1997 Ford Ranger Clutch

Tiny
COOLAUTOCARE
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 86,907 MILES
Hi I did some modification on 97 ranger converting from automatic to manual using all ford parts form another ford truck. Except I bought new clutch kit including master and scave cylinder. Problem is I bleed it a hundred times but can seem to get enough clutch.
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Sunday, January 31st, 2010 AT 6:03 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi coolautocare,

Thank you for the donation.

After bleeding, was there any signs of air trapped in system?
Did you check the pedal to master cylinder push rod clearance?
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Sunday, January 31st, 2010 AT 6:49 AM
Tiny
COOLAUTOCARE
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There seem to be no air in the system, there is any way I see that the clutch can be adjusted. But when I presss the clutch you can feel it starts to presure about half way down.
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Monday, February 1st, 2010 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
COOLAUTOCARE
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I did compare the measurment between the old rod and the new one and it is the same
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Monday, February 1st, 2010 AT 5:56 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Should not be a fault with the hydraulic system.

Comparing the length of the push rod is not the correct way. You need to check the free travel before the push rod starts pushing the master cylinder poistons. If it is too far, the travel would be low. If the clutch is rather new, it would be rather low.

Are you able to shift into gears? If yes, how far does it release before the clutch starts to catch?
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Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010 AT 6:03 AM
Tiny
COOLAUTOCARE
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No Sir I cannot shif into any gear when the engine is start. How ever if I start the vehicle in gear while pressing the clutch the vehicle tryes to move a little.
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Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Do you understand how to check/adjust the clutch pedal to master cylinder free travel?
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010 AT 8:22 AM
Tiny
COOLAUTOCARE
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To be onest, no I dont have any experience the these types of clutch.
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010 AT 11:12 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Ok, I willl try to describe it as best as I can.

The free travel means the amount of clearance before the push rod pushes on the master cylinder piston. If it requires the clutch pedal to travel far before it pushes on the master cylinder piston, the clutch pedal would be verly low and you would not get sufficient movement of the clutch fork to release the clutch completely.

Loosen the push rod lock nut and lengthen push rod by turning it out until a slight resistance is felt, indicating there is no free travel of the push rod. Turn the push rod back 1/2 a turn to get the free travel and relock the locking nut. Retry if the clutch works.

If your clutch master cylinder is not equipped with any adjustment for the push rod, then you need to check the pedal height.
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010 AT 11:19 AM
Tiny
COOLAUTOCARE
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The reason I said I did nt have any experience with these type of clutch is because it doesnt have any adjustment and it has the internal slave cylinder.
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Thursday, February 4th, 2010 AT 5:02 AM
Tiny
COOLAUTOCARE
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Any sugestion yet?
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Friday, February 5th, 2010 AT 3:29 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Sorry for the delay.

Did you check the pedal height?

Are the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder of the correct type and size?
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Friday, February 5th, 2010 AT 7:10 AM
Tiny
COOLAUTOCARE
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Its a orignal pedel from a ranger and the height is ok
Yes it looks the same as the old one.
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Friday, February 5th, 2010 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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The size of the master cylinder should be embossed on the master cylinder and if it is a smaller size, which would vary slightly, it would require more movement to move the clutch fork.

Apart from that I can't hink of any other possible causes of insufficient clutch fork movement.
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Friday, February 5th, 2010 AT 11:04 AM

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