1989 Honda Civic Engine not firering very well

Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 HONDA CIVIC
Engine Performance problem
1989 Honda Civic 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

The car developed this problem about 6weeks ago. The engine could not fire very well, I took it to my local mechanic, he change the injector nozzle and yet the problem is still on. He decided to clean and service the injector which he did but yet the problem is still their. What I observe is that the engine start normally and work well, but when you press the accelerator it will not fire properly and if you do that continuously the engine will stop. I have change the spark plug but no improvement. Kindly help.
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Friday, August 22nd, 2008 AT 5:15 AM

18 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi chrisletua,

Did the Malfunction Indicator Light show?

Did you test the fuel pressure?

Are sparks strong (bluish in color)?
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Saturday, August 23rd, 2008 AT 8:53 AM
Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
About the malfunction indicator light - the light did not show

For the fuel pressure - the pressure is ok

But for the spark plugs - I don't how to check that. But what I notice now is the cold starting. If that is as a result of the plug. What type do I use.

Thanks for your assistance.
From
chrisletua@yahoo. Com
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Saturday, September 6th, 2008 AT 8:57 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi chrisletua,

Pull a plug wire out and attach a spark plug. Crank and watch the color of the spark, should be builsh.
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Sunday, September 7th, 2008 AT 12:54 AM
Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
I have check it and it is ok. Can you please tell me the type of spark plug that my model use. Because, when I look at the plugs their, my local mechanics mix diffrent type.

Thanks
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Monday, September 8th, 2008 AT 2:01 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi chrisletua,

Should be NGK BKR6E-11. I need to know the engine variant to be sure.
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Tuesday, September 9th, 2008 AT 7:23 AM
Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
Hi Mr. KHLow2008, Moderator
Thanks so much, you always stand by me. I have search for the spark plug NGK BKR6E-11, but I cloud not find such, what I find is NKG BKR6E. The only different is the last 11.
I dont know if its the same type.

Now the car is given me a grounding sound like one bearing is bad some where. I suspect the rear Tyre side. But if I checke the ream on the tyre (the 4 tyres)no of them is hot.

Secondly, the gass consumption is too much.
Please what can I do.
Thanks
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Tuesday, October 7th, 2008 AT 7:42 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi chrisletua,

We would always have our arms opened to welcome you anytime.

NGK BKR6E would have a gap of 0.8 mm whereas the 11 = 1.1 mm. You can use the plug but they have to be regapped.

A smaller gap would cause higher fuel consumption.

Where the gas consumption is concerned, it would be hard to advise or suggest anything.

Possible causes.
1. Engine ignition timing.
2. Idle speed adjustment.
3. Driving method.
4. Brakes.
5, Clutches, might be worn and slipping causing power losses too.
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Wednesday, October 8th, 2008 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
Hi KHLow2008, Moderator,
compliment of the season, how are you. I have this question to ask you again.

Just last week, I drove across a distance of about 692km from my working place to my home town. I spent 4day, on my way back, after about 25km, I find out that the car could not move very well again. The first thing I use to do is to check the spark plug.

Now I find out that the first one is dead out of the four. Only number 1. I change it the care come back to normal till I reach my working place after the vacation.

Now I have the same problem 2day late, I have change the plug now for three times. And it is the same BKR6E 11. Please what could be the problem? Help me out.
Christopher
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Sunday, December 21st, 2008 AT 6:36 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi Christopher,

When a plug keeps shorting out, you need to check if the compression is good.

Another problem could be oil leaking into the cylinders causing the plugs to foul up. Might be due to worn valve stem seals, which is quite likely based on the year of your vehicle. Is the engine oil consumption high after the long distance drive?

3rd thing to check would be the spark plug cables which I seem to have missed out the last time. Get an ohmmeter to test the ohms, should have continuity but below 25 k ohms. Do you have hesitation while accelerating?

MERRY CHRISTMAS
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Sunday, December 21st, 2008 AT 7:17 AM
Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
Your reply use to help me a lot, as an electrical technician I still try my best to understand some mechanical terminology.

1, I will see my local mechanics to check the compression for me.

2, there is no oil shortage and the consumption is OK
the plugs did not foul up but it is dried and tick black on it.

For the cables I will give you feedback on that very soon. But I do have hesitation while accelerating, in the morning and occasionally while on speed.

What can you say about the engine, it old? Do you advice me to change it or what?

Thanks see you.
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 AT 9:47 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi Christopher,

If you do not have excessive engine oil consumption or overheating problem the engine is still going strong. Not necessary to replace it.

Unless the compression is low, then you might need to rebuild or replace it.

Btw you should check if the catalytic converter is clogged. It would affect performance and would cause plugs to short, but mostly the plugs would wear of the electrodes.

If you have sooty sparks, either the spark is weak, which can be due to a bad plug wire, or faulty injector, causing flooding, ie excessive fuel getting to the cylinder.
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Friday, January 23rd, 2009 AT 7:34 AM
Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
Hi friend, since the last time you reply my mail, you will not believe that my local mechanic could not solve the problem, then I have decided to take it up myself.

If you remember, it was a spark plug issue we discussed last. Since then I've been changing plugs every month, Later I discover that the air system is dirty (i cant say precisely the type of air system) I clean it up and for the rest of that month it was fantastic. But now the problem come back again. This time around I have to open the ECU and observe the LED.

When I start the engine in the morning, normally the engine will work for about to minute without load i.E no head lamp on or other things, then engine will come down with low noise and less vibration. But now the engine after 15s to 20s it will rise again and you will here the manifold vibrating.

The LED D1, D2, D3 and D4 in the ECU.
As you starting the engine D4 and D2 light up the the engine high up D4 went off and D1 lit up at this time this air system become abnormal, if you press the accelerator the engine will start to make shooting sound and slow down later went off.

On the ECU there are three plug with bunch of cable if I remove the middle plug the and start the engine LED D2, D3 and D4 come on and the engine is normal but the PGM-FI light on the dash board will not work and after 1hour the engine will not start again until I plugged in the cable plug back.

(1) Is my ECU bad (2) is there any relay that is bad (3) is my PGM-FI bad. (4) is there any problem with Idle speed adjustment.

With all this problem the engine did not soak spark plug but there are black deposit on the spark plug.
Please if there is any drowning to assist me kindly forward it to my mail box chrisletua@yahoo. Com
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Friday, March 13th, 2009 AT 12:18 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi Christopher,

Some teting would need to be done to find out what is wrong and I need tounderstand the situation better.

If the ECU is equipped with 4 LED then this should be a 86 model and not 89 as stated.

It uses the binary system for counting the codes, with 8, 4, 2, 1 respectively. I do not understand what you meant by D1 to D4 so hope my explanaion of the LED would enable you to read the codes better. 1 starts from right and is read leftwards.

Maybe you should test the coolant temperature sensor and or it circuit. Your problem seems likely to be caused by it.
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Friday, March 13th, 2009 AT 10:24 AM
Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
It is 1987 model yes it has 4 LED

Yes, it uses the binary system for counting the codes, with 8, 4, 2, 1

1 starting from right and is read leftwards. you are correct

How can i locate the coolant temperature sensor coolant temperature sensor, is there any way to test


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_Is_this_the_coolant_temperature_sensor_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_The_socket_veiw_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_is_this_the_right_coolant_temperaturesensor_with_plug_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_Is_this_the_plug_to_the_coolant_temperature_sensor_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_OR_is_this_the_right_sensor_1.jpg

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Friday, March 13th, 2009 AT 4:57 PM
Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
I am sending you the picture of the ECU. that is the tow LED that come on when the engine is runing


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_ECU_1.jpg



Here is the one with the three plug on the side


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_IMG0033A_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_IMG0047A_1.jpg



now you can see the D1,D2 that I was telling you earlier.

more pix


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_IMG0049A_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_IMG0034A_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/231560_ECU_2.jpg



Awaiting your reply thanks.
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Saturday, March 14th, 2009 AT 4:28 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The D1 to D4 are the circuit board schematic diodes.

I have the testing diagnostic for the various circuits but it is not the correct position as the ECU connectors unless you have the Diagnostic Harness Checker. Refer to lower diagram for wire colors. You can back probe the connectors by removing the ECU from its mounting points.
A = biggest connector ( white) you need to backprobe the C connector.

Note the wire colors at ECT, you have the correct pix of it.

SELF-DIAGNOSTIC LIGHTS NO. 1 & 4 ON OR LIGHT BLINKS 5 TIMES
NOTE: Check control box vacuum hose routing before proceeding with trouble shooting.

1. Ensure MAP sensor vacuum hoses are properly connected. Disconnect vacuum hose from MAP sensor and plug open end of hose. Disconnect vacuum hose No. 21 from throttle body (vacuum hose between MAP sensor and throttle body on CRX Si). Connect vacuum pump to hose and apply vacuum.

2. If vacuum does not hold, replace hose. If vacuum remains constant, plug system checker harness between control unit and connector. Connect positive voltmeter probe to terminal C15 (Red/White wire) and negative probe to terminal C14 (Blue/White wire). Turn ignition on and check voltage.
3. Voltage should be 4.75-5.25 volts. If voltage is not within specification, replace ECU and retest. If voltage is within specification, connect voltmeter positive probe to terminal C11 (White/Blue wire) and negative probe to terminal C14 (Blue/White wire).
4. Voltage should be 2.76-2.96 volts. If voltage is not within specification, check and repair open/short circuit in Blue/White or White/Blue wires (White/Red or Brown/White wires on CRX Si) between MAP sensor and ECU. Check for faulty MAP sensor.
5. If voltage is within specification, connect vacuum pump to MAP sensor. Ensure voltage varies as vacuum is applied. If voltage does not vary, replace MAP sensor. If voltage varies, replace ECU and retest.

SELF-DIAGNOSTIC LIGHTS NO. 2 & 8 ON OR LIGHT BLINKS 10 TIMES
1. Plug system checker harness between ECU and connector. Connect voltmeter positive probe to terminal C5 (White/Red wire) and negative probe to terminal C12 (Green/White wire). Turn ignition on. Ensure voltage reading is correct for intake air temperature.
2. If voltage is correct, replace ECU and retest. If voltage is not correct, turn ignition off. Check for open/short circuit in White/Red and Green/White wires (Red/Yellow and Brown/Black wires on CRX Si) between intake air temperature sensor and ECU. Repair wiring if necessary. If wiring checks okay, check intake air temperature sensor. Replace sensor if defective. If sensor tests okay, replace ECU and retest.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_IATChart87Civic_1.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_ECUC387Civic01_1.jpg



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Sunday, March 15th, 2009 AT 12:41 AM
Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
I need more pix to guide me on the trouble shooting.
Thanks
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Monday, March 16th, 2009 AT 7:28 AM
Tiny
CHRISLETUA
  • MEMBER
Volkswagen Vento 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

Hi, I am Christopher. I have change my car now to Volkswagen Vento 1997 model with V6 engine.

I drove to school to pick my kid in the afternoon and later in the evening. I get the car tape fixed and after, I start the engine to check with the tape output, and its ok. Later the engine went off. Then I notice the engine oil level signal light flashing and the car did not start. The engine oil level is OK.

The return hose for the fuel is not returning to the tank. But that problem of the fuel not returning had been long waiting problem.
Please help.
Thanks
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Thursday, February 18th, 2010 AT 4:06 PM

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