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1992 Honda Accord Car running rough

Tiny
OLVARON
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
Engine Performance problem
1992 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Grettings, I just bought a 92 Honda Accord A/T (161K) for my daughter. It was running fine when drove it home about 75 miles. I now have 2 questions that I need help with:

1. When I stopped in my driveway I forgot I was in an automatic car and while still in D4 and tried to turn off the car. It shut partway but not enough to take the key out. I fiddled with it a while then decided the key was stuck. After 10 minutes I was about to start it back up with the intent to take it to a locksmith, when I realized what I did. I put it in park and it turned off just fine. The next day it started running really rough, kind of chugging along, as if it is choking or had bad gas. I put dry gas in and it didn't get better, so I'm thinking alright it did sit all winter, it probably needs a tune up.

Then I remembered my blunder from the night before. (Sorry but I've always driven a standard and forgot about 'Park'.) I'm wondering if my actions may have caused this problem and if there is something I should check in this regard.

I do intend to do a tune up anyway, but if I caused this by what I did, I would want to take care of it first.

2. It has a rough idle that causes the whole car to shake when in reverse and for a short period when in D4 going between 50 & 55 mph, i.E. Right before it shifts into overdrive. Otherwise it idles fine.
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Sunday, June 1st, 2008 AT 2:02 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Do you have a check engine light? Also do the tune-up.

Check the fuel pressure this will give you an idea what's with the fuel filter/pressure regulator/fuel pump. If it checks out-Inspect and Test the electronic air control valve, throttle position and manifold absolute pressure sensors.
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Sunday, June 1st, 2008 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
OLVARON
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I drove it for about 50 miles after adding the dry gas and no warning lights or anything have shown up.

Am I to assume from your response that you don't think my turning it off while in park has anything to do with it's running rough? Or are these problems you say to check for related to that?

If you don't think my key/park move would cause any of what I am describing, I will get the tune up done right off.

Would I have to ask a mechanic to check the fuel pressure, etc in addition to the tuneup or is this a part of the process?

Last, but not least, before this rough riding issue appeared, the car ran smoothly with no warning lights, no weird noises or anything, but reverse did cause the car to shake and again a shaking occurs when shifting into overdrive. At idle and at other speeds it ran smooth and quiet.

Again I'm wondering if your response is in regards to this issue or to the previous, newer rough riding issue.
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Sunday, June 1st, 2008 AT 4:01 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
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Am I to assume from your response that you don't think my turning it off while in park has anything to do with it's running rough? Its got nothing to do with it. Everything I've mentioned above is related to the rough idle and shaking get these components checked out and the fuel pressure and comeback with the fuel pressure readings so that I can further evaluate what direction to take-

When was the last tune-up?
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Monday, June 2nd, 2008 AT 9:15 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Hi Olvaron,

What rasmataz suggest should be done if the ildling is not stable.

The vibration during reversing could be caused by worn engine mounts if the idling RPM is not less than 700.

Vibration just before OD is engaged points to a probable fault in the 3rd clutch or a improperly adjusted trans throttle cable.

Since you just bought the car, you do not know its history, I have this to suggest.

If the engine seems like chugging after starting from cold, you should check the coolant level in the radiator.

You might have bought a car with a blown head gasket. Duriing cold start there is some compression leakage in one or 2 cylinders.

If so, does the dealer whom sold this vehicle to you provide any sort of warranty?

Anyway hope I am not jumping the gun by giving you too much to worry about.
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Monday, June 2nd, 2008 AT 10:09 AM
Tiny
OLVARON
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Didn't mean to be thick, but was worried that the park/key issue may have burned something out that wouldn't be looked for in routine maintenance. Don't want my actions to be the cause of my new teenage driving daughter getting stuck on the side of the road.

Unfortunately it was a private sale from a woman selling it for her mom. Not much info there as far as history, except that she took it to the garage for regularly scheduled maintenance. I plan on contacting them to see what light they may be able to shed.

The car had sat in her driveway since Oct./Nov. 2007. We put a can of dry gas in and it started right up and purred. Big selling point for me.

As for the vibrations:

When idling all is well. Shifting is smooth and without difficulty. When I took it for a test drive the only problem I noticed was the reverse, which it shifts into smoothly but causes the car to shake when engaged. But it engages and backs with no grinding and with no further problems.

When shifting into OD (in D4) it also shakes, (tho much less obvious than when in reverse), it seems to lag a second or two, then surges forward. This occurs around 50 to 55 mph. Feels more as if it's not getting gas, than as if it's having trouble shifting. (But what do I know, just trying to explain how it feels/goes.)

At no time do panel lights come on. I am taking it into my mechanic to do a tune up and check the fuel pressure as suggested. I think these should take care of the rough riding.

Should I also ask him to check the engine mounts, 3rd clutch and trans throttle cable as a possible cause of the shaking?

I do appreciate both your input. Sorry for the long delay in responding. Was working all day.

Thanks again
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Monday, June 2nd, 2008 AT 5:27 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi Olvaron,

After reading your question again I realised I made a mistake about the 3rd clutch.

It should be the 4th clutch which is slipping and vibrating when engaging. The reverse and 4th gear are using a common clutch so most probably the clutch 'O' ring is worn and there is pressure leakage.

Since the car had been parked for a long time some parts might be stiff or stuck, get the ATF replaced and run the car, it might solve the problem. If not, then sooner or later the reverse and 4th gear will give way.

If both fails, the car can still be driven in forward mode in D3.
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Tuesday, June 3rd, 2008 AT 8:11 AM

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