Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 167668 miles
Ok so I have 94' Honda accord DX 2.2L vtec w/ an f22b automatic, I got it from a good friend who got it with a fresh head gasket. It's leaking about a 1/2 to 1 qt every other day appx. I knows its not the oil pressure switch, just got that done, just got the oil pan gasket done, not the valve cover.
It's leaking from the passenger side rear corner of the engine, the first mechanic did all the other work on it (except the hg) and sprayed it all down cause the entire engine was covered in oil and said it had to be the head gasket. He thinks the mechanic who did the HG before didn't do a good job because he didn't change out the water pump or timing belt, which got done after. The upper end looks new because its all shiny but IDK (maybe new head?).
The car doesn't leak any anti-freeze and doesn't overheat or smoke. It just started smoking out of the exhaust but that was just cause it was cold thismorning?
Anyways the second mechanic was a little better and had a camera to look around and said it might be the HG but wasn't sure because it was covered by the transfer case but it was for sure the rear passenger side of the engine and was leaking down some tube. It leaks the majority when its running so I can only think it could be a cracked block or the HG, but that was just done. What else is in that area that it could be please help! Thanks in advanced.
Following parts were just done:
-oil filter (yes it is tight)
- brakes and tires
-oil pan gasket (which is missing a bolt but isnt leaking)
-water pump timing belt and radiator
-distributor wires and plugs
The whole bottom half of the engine is covered front to back and pretty much the whole front half bottom of the car
I would suggest washing the engine, then adding a small bottle of dye. Drive a few miles, then shine a black light around the area. The dye will show up bright yellow. Don't drive too far with a leak this bad because the dye will end up everywhere and you won't be able to trace it back to the source.
Another thing that might work is to inject smoke from a smoke machine. They put out white non-toxic smoke at 2 psi. It would typically be injected into the dipstick tube. You will see the smoke coming out if the leak is in an oil return passage or some other part where the oil isn't under pressure. If the oil must be under more than 2 psi to be forced out of the leak, this won't work.
It did work for me on my old rusty trusty '88 Grand Caravan. It appeared to have a leaking rear main seal. Turned out to be a pinhole rusted through the high point in the bottom of the oil pan. Simple leak; simple fix. Would have been overlooked in favor of a very time-consuming incorrect fix.
March, 18, 2010 AT 11:39 PM
Im gonna add to this ignore the previous post: Well That still won't help I know where its coming from but its covered by the transfer case, What is in that area that can leak. Im trying to diagnose possible problems before I take it apart.
Also Is there any way to rule out a head gasket or cracked block due to no oil in the anti-freeze, not over-heating, not running rough at all? Or are all these still possible with these problems?
March, 19, 2010 AT 12:57 AM
I don't think I'd be worried about something cracked. A crack in the head could leak pressurized coolant, but there are no pressurized oil passages that I'm aware of that far out. Most cracks on a four cylinder head will leak the good stuff into the cylinder where it will be burned.
Do you mean the leak is hidden by the transmission? The head gasket is up higher than that. If I'm understanding your description properly, the leak is down lower under the bell housing of the transmission. There will be some oil galley plugs there that could leak. It's not common for them to develop a leak unless they were recently installed. It's more common for a camshaft seal to leak, but you should see that easily since it's above the head gasket.
The only way to machine some passages is to go through the block from the outside, drill intersecting passages, then put a plug in after cleaning out any debris. Typically those plugs are never removed except when rebuilding the engine. The passages must be cleaned of any metal chips and solvents. If soft metal pressed-in plugs are used, new ones are installed. If they are screwed-in, they are a pipe thread. The old ones can be reused, often with a sealant or teflon tape. A lot of rebuilders don't like teflon tape because a loose piece could break off and clog a small port.
In some applications, racing engines for example, guys will tap the holes and install threaded plugs in place of the pressed-in ones. A cheaper trick is to punch some dents around the plugs so they can't come out. I'm interested in hearing what you find. I would think a leaking pressed-in plug would fall out and leak worse, unless it's bumping into the transmission, and it doesn't seem likely a threaded plug would leak that fast.
I have a '97 head that I'll be taking to a swap meet this summer, but it's so packed away, I can't get it out to look at it.
March, 19, 2010 AT 10:32 AM
Thanks that's the response I was looking for, I will let you know for sure when I get it fixed, but If its dumping 1/2 to 1 qt every other day wouldn't there be more symptoms if its the head gasket or not necessarily? I will let you guys know within a week!
March, 22, 2010 AT 11:03 AM
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March, 23, 2010 AT 3:05 PM
None of these is more expensive than a head gasket right? Quick estimates would help so I dont get ripped off. If its not the head gasket im goin in in a few days: -Where Gear Case meets Bell Housing
-vtec solenoid valve
-gasket for cam sensor
-rear cam seal
-cam sensor o-ring
-oil galley plugs
March, 23, 2010 AT 6:29 PM
Ok today i went under the car and it was dripping in between the tranny and engine... rear main seal??? I took a pic
March, 23, 2010 AT 6:52 PM
What you have to look for is the highest point you find oil. The rear main seal and some oil galley plugs require removal of the transmission to get to them. A few engines, most Chryslers for example, have a two-piece rear seal that only requires removal of the oil pan to replace it. That takes about two hours. Removing and reinstalling the transmission is usually at least a six hour job.
The other four things you mentioned are in the open where leaking oil would be easy to see.
March, 30, 2010 AT 7:58 PM
Ok so this mechanic I found on craigslist says he can find out whats going on and give me an estimate before he does any work. $100 to remove the intake manifold and find the leak. So He calls me and says its $400 and I can come look at it and he'll show me what he did, Im like wtf I thought you were gonna call me first and tell me what needed to be replaced. But anyways I get there hepoints to the vtec solenoid and says he had to take off the intake to get to it.
I'm like you dont have to take the intake off to that im not paying $400, you didnt even ask my permission to do the work (im guessing since it was such an easy fix and he already put that much work into it he just finished it up) But then he's like well your not getting your car back until you pay me the $400, so im like yea ok and call the police, they get there make me pay the $100 which I agreed I owed and took the car, he tried to get me to sign something ad im like no way, and he just put paid in full for $100 so I signed it so he couldnt take me to court which was his only option of gettting paid!
So long story short I got it fixed for $100 and a bunch of BS but how much would a honda dealer charge me for this, he just replaced the gasket seal that has 3 circles with the strainer looking part on one part that attaches the solenoid to the engine.
March, 30, 2010 AT 9:48 PM
Hope this takes care of it. Sorry for all the grief. Up here in Wisconsin, we sign a repair order with the maximum amount listed. You can't be charged more than that amount without your permission.