the connector with a grounded test light (there are only two terminals). Have a helper turn the key to the "on" position without cranking the engine and observe the test light. The test light should illuminate one side of the connector only. Next, switch the test light lead to the positive side of the battery to test the system ground injector trigger, probe the side of the connector that did not light up, have a helper crank the engine over and observe the test light, it should blink on and off. If this test checks ok continue to next step. (Note: if no injector pulse is present try disconnecting the remainder of injectors and re-test, if a fuel injector is shorted it can shut down the injector driver causing no injector pulse. If injector pulse returns plug injectors electrical connectors in one at a time until the pulse fails and replace that injector)
If this test revealed that there was no pulse but system has power the ECM is not generating a fuel injector trigger. If there is no trigger to the fuel injector it will not allow fuel to enter into the engine. Some of the most popular reasons that can cause this condition include a shorted crankshaft angle sensor, shorted camshaft position sensor or shorted ECM/PCM. (When a system trouble code scan is performed it does not always catch a crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft position sensor failure). Tip: try disconnecting all non-essential sensors, example: oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, throttle position sensor, air intake temperature sensor, mass air flow or map sensor and EGR valve pressure differential sensor. Crank the engine over, if the injector pulse returns, one of the sensors is shorted causing the system to not operate. Plug the sensors in one at a time until the injector pulse fails then replace that sensor and reassemble.