Codes P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402 and P2419

When did the vehicle stall out on you? The P1603 is a new code and is a result of the Evap system issues. This code is the Engine stalling out (below 200RPMs) without the Ignition Switch being turned off. You need to take care of the Evap system.

Yes, that's exactly what I was meaning. Don't worry about doing the Graphing thing right now.
Are these readings from the vehicle just sitting and idling in your driveway or something?

Okay, a few things stand out right away, give me a minute to look up a few things. I'll respond back shortly.

Can you give me another run through that Data when the car is fully warmed and has been running for about 15-20 minutes? I just want to see if any of these numbers change much. And how is it running right now, what's the outside air temperature where you live right now?

Okay, send data for the highway drive and then when you get home after that drive send the data of it idling in the driveway. That way it will be nice and hot from the drive. But it looks like your Mass Air Flow sensor has some carbon build up on it or there is a lack of air flow through the engine. The reading was too low. It also looks like the Catalytic Converter Temperatures were indicating a possibly failed Converter. That can happen if there is an overly rich running condition. The Temperature sensors 1 and 2 had a huge variance in Temperature. Also, the engine was reading almost a 50% calculated Load and the car wasn't even moving. I think there's quite a few issues here. Does this car have any power at all?

No calculated engine load is a calculation done by the engine computer from sensor data. The 1.8g/s on the Mass Air Flow sensor is too low.

I ran a Volumetric Efficiency (VE) test according to the numbers from your data as you drove. A volumetric efficiency test reveals the ability of the engine to breathe or the volume of air it able to take in, in full measure. The highest it hit was barely 70% and that was at 3500rpm. Most of the time it was very low. The Long-Term Fuel trim was over 10% at some points (10% is the absolute max I like to see). It also looked like the Mass Air Flow sensor is reading low. I think you're going to have to get some Mass Air Flow cleaner spray and clean to small resistors inside the air intake boot. It's the main sensor for determining the amount of fuel injected into the engine. It could increase your power output, I can tell its not running at full power. And if the codes keep returning for the Evap assembly, you're going to have to replace it, I can tell you don't want to, but according to Toyota with those 4 codes coming up together and there's no electrical connection issues, you can only replace the canister as a unit. The VE test shows that the Catalytic Converter may have started to not be able to store enough oxygen and is starting to melt down. But I would worry about getting the codes taken care of first. The front Air/Fuel ratio sensor looks like it's working good. so does the rear Oxygen sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-emission-control-systems-work

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mass-air-flow-service

One last thing, if the Parking brake is still stuck on, or even partially on, it will drastically reduce your gas mileage. If youre not sure about it, jack up the rear end and try to spin a tire.