No start condition, has spark

Sequence of problem. Began misfire fifty miles from home. Check engine light been on for a week. Visual inspection. Open radiator. Fluid low, small bubbles. Fill directly into radiator before driving home. Temperature is higher than normal drove home, five miles out misfire stops. Next morning, starts normally. Starts misfire after warming up. Check radiator. I realize bubbles may be from system sucking air from empty reservoir. Fill reservoir. After engine cools, start engine. No bubbles now. Fluid running full. Next day, same start normal, misfire after warm up. Decide to change plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Discover fans are not working. Research and decide to fix after plug change. Change out front bank plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Rotor in wrong position to access screw. Crank engine slightly. Change rotor and replace cap. Decide to start and test drive. Engine runs smooth, but retarded, lack of power during test drive. Similar to old school leaking vacuum advance hose. Decide problem is in rear bank plugs or wires. Disconnect battery for alternator removal. For easy access to rear bank plugs and alternator bracket, removed windshield wiper linkage pan, serpentine belt and then alternator. Change out rear bank plugs and wires. Reinstall alternator, install new serpentine belt. Decide to test start before reinstalling wiper linkage pan. Connect battery and crank engine. Get no start. Test for spark with special spark tester All plugs and coil wires have 1/2" spark at test plug at end of wires. Decide no fuel to engine is problem. Remove rubber duct from throttle body, open throttle, inject starter fluid. Crank engine. Still no start. Reinspect all vacuum hose and wire harness'. Find wires to Throttle Position Sensor covered with elect tape. Remove tape, discover all three wires with open insulation. Cut out open sections, solder new sections and cover joints with shrink tubing and re-tape. Test TPS with multi-meter with harness connected to sensor, and manual throttle open/close proves sensor is okay. Decide to test Camshaft and Crankshaft Position Sensors. Both test voltage okay within spec. Since engine no start regardless of have spark and direct injection of fuel, inspection of fuel pump/filter seems moot. This has me baffled. So, any ideas? Have digital multi-meter/tools and years working with mechanic dad. Still baffled. By the way, I live in small Michigan town, no repair shop. Closest auto store to read codes is thirty five miles. No start makes it moot anyway. However, just ordered cheap scanner to read codes. Meanwhile, I am still baffled. I am all ears. Thanks in advance.