How do I bleed the Clutch?

Tiny
11287
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD RANGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 81,000 MILES
How do I bleed the Clutch system and what size clear hose do I use on the bleeder valve?
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Thursday, June 12th, 2008 AT 6:43 PM

40 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
It should be a 1/4 inch line for this and you bleed it just like a brake system. You will need to depress the clutch a number of times after any replacement just to work the air out but then you will need to hold the pedal, open the bleeder and then close it and release the pedal until the pedal feels correct.

Here is a guide on replacing the clutch that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-clutch

Below is the process on replacing the slave cylinder that talks about this as well.

Please let us know if you have other questions. Thanks
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Monday, May 3rd, 2021 AT 5:52 PM
Tiny
HYPNOTIX_20
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 55,000 MILES
I have a 2003 Ford Ranger Xlt Fx4 and my clutch pedal was feeling a little weak so I checked the fluid. It was alittle low so I added some and now I have no clutch at all and can't find a bleeder valve on the line anywhere. Where would I locate it?
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
It will be located near the bell housing where the slave cylinder is.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HYPNOTIX_20
  • MEMBER
My slave cylinder is located inside my transmission case though. I finally located the bleeder valve and have used an entire bottle of fluid bleeding it and have a decent pedal but I still can't put the trunk into gear. Am I missing something?
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ICEMAN240
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD RANGER
  • 142,000 MILES
Every time it gets cold out my clutch stopps working right. The pedal gets a lot of slack and will not disenge the clutch. I have to start it in gear and it will not shift right. There is some air getting in to the line.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Check the master for any signs of leaking under the rubber boot where the push pod enters, if there is any signs of fluid there or the slave replace them.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ICEMAN240
  • MEMBER
I did have to add fluid. Ican not find a leak but the slave sleeve is inside the bell housing. Also there isn't a push rod at the master.I am grasping at straws here. Thanks for your help.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Check master cylinder, there is a rod that attaches to the pedal, check under the rubber boot see pic for view.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MATTSMOM03
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD RANGER
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 250,000 MILES
(as a side note, all work has been done by my friend not me)
I recently had to replace my 5 speed manual transmission. Now I cannot get the clutch to disengage. At first we Had issues bleeding the clutch. Even tried to burp the line to get any excess air out. We finally got good compression. The slave has also been replaced during of this. (Both master and slave were replaced less than 2 years ago) at this time we are at a standstill trying to figure out what to do next. He is a tow truck driver and doesnt get much time to work on it. Everything I've researched points to the TO or master and slave again. Please help! Been without my truck since first week of August! Desperately wanting to get her back on the road.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Try bleeding it first the way in pic.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MATTSMOM03
  • MEMBER
Thanks. I checked with my friend and he has tried this many times.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If it's a rubber line then the line may be collapsing and not letting fluid back to master. Or check valve in master is bad.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PATRUCK
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD RANGER
The slave cylinder is not responding to bleeding procedure. No matter how long you pump the peddle there 's no pressure build up. It worked ok before the clutch was replaced, but now it acts like it has a vapor lock. Can you help figure out my next move please?
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
BLEEDING procedure
1. Using Disconnect Tool (T88T-70522-A), disconnect quick connect coupler. Clean area around reservoir cap. Fill reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Using small screwdriver, depress internal mechanism of male quick connect coupling to open valve. Slowly depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. Release internal mechanism of coupling to close valve. Repeat procedure 4 times.

2. Close reservoir and reconnect coupling. Rapidly depress clutch pedal 5-10 times and wait 1-3 minutes. Repeat procedure 3 additional times. Place hose on bleeder screw to prevent brake fluid from entering bellhousing. Loosen bleeder screw.

3. Place light pressure on clutch pedal and open bleeder screw. Maintain pressure until pedal contacts floor. Close bleeder screw while pedal is fully depressed. DO NOT allow pedal to return before bleeder screw is fully closed. Recheck fluid level. Apply 27-44 lbs. (12-20 kg) of force to clutch pedal while tightening bleed screw.

4. Test system operation by starting vehicle, depressing clutch and placing gearshift lever in Reverse. Depress clutch pedal to within 1/2" (13 mm) of floor. If grinding noise is heard, check for air in system. Repeat bleeding procedure if necessary.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRILIANT
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD RANGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 90,000 MILES
Installed new Clutch Master Cylinder, attempted to bleed it while installed (did not bench bleed) have gone thru roughly a quart of dot3 brake fluid attempting to bleed it, no luck. Using the bleed valve on the transmission, just aft of the bell housing. Or actually in the bellhousing, it sticks out on the drivers side, just forward and above the fluid line attached to the slave cylinder. No leaks that are discernible, but clutch doesn't seem to want to bleed enough to even disengage the clutch. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
With reservoir and hydraulic line attached to master cylinder, lightly clamp reservoir in a vise.
Fill reservoir. Hold master cylinder vertically below reservoir.
Ensure clutch line quick connect is below master cylinder.
Using a small screwdriver, depress internal mechanism of male quick connect coupling to open valve.
Pump and hold master cylinder push rod.
Close quick connect valve.
Release master cylinder push rod.
Fill reservoir.
Repeat this step 9 times.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ACPTAGSLABELS
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD RANGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 162,000 MILES
Replaced clutch and the slave, still have no clutch, bled, there must be air in line how do I bleed the master clutch, I shall donate although I cannot right now, and I thank you for your help.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCHRIMPIEMAN
  • MEMBER
Believe me, bleeding the hydraulic clutch line is a nuisance project. Can take forever to get the air out.

If your clutch pedal seems to have excessive play, you likely still have air in the system, no matter how diligently you've bled the line.

In my opinion, the trouble with bleeding the line is at the master cylinder. When installed to the firewall, the outlet hose from the master cylinder is at a lower level than a portion of the cast-iron housing, in which case there is always a bubble of air trapped on the top-tip of the cast housing.

I've had moderate luck removing the master cylinder from the firewall, turning the unit to some way that the orientation is twisted, and then start pumping away at the rod. The twisting causes the air bubble to work itself into the hose, and then finally out the slave cylinder bleeder valve. Then you'll have a firm pedal.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JESSEKISHEN
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 115,000 MILES
I tried to bleed my clutch and no matter how much pressure I put into the line I could not get fluid to come out of the bleeder valve. Fluid would come out of the slave cylinder input/supply line fitting. So it appears that it s just not passing through the slave cylinder, if it s even getting that far. I have heard there s a safety valve of some sort at the end of the supply line that goes into the slave cylinder that I need to reopen since I just did a motor swap and it shuts itself to keep the line closed. Any help would be appreciated.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
There is no safety valve in the line for the clutch, for the brakes yes but not the clutch. Remove the bleeder screw from the slave cylinder and see if it is plugged. If the system bled down while it was apart you will likely need to bench bleed the master cylinder by removing it. The way it mounts in the truck doesn't let the air travel out easily. The picture shows how to bleed it. Then be sure fluid is getting to the slave under pressure.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 10:15 AM (Merged)

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