2000 Dodge Caravan Won't Start, relays click. HELP

Tiny
COFFEEWEASEL
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
This is a strange one. Battery tests at full 12.5 volts, terminals & cables look good.

Symptoms:
-Car won't start (even with jump.)

-Dash lights are off

-No loud clicking like you would normally get with a dead battery

-Relay 13 (or "M") (courtesy light relay) clicks. When I press the break it stops clicking, and starts when I let off. When I turn the ignition on the clicking stops, then starts when turned off. If I turn on the dome lights, they glow dim and the clicking stops, starts again when turned off.

-The low beam relay under the hood also clicks (sometimes does, sometimes doesn't)

HELP!
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Thursday, February 27th, 2014 AT 3:46 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
COFFEEWEASEL
  • MEMBER
Also, my problem sounds kinda exactly like the problem this guy was having...

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2000-dodge-caravan-2000-dodge-caravan-clicking-relays-and-no-start
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Thursday, February 27th, 2014 AT 3:56 PM
Tiny
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Also, just like the other guy, the clicking continues even when the key is NOT in the ignition and the door is closed.
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+1
Thursday, February 27th, 2014 AT 4:03 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
First thing is to remove the courtesy light relay. Check the things I've pointed out in both pics i'm attaching then check to make sure your battery cables are good you should have a nice bright light same as battery as that can be problem. And check your auto shutdown relay with a like relay it may bebad.
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Thursday, February 27th, 2014 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
COFFEEWEASEL
  • MEMBER
Sorry for the late response. I thought the sight was going to email me when I got a response. Never got an email, so I just checked back in and found your post.

I might take me a while to decipher the schematic drawings (I'm not much of a mechanic). Looks like you are requesting that I check several relays, and the ground connection on the van's frame rail.

When you point to a relay, are you suggesting that I replace it? I would have no clue how to just test it, so I'm assuming I would replace it? Maybe the car parts place will know how to test them?

I'll get back to you shortly.

Caby
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Wednesday, March 5th, 2014 AT 5:34 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Just replace it with a like relay tha tis in the vehicle if you can
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Thursday, March 6th, 2014 AT 5:38 AM
Tiny
COFFEEWEASEL
  • MEMBER
Replaced the relay, nothing, tested for voltage drop to see if there was a corroded cable connection. No voltage drop. Another funny thing, I was wiggling fuses and relays under the hood, and suddenly the car perked up and the dash lights came one, the fans started blowing, etc, but it wouldn't start. Now I get the usual loud clicking noise you get when the battery is dead, except I've tested the battery again and it still has 12.5 volts. Very weird. I think I'll have to give up and have it towed to a repair shop. I hate to do it, I don't have the money :o)
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Thursday, March 6th, 2014 AT 10:43 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Sometimes that is a better thing to get your car back and it may not be as much as you think it is.
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Thursday, March 6th, 2014 AT 12:02 PM
Tiny
COFFEEWEASEL
  • MEMBER
I was just given an estimate of $900 to trace the problem, and an extra $1,500 if the control module needs to be replaced. It's a $2,000 van, so it seems to make more sense to scrap the van than to pay for the repair. Really unfortunate.
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Thursday, March 6th, 2014 AT 2:05 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
I think you should check the schematic that I gave you to see where the problem lies then. You only would need either a test light or volt meter for this and yo havelthe schematic so you can print it out. It may be a loose connection someplace.
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Thursday, March 6th, 2014 AT 4:16 PM

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