Change the CAM position sensor?

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
How are you making out?

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEITHSTURF
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 123,000 MILES
I have giving my truck a compete tune up, as well as replaced the cam sensor. The scanner before said that it was a misfire and 1 and 4 so that lead to the tune up and coil pack change. Now it says that it is running lean-rich on bank one. I am about to pull my hair out this can not be that hard. What am I missing!

Thanks Keith
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
You may have a vacuum leak, get a can of spray gumout, spray the vac lines and maniflod area, when the idle changes, youve found the leak! You want the engine running and spray on the outside but do direct the stream onto the hoses, if it is a vacuum leak, the engine idle will change speed, then you have detected a leak, repair the vacuum leak and see how it runs!
On your truck if it has the plastic intake manifold, pay particular attention to the seams. The gasket between the two halfs starts to leak after a while. May need a new manifold.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
I got the Tool, rented it from AutoZone ($25.00). Getting ready to go do it now. But have another concern. The original problem that I was attacking was replacing my Fuel Injectors. Okay now the one that I bought from Amazon. State that they are for my vehicle 2000 Ford F150 4.2 v6 2wd. However they are much fatter then the ones that I removed, the old ones seated down in the holes, these ones do not. The bottom o-ring on the injectors can be seen as they do sit on the top of the holes in the intake manifold and the fuel rail does seat down properly on top of them but the rail is the only thing keeping them down. If rail was to be lifted off the injectors would just fall cause they are not going down inside the lower intake manifold. If that makes sense? I put the key in on position and got no leaks anywhere but worried that maybe reason for no leaks may be due to no to having enough fuel pressure built up. As prior to doing all this work I was not getting proper fuel pressure readings at all. What do you think I should do? The injectors should
go down inside the holes right? Just leaving out the top part for harness to connect to?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
The new injectors that I am putting in are YR3E-A6A.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Take that back they are YR3E-A4A.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
What is the number off the old injectors?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2000,f-150,4.2l+v6,1362473,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Okay this is where I am at. I pulled the Fuel rail back off to check the seating of the Injectors and the rail itself did push them down a bit, the bottom tips of each one are in the holes. Now on the Synchronizer I rented the tools there were 1black, 1 yellow, 1 gray and I think 1blue. Anyways I used the Gray. This is all I did though please tell me if I need to do more or if it is Good. Okay I removed the camshaft positioning sensor and tried each color tool, not any of them went on it so I put the sensor back on and then I "loosened " the large bolt and Washer and just turn the whole Synchro and housing slightly until I got one of the tools to fit down on it properly (which was the Gray one. I then tightened up the big bolt and put the sensor back on it.. I never attempted at all to lift the Synchronizer out. So is that okay now? Do I need to do anything more to it? Am I now TDC?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
The top dead center is from the engine. You need to remove number 1 cylinder and hand turn the motor until the piston is at top dead center. You have to remove the spark plug to do this.

You may be good if the gear did not come off the cam gear.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Okay, so what you're saying is what I did with the tool didn't really do anything that I need to still turn the crank by hand and take out the number one spark plug and make it a go to top dead center on the engine and then I need to remove the EGR again and all that stuff again and the crankshaft position sensor and time the synchronizer again unseeing the tool? Right? Now can I do it like I did before by just moving it or do I have to literally cut out the synchronizer to do it I'm afraid I'm going to lift it off the oil pump? And as far as a tool goes long as I get one of them to fit on there like it supposed to would that be okay or does it have to be specific color no one?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
What I meant to say above was that do I need to pull out the synchronizer not cut out to synchronizer or can I just move the whole housing by listening to big nut and bolt until one of the tools fit?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Turn it by hand until it is at top dead center.

Then remove the cam sensor and check the position of the synchronizer. See if the position is correct before doing anything else.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 5:53 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links