Hello. So I have a real head scratcher. I have the vehicle listed above it is a V6 engine with a VIN code R. The engine has been beautifully maintained with Castrol GTX oil every 3,000 miles and Lucas oil stabilizer every, 6000. Tuneups and so on. I take pride in my work. However, I noticed a slight noise in the engine that resembled a possible bent valve. Without running the car too long as to cause additional damage and with the miles to go, I decided to rebuild the heads with new guides, seats, seals, valves, springs, gaskets, etc. Keeping in mind that the engine was running fine prior to working on it. I spend a long time maliciously cleaning and prepping each part for re-assembly. Figuring that the depth of exposed parts, I decided to replace other components as well while I was that far into it. Therefore, I also replaced the water pump, oil pump, timing system (complete) and valve train components. Looking at the pistons, I did not work any on the lower end as I had no blow-by or cylinder wall groves. Cross pattern on the walls were still present. I did however change the oil pan gasket and inspected the rod arm bearings which appeared to be in good order. Everything was top notch for the miles it had. Even the cam lobes showed no signs of wear. So I began the reassembly process. Torqued each bolt to Chrysler spec and reconnected every wire that was disconnected. I also pre-lubed all moving parts with a touch of oil to prevent dry-start. So here is where it gets weird: when I started the car for initial run, it cranked over just fine with a full battery charge but would not start. I still heard chatter as one would with new parts but being pre-oiled, I immediately thought the worst and thought the timing might have "jumped" somehow. Without over exerting the engine, I rechecked the timing system and even reset it once again just to make sure everything was as it should. Every mark dead on tooth for tooth. Put it all back together and still the same. No start. Checked the plugs with a proper testing tool and I confirmed that the plugs we in fact firing correctly. Rechecked all connections and all is tight and secure. Checked oil for milk and none was present indicating proper head gasket seating. No codes were present from a ODBII meter. So, I thought because the fuel rail/injector system was drained during the rebuild process that the system may need primed. I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and the car did start and run as long as I kept spraying fluid in the intake. However, once the fluid burned off, the car would stall and die. Taking the intake off to inspect the injectors, I noticed that they were not spraying any fuel. I double checked the connections and traced all wires for brakes or damage. None was noticeable. I checked all the ground straps and used my multi-meter to check for voltage, continuity, etc. All appeared to be within spec. But still no gas. The pumps engages each time the key is turned to the "on" position so I'm sure it is not the pump or line obstruction. I also checked to make sure the pressure valve-to-fuel rail was depressed allowing fuel into the rail itself. Again, the car was running fine before working on it. So, the question is: With proper firing, compression, voltage, and every test imaginable, (Including fuses and relays)would anyone have thoughts as to why the injectors would all of a sudden stop firing? The only thing I have not checked was the fusible link. But I figured that would deal more with ignition coils which run fine. Thank you in advance for your thoughts and time in this quandary. Oh, and one more thing. Yes there is gas in the tank. Lol
have the same problem?
Monday, March 13th, 2017 AT 10:52 AM