1996 Ford Ranger 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 254k miles
Thank you for viewing my question and helping me. I have just replaced a clutch in my 96 Ford Ranger. The issue was that the truck would grind gears going into any gear. We'd had problems before with fluid loss somewhere between the master and slave cylinder. No repairs done. Just kept it full. Anyhow lately the grinding started. We within the last few days have changed the clutch and throwout bearing and surfaced the flywheel which all went smooth. We had a really difficult time reconnecting the quick disconnect for the line from the master to slave. Now the truck will not go into any gear. Have bled the system repeatedly and still no change. When you look through the hole at the clutch pack turning you can see that the travel of the throwout bearing is only about half an inch when the pedal is depressed. I am thinking Master Cylinder. We did not change either master or slave.
You are on the right track
only I would find the leak 1st and take care of it
May, 21, 2008 AT 2:05 PM
Which one is going to be my best guess for the culprit who is not performing its duty? The master or the slave? Which one builds the pressure to push the throwout bearing? I am assuming the master builds the pressure from the pedal activity and then forces the pressure into the slave engaging the throwout?
May, 21, 2008 AT 4:37 PM
Do you have an external or internal slave cylinder
look for fluid leaks
its very important to do so
before replacing any
May, 21, 2008 AT 7:57 PM
I went ahead and changed the master cylinder. We bled the system. We ran the line, no leaks. The clutch pedal became stiffer but it wasn't a clutch engagement stiffness. It was more of a pressure build up stiffness. Going to pull the tranny again and change the slave cylinder.
May, 21, 2008 AT 8:23 PM
U didn't mention any thing about the pressure plate if it was replaced or not
if it was not replaced this is the time to do so
May, 23, 2008 AT 5:27 PM
I was able to replace the clutch with an entire clutch kit. Replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder. The truck will start and shift but it has to be forced into gear. There must be something I am doing wrong in the bleeding. I have bled this thing over and over again and it still wont disengage properly to shift gears. Please help.
May, 24, 2008 AT 5:42 AM
Remove rubber plug from inspection port in tranny bell housing
using rear edge of black plastic retainer as an indicator take a reading with the clutch pedal fully released
then fully depress the clutch and take another measurement
the difference between the 2 readings is total bearing travel
if bearing travel is greater than (0.3" 7.5 mm )its pressure plate and or tranny issue
if bearing travel less than (0.3" 7.5mm)its hydraulic issue
if need more bleeding try this
disconnect the slave from line at the coupling
use your hand to pump the clutch
build up pressure a bit
using a screwdriver open valve of male coupling ,slowly depress clutch pedal to floor and hold
remove screwdriver to close valve ,and release clutch pedal
ensure reservoir is full
repeat this step until clutch pedal no longer spongy
ensure reservoir is full place cover back
rapidly depress clutch 5 to 10 times and wait 1-3 minutes and then repeat same step
loosen bleeder screw
place light pressure and open bleeder screw ,maintain pressure until pedal contacts floor close bleeder check fluid
and repeat if needed
May, 24, 2008 AT 10:51 PM
The master cylinder bleed did the trick. It's still a little tight but moves in smooth. Thank you so much for your patience in this matter.
May, 25, 2008 AT 8:24 PM
Drive it for a day or two and see if it will improve
and maybe try to bleed the slave
May, 26, 2008 AT 11:23 PM
I hadn't driven the truck since we've done all of these repairs. The truck is actually my nephews. He drove me to the store today and realized the truck shudders really bad once we hit 5th gear. Now the entire clutch system is brand new. What can this be?