1998 Honda Accord Car will not stay running after timing be

Tiny
DIYGUY71
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 251,000 MILES
It's a long story but here we go.
Car was getting poor gas milage (21 vice 26 mpg city) and idling rough. I changed the timing belt/balancer belt and WP(last change was 100Kmiles ago). Car ran great the first day. Second day car ran rough and then just quit. I rechecked the timing and noticed I had not tightened the camshaft sproket all the way. I feared it slipped and damaged the valves. With all the belts still on, I tightened it, spun the engine by hand several times and all the timing and balance marks were still correct. I also spun the engine with the starter, all marks still correct. If left to sit, the car will start with some effort and run rough at low RPM. When engine is cold, I must keep 2500RMP. At 2500 rpm it runs pretty smooth all things considered. After running for a few moments, the car will "drop dead" (no sputtering, surging, etc) when you take your foot off the gas. After which the car not start unless you jump it. After running for a minute or two, OBD codes P0300, P0301 and P0302 register. I have done a rudamentary compression check (pull all plug wires, three plugs in and tester hose) and #1, 2, and 3 cylinder show ZERO compression. #4 shows 175-180. I've done this several times with the same result. I hope I'm doing the check wrong.
EGR valve, both O2 sensors replaced within 5000 miles ago.
Any ideas?
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Tuesday, April 27th, 2010 AT 7:58 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
So you have 3 cylinders with 0 compression, but one with a little too much. Sounds like the valves hit in those 3. Hondas are supposed to be non-interference engines, but I suppose anything could happen. Try pulling the valve cover and checking the valve lash. If the valves are bent enough to have 0 comp, there should be some excessive valve lash due to them being stuck down a little. Even if you had the cam/crank timing off, there would still be some compression all the way across the board. All 3 codes are for cylinder misfires, P0300 is random, P0301 and P0302 are cylinder 2 and 3 misfires.
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Tuesday, April 27th, 2010 AT 10:01 PM
Tiny
DIYGUY71
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So how does a 4-cylinder run smoothly at 2500rpm on only one cylinder? Or is there more to it.
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Tuesday, April 27th, 2010 AT 10:34 PM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Even if the valves are slightly bent, when engine rpm increases, the seal of the valve becomes less noticeable.
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Tuesday, April 27th, 2010 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
DIYGUY71
  • MEMBER
Thanks. I'll check it out.
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Wednesday, April 28th, 2010 AT 7:18 AM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Let me know how it goes
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Wednesday, April 28th, 2010 AT 10:23 AM
Tiny
DIYGUY71
  • MEMBER
#2 exhaust had lots of slack, #1 exhaust had just a little less, Intake had some slack too. #3, one of the exhaust had a little slack. I double checked the timing, it is still dead on! Any ideas how three of four cylinders could lose compression like that? Also, what size socket are the head bolts? Thanks.
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Thursday, April 29th, 2010 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Could just be that the belt jumped time and grabbed in a bad place, causing 3 to get hit. The head bolts are either 12mm or 14mm usually 12 point heads
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Friday, April 30th, 2010 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
DIYGUY71
  • MEMBER
I double and triple checked timing. It was spot on. If it jumped, it then jumped back. The head is off now. I don't see any physical damage to either the valves or cylinders. I'll take it to a shop on Monday and have it pressure tested first. If the head doesn't leak, I'll probably replace the entire motor.
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Saturday, May 1st, 2010 AT 12:48 AM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
If you have 0 comp on 3 cylinders, then something has gone terribly wrong. Possibly a broken crank? I misunderstood, thought it jumpoed time and died, then you retimed it and tried to start it
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Saturday, May 1st, 2010 AT 9:28 AM
Tiny
DIYGUY71
  • MEMBER
Here's an update. What I forgot to mention in my original post was when I did the timing belt I removed the cam sproket. Unfortunately, I forgot to torque it down to specs. The next day when I double checked the timing I noticed it was lose on the cam so I tightened it to specs. Apparently the damage was already done. I dont know how, but this caused the timing to be off even though the marks were on (can you twist the end of the cam?). The guy at the machine shop said six exhaust valves were bent (hence no compression in #s1, 2, 3 cylinders). When the guy went to remove the sproket from the cam, the end of the cam busted off! So now I need to by a new cam and 6 new valves. Look at it this way, I knew I got the "timing" right!
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Monday, May 3rd, 2010 AT 8:16 PM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Probably ruined the key way in the cam. Thats a tough lesson learned. Glad to hear you found the problem though
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2010 AT 7:52 AM

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