1996 Ford Taurus Guage says warm, but not really

COLLINFIX

MEMBER
1996 FORD TAURUS
6 CYL
FWD
AUTOMATIC
114,000 MILES

My daughters 96 LX 3.0 DOHC says it's warmer than it should be. The guage like to hang around 3/4 hot. I did have to replace the water pump. Also gave it a thermostat and cap. The scanner said the CTS was out of range so I replaced it and also the sender for the gauge. The hoses seem good and the fans work as they are suppose to. I am tempted to pull the radiator and have it flushed but thought to ask here if this sort of thing has shown in these cars past.

Sunday, February 21st, 2010 AT 1:18 PM

7 Replies

BMRFIXIT

MECHANIC
19,053 POSTS

Flushing the system should help for sure and a very good idea

Check for codes
If have any should troubleshoot them 1st

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Sunday, February 21st, 2010 AT 5:08 PM

COLLINFIX

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3 POSTS

The only code was the Coolant Temp Sensor out of range so, as I said, I replaced it and the gauge sender too. No help. It's not loosing any coolant and I can put my hand on the hoses when it s saying warm so.

I will try a flush before I pull the Radiator. The myriad of hoses is a little intimidating and I haven't really learned how the coolant flows or air bleeds though all of them yet.

Just thought someone else may have experienced this with their Taurus.

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Monday, February 22nd, 2010 AT 10:26 AM

BMRFIXIT

MECHANIC
19,053 POSTS

If have a code for coolant sensor that does not mean that the sensor is bad and problem will be fixed by replacing the sensor
Does the code return after the sensor replacement and if so what is the code #
No special bleeding or coolant fills procedures for it

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Monday, February 22nd, 2010 AT 8:12 PM

COLLINFIX

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Thanks Jack,
I agree. I, ll get out the "Red Brick" an check that code this next weekend when I see my Daughters car again. Let you know what it is.

My brother had said something about a possible air bubble so, the fill procedure, that is good info too.

What do you think about the coolant spewing out of the res when I remove the cap after the car has been running? When I did a block check for possible combustion gases I couldn't keep the level down, kept raising in the tank. I did replace the thermostat.

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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 8:03 AM

BMRFIXIT

MECHANIC
19,053 POSTS

If block test showed all good and have no leak
Coolants circulating through the system water pump well
This what I would do at this point
Drain system
Remove thermostat and set aside, place back thermostat housing
Fill system with water and radiator flush (heavy duty if possible)
Place cap on
Run engine with heat on for 20 to 40 minutes
Drain system if all rusty fill again with water and repeat

Drain system remove thermostat housing and have the thermostat ready to be installed

Start to fill the system with coolant until it reaches thermostat area
Install thermostat
Jack up the front end and continue filling the system
Good luck

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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 7:23 PM

COLLINFIX

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3 POSTS

Thanks Again Jack,

Yes, I plan on a good flush. And that code is forthcoming. This is my teenage Daughters car who lives in another city, enough said.

Earlier you had said that there is no special fill procedure but I know removing the thermostat is the way to get maximum flow in the system. Good point. What am I doing by filling until coolant arrives at the thermostat?

I am curious of the 'expansion tanks' for lack of better term at the bottom corners of the radiator. Can you point me to something that shows this cooling system in schematic? So many hoses!

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Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 AT 11:43 AM

BMRFIXIT